Stripping... and not in a good way
#1
Stripping... and not in a good way
Hi Guys
I have a Givi rack on my Superhawk and have taken it off and put it back on quite a bit. Many more times than I should have... (to look cool on weekends I guess)
Anyways, during the last fitment of the rack i noticed that the rear left hand foot peg bolt kept spinning round and round... NOT good...
There is now a clean hole where the thread in the sub frame used to be
Now, with the damage done, I turn to you kind folks for advice.
Has this happened to anyone on this forum?
I am tempted to just drill a hole straight through the stripped foot peg nut out the other side of the sub frame, put a nut and bolt straight through and be done with it.
I am however scared of weakening the sub frame as I do enjoy loading the bike with luggage and going for extended trips... even 2-up
Any thoughts gents?
PS: see attached pic of Givi culprit
I have a Givi rack on my Superhawk and have taken it off and put it back on quite a bit. Many more times than I should have... (to look cool on weekends I guess)
Anyways, during the last fitment of the rack i noticed that the rear left hand foot peg bolt kept spinning round and round... NOT good...
There is now a clean hole where the thread in the sub frame used to be
Now, with the damage done, I turn to you kind folks for advice.
Has this happened to anyone on this forum?
I am tempted to just drill a hole straight through the stripped foot peg nut out the other side of the sub frame, put a nut and bolt straight through and be done with it.
I am however scared of weakening the sub frame as I do enjoy loading the bike with luggage and going for extended trips... even 2-up
Any thoughts gents?
PS: see attached pic of Givi culprit
#3
helicoil,helicoil insert,helicoil inserts,helicoil kit, helicoil tap, heli-coil, helicoil tools
Helicoils or Rivnuts may work.
Alternately, you can use a bolt, nut, and crush tube. A crush tube (fits inside the clean hole) will be made of steel and the same thickness as the subframe. That way, when you crank down the bolt/nut, they load on the ends of the steel cylinder and won't bend or squash your aluminum subframe.
Helicoils or Rivnuts may work.
Alternately, you can use a bolt, nut, and crush tube. A crush tube (fits inside the clean hole) will be made of steel and the same thickness as the subframe. That way, when you crank down the bolt/nut, they load on the ends of the steel cylinder and won't bend or squash your aluminum subframe.
#4
Stainless steel thread insert coil (like a helicoil) or a solid thread repair bushing( like a Keysert) is a simple and quick fix for what you describe. It also will leave steel threads for the steel fastener vs the aluminum threads you were working with.
#5
Wish I could man. I am far far away on a little island called Cyprus working my *** off.
But I return to South Africa in a week. By which time I hope to have a arsenal of repair ideas to through at the ugly bastard of a problem.
So you can say I am "doing my homework" in the meantime.
Will post pics of the repair when I tackle it.
But I return to South Africa in a week. By which time I hope to have a arsenal of repair ideas to through at the ugly bastard of a problem.
So you can say I am "doing my homework" in the meantime.
Will post pics of the repair when I tackle it.
#6
Helicoils! Of course...
Thanks for that guys. But is the stock "welded on nut" of the Hawk beefy enough to accomodate the tapping of a larger size thread to suit a helicoil?
It probobly only needs to go to the next size up like from M8 to M10?
Thanks for that guys. But is the stock "welded on nut" of the Hawk beefy enough to accomodate the tapping of a larger size thread to suit a helicoil?
It probobly only needs to go to the next size up like from M8 to M10?
#7
Not real clear on which position you are talking about that has stripped threads.
"stripped foot peg nut out the other side of the sub frame,"
If so, then yes, there is enough material in that welded "nut" to drill out for a M8 thread repair coil or thread repair bushing.
In example the Helicoil M8x1.25 thread repair coil requires a hole in the damaged threaded item to be drilled using a 8.3mm drill (or fractional 21/64), then a special tap sized for the thread repair coil is used (M8x1.25 STI), the M8 repair coil threaded in, and ,, BAM, done you now have M8x1.25 stainless steel threads in that hole ready to fit your mount to again.
http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5546-...cal+M8x1.25%2C
Last edited by E.Marquez; 06-16-2014 at 11:15 AM.
#8
Hi Marquez,
Thanks for the pic! Yes its one of those. Specifically the one in yellow i marked out in the pic.
I wanted to drill that one straight through and fit a bolt and nut, but like I said... scared to weaken the subframe.
I think the helicoils are the perfect solution and will provide years of fuss free Givi removal!
Even if i manage to fowl a helicoil, just replace it with another one! Brilliant.
Thanks guys!
Thanks for the pic! Yes its one of those. Specifically the one in yellow i marked out in the pic.
I wanted to drill that one straight through and fit a bolt and nut, but like I said... scared to weaken the subframe.
I think the helicoils are the perfect solution and will provide years of fuss free Givi removal!
Even if i manage to fowl a helicoil, just replace it with another one! Brilliant.
Thanks guys!
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