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No spark at front or rear spark plugs.

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Old 11-14-2014, 07:44 PM
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No spark at front or rear spark plugs.

Haven't ridden my bike for a while as I have slowly been doing some mods, I did the cbr600rr stick coil mod & also replaced the r/r with mosfet r/r.


Went to start the bike the other day & it wouldn't start, so I got some fresh gas & new spark plugs, still wouldn't start, pulled the plugs & discovered there was no spark. Headlight, taillight, dash & horn all work & it is trying to crank over, I have a lithium battery that is showing 13-13.4 volts on a multimeter, the fuses all look ok.


I don't know that much about electrics, but I do have a multimeter, can any one give me some help. Have I messed up some how with either the cbr600 stick coils or r/r, both mods seemed to be basically plug & play.


it is a 2002 firestorm.
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Old 11-14-2014, 08:22 PM
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Kill switch?
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Old 11-14-2014, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by thetophatflash
Kill switch?

Kill switch was in correct position,


But I will unscrew & have a look inside.


Thanks for reply.
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Old 11-15-2014, 01:44 PM
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Sidestand switch?

If the switch is bad, the bike thinks the sidestand (kickstand) is down and the ignition gets cut. This has happened to me and a few others. It's easy to check with a multimeter.

So, did this happen right after installing the stick coils and R/R? Or, was the bike running aftering installing them and it just stopped working now?

Last edited by CruxGNZ; 11-15-2014 at 01:47 PM.
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Old 11-15-2014, 06:00 PM
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Thanks for the reply CruxGNZ,


Ok, first I tested sidestand with bike in neutral & sidestand down, engine cranks.
Then bike in 1st gear with sidestand down, engine will not crank.


Then I unplugged sidestand wire & inserted multimeter probs here,


6e7a8319-bbfc-4395-b27f-5a63afd141c2.png?t=1416100793
Set multimeter to Diode testing position, the multimeter display did not change from 1, I tried several times & also swapped positions. I searched "how to test sidestand with multimeter" , the web site said "you should get between .3-.7 vdc.to just test the switch".


Then I set multimeter to ohms 200, the same thing happened, the display did not change from 1, again I tried several times & swapped positions. Same web site also said "your looking for as close to 0 as possible".


Have I tested correctly ? If so, what next ?
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Old 11-15-2014, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by CruxGNZ

So, did this happen right after installing the stick coils and R/R? Or, was the bike running aftering installing them and it just stopped working now?


Yes, after installing stick coils, R/R.
I haven't ridden the bike since stick coil, R/R mods.
I have not ridden bike for around maybe 4 months, I was slowly doing some mods over winter & now the weather is improving decided to go for a ride & bike wouldn't start.
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Old 11-15-2014, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by hondavtr1000sp2
Thanks for the reply CruxGNZ,


Ok, first I tested sidestand with bike in neutral & sidestand down, engine cranks.
Then bike in 1st gear with sidestand down, engine will not crank.


Then I unplugged sidestand wire & inserted multimeter probs here,



Set multimeter to Diode testing position, the multimeter display did not change from 1 sidestand down, 000 with sidestand up I tried several times & also swapped positions. I searched "how to test sidestand with multimeter" , the web site said "you should get between .3-.7 vdc.to just test the switch".


Then I set multimeter to ohms 200, the same thing happened, the display did not change from 1, again I tried several times & swapped positions. Same web site also said "your looking for as close to 0 as possible".


Have I tested correctly ? If so, what next ?

For some reason I can not edit this post , so I have added to this Quote.
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Old 11-16-2014, 03:29 AM
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Originally Posted by hondavtr1000sp2
For some reason I can not edit this post , so I have added to this Quote.
You are simply looking for continuity, no voltage check, no diode check.
Put meter in auto range if it has it or a low scale and Ohms.

Depending on what year bike you have you will have a 3 wire plug or 2 wire plug.

1998-2000 has 3 wire
Extended you should have continuity between Y/Bl and G
Retracted you should have continuity between G/W and G

2001 and on has 2 wire
Extended you should have no continuity between G/W and G
Retracted you should have continuity between G/W and G
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Old 11-16-2014, 09:08 AM
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Thanks Erik.

sp2, just out of curiosity, how did you test spark?
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Old 11-16-2014, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by E.Marquez
You are simply looking for continuity, no voltage check, no diode check.
Put meter in auto range if it has it or a low scale and Ohms.

Depending on what year bike you have you will have a 3 wire plug or 2 wire plug.

1998-2000 has 3 wire
Extended you should have continuity between Y/Bl and G
Retracted you should have continuity between G/W and G

2001 and on has 2 wire
Extended you should have no continuity between G/W and G
Retracted you should have continuity between G/W and G

Thanks for the reply E.Marquez ,
This is my multimeter, I set it at 200 Ohms, (see red arrow)


27311f4b-7554-469b-b3cc-a40cab93aaeb.jpg?t=1416171572


It is a 2002 Firestorm, 2 plug,
Sidestand extended the display stayed showing 1 & did not change.
Sidestand retracted the display changed from 1 to 00.0
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Old 11-16-2014, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by CruxGNZ
Thanks Erik.

sp2, just out of curiosity, how did you test spark?

CruxGNZ I tested spark by removing the stick coil from spark plug, then placing spark plug in coil & holding spark plug against engine block or frame & then pressing start button while looking for spark at end of spark plug.
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Old 11-16-2014, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by hondavtr1000sp2
Thanks for the reply E.Marquez ,
This is my multimeter, I set it at 200 Ohms, (see red arrow)


It is a 2002 Firestorm, 2 plug,
Sidestand extended the display stayed showing 1 & did not change.
Sidestand retracted the display changed from 1 to 00.0
1 means over range for the 200 ohm setting or no connection and this is the correct value for your side stand position

00.0 means there is a connection but no resistance in the wires also correct for the stand position.

So ur sidestand switch seems OK just start with what you have changed last

Unplug the rr and try starting again if still no good check wiring to stick coils if u have required voltage ok then check coils.
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Old 11-16-2014, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by sjscicluna
1 means over range for the 200 ohm setting or no connection and this is the correct value for your side stand position

00.0 means there is a connection but no resistance in the wires also correct for the stand position.

So ur sidestand switch seems OK just start with what you have changed last

Unplug the rr and try starting again if still no good check wiring to stick coils if u have required voltage ok then check coils.

Thank you for helping sjscicluna,
I unplugged r/r & tried starting, no spark.
Not sure how to check wiring to stick coils ,
I did try this, set multimeter to Ohms 200, placed one probe onto green vtr wire where coil plugs into (see below pic) other probe onto negative battery post & got display 00.0 , then placed one probe on the other vtr wire where coil plugs into & other probe onto positive battery post & display stayed on 1, did not change, I did this for both plugs & got the same results for both plugs.


28a35720-c834-40cd-ab38-0c5d80b5375c.jpg?t=1416203666


This is my stick coil mod, green vtr wire to black cbr wire & striped wires together,


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Last edited by hondavtr1000sp2; 11-16-2014 at 10:21 PM.
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Old 11-16-2014, 10:26 PM
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This was the new R/R,


Not sure how I could mess it up,
plug connectors together, black to black plugs,
grey to grey plugs,
red wire to positive battery post,
black wire to negative battery post,
connect remaining 3 R/R yellow wires to old vtr yellow wires after cutting off old r/r.


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Last edited by hondavtr1000sp2; 11-16-2014 at 11:06 PM.
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Old 11-16-2014, 10:48 PM
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Tested cbr stick coil,


Primary side of coil, set multimeter to Ohm 200, display was 1.3


Secondary side of coil, set multimeter to Ohm 20k, display was 13.40
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Old 11-17-2014, 06:48 PM
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Called the bike wreckers to see if they had CONVERTER UNIT, C.D.I. & MODULE, IGNITION CONTROL (CDI) & how much, they said converter unit $150, and ignition unit would be $850 as I would also need the key with chip for the HISS & ignition switch !


They also said I should check the HISS for fault, any one know how I would check the HISS.


Should I buy the converter unit ?
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Old 11-17-2014, 09:07 PM
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Thanks to all that were trying to help,


I think I solved the problem, I unplugged the HISS & plugged it back in, then checked for spark by placing screw driver in coil & holding screw driver against engine & got spark !


Then battery went flat, I have put battery on charge.


But it looks like a bad connection in the HISS wire/plug.
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