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rivet removal

Old 10-16-2012, 04:32 PM
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rivet removal

Hello all. I have a seemingly simple problem that I do not know how to approach. I am involved with re packing my carbon fiber two bros exhaust cans. I bought the packing kit from 2 bros. it came with packing, new rivets and drill bit. I used the drill bit on the rivets but the damn things didn't pop off, the bit is too small. Now I have the rivet heads spinning when I try to use a larger bit and they cannot be pulled out. My question is, is there a simple, pain free method for removing rivets that haven't been drilled out properly? I tried to use a larger bit to remove the total head but that things are spinning so I can't get any purchase and I don't want to make the holes larger than they are if I can help it. Ideas?
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:44 PM
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Wicky View Post
I think these rivets are stainless. I suppose I could use a dremel but I don't want to ruin the finish on the carbon fiber. If this were metal I was removing a rivet from I would be a lot more aggressive. I can't press too hard because I'm afraid I'll crack the carbon fiber when I push it out of round.
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by twist View Post
I think these rivets are stainless. I suppose I could use a dremel but I don't want to ruin the finish on the carbon fiber. If this were metal I was removing a rivet from I would be a lot more aggressive. I can't press too hard because I'm afraid I'll crack the carbon fiber when I push it out of round.
yeah, that's a tough one. Did you look at their website to see if they had any advice?

check this out........

Last edited by nath981; 10-16-2012 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 10-16-2012, 05:48 PM
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Dremel and the sanding drum.
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Old 10-16-2012, 06:22 PM
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I just did this same job. You should try different sized bits. You can use one bigger than you need if you are careful to stop before you hit the carbon.
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Old 10-16-2012, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73 View Post
I just did this same job. You should try different sized bits. You can use one bigger than you need if you are careful to stop before you hit the carbon.
this was my solution, too but the rivets just spin and I cn't get a purchase on 'em. I did find limited success in drilling out the rivet slightly off center. This is going to be a PITA, isn't it? And it was supposed to be a 30 minute job.
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Old 10-16-2012, 10:02 PM
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Yeah I had to do it twice. I thought I would try stainless steel wool for durability but it turned out WAY too loud so had to redo it. Protect you arms though cuz that stuff makes you itch for a week.

Did you drill the center out of all of them?
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Old 10-17-2012, 07:03 AM
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As zman said, dremel is an easy way. If dremel is not available, use a larger bit, and put your drill at a 45° angle. This will prevent the head from
spinning out of control, and allow you to gently grind away at it.

A little patience is need here in order not to brake the carbon. We don't want another ZG screen thing happening again now do we ?



BTW, packing these things is a bitch. I just did my Yosh's a few weeks ago. If you need help, just ring me. Good Luck
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Old 10-17-2012, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Jack Flash View Post
As zman said, dremel is an easy way. If dremel is not available, use a larger bit, and put your drill at a 45° angle. This will prevent the head from
spinning out of control, and allow you to gently grind away at it.

A little patience is need here in order not to brake the carbon. We don't want another ZG screen thing happening again now do we ?



BTW, packing these things is a bitch. I just did my Yosh's a few weeks ago. If you need help, just ring me. Good Luck
Oh, you are a funny one! Lets not mention the ZG screen episode for a while.
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Old 10-17-2012, 02:10 PM
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Got it! I figured out an amazing high tech method for removing rivets that are spinning. I plan to market this system and make a million dollars! Lucky for me I discovered it! TAPE. I put a piece of tape, formula is very secret, of course, and it held the rivet long enough to finish drilling it out! Job done! Mufflers are still loud tho. Now on to another adventure. I am the shade tree mechanic armed with screwdriver and channel locks!
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Old 10-17-2012, 05:18 PM
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good thinkin twist! glad it worked well and we'll remember your secret recipe>
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Old 10-18-2012, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by nath981 View Post
good thinkin twist! glad it worked well and we'll remember your secret recipe>
I used blue painters tape. I have a variety of tape ending with a very sticky red tape used on stucco. Then there is the standard, duct tape! Keep that with me on every trip!
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:08 PM
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duct tape and plastic ties can be lifesavers. We use to carry bailing wire to keep from loosing **** off those vibrating English bikes back in the 60-70s, and we used it often too. When i got a new kawasaki triple in 72, I couldn't believe I didn't need to carry wire anymore.
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Old 10-18-2012, 05:51 PM
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10-18-12 SHF Can Repack How-To Post

Originally Posted by greenwilliam697 View Post
Yeah I had to do it twice. I thought I would try stainless steel wool for durability but it turned out WAY too loud so had to redo it.
SS wool WITH fiberglass or better, ceramic insulation (i.e., Unifrax “FiberFrax”, I can sell it at cost to those interested if I have dimensions) used in HT apps.

I don't follow Yoshimura's loose pack from end method. 2bros sells stuff to roll around, and that's what I do. Just don't roll too tight over the SS wool but not too loose either. Use some safety wire to wrap it neatly and it slides in easier. Some use masking tape but it stinks when it burns and may “Bleed burn” though to the surface of carbon and Ti sleeves.

Originally Posted by twist View Post
I used blue painters tape. I have a variety of tape ending with a very sticky red tape used on stucco. Then there is the standard, duct tape! Keep that with me on every trip!
I was going to say tape and "superglue" works if you can get under the rivet with a very small screwdriver; "mask" around the rivet head first with blue painters tape as close as you can & then with petroleum jelly (Vaseline) BEFORE applying superglue (Cyanoacrylate).

I use aluminum 1/8” or 5/32” dia. (as needed) Dome (head) with a .376~.500” grip (available at Pep Boys, etc. as by Rivet-Tite (PN 47865 and 47873). A lot easier to install and drill out and “softer” on sleeves; never had one fail versus PITA SS rivets.

Last edited by skokievtr; 10-18-2012 at 05:53 PM.
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Old 10-18-2012, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by skokievtr View Post
SS wool WITH fiberglass or better, ceramic insulation (i.e., Unifrax “FiberFrax”, I can sell it at cost to those interested if I have dimensions) used in HT apps.

I don't follow Yoshimura's loose pack from end method. 2bros sells stuff to roll around, and that's what I do. Just don't roll too tight over the SS wool but not too loose either. Use some safety wire to wrap it neatly and it slides in easier. Some use masking tape but it stinks when it burns and may “Bleed burn” though to the surface of carbon and Ti sleeves.



I was going to say tape and "superglue" works if you can get under the rivet with a very small screwdriver; "mask" around the rivet head first with blue painters tape as close as you can & then with petroleum jelly (Vaseline) BEFORE applying superglue (Cyanoacrylate).

I use aluminum 1/8” or 5/32” dia. (as needed) Dome (head) with a .376~.500” grip (available at Pep Boys, etc. as by Rivet-Tite (PN 47865 and 47873). A lot easier to install and drill out and “softer” on sleeves; never had one fail versus PITA SS rivets.
sounds like you have the dope! Great techniques for removal. Wiring the wire instead of tape is a great idea, wish Ida thought of that one. My 2bros need to have both end cap rivets and logo rivets removed to get the baffle out. PITA. Didn't know about the wool. Q: why the petroleum jelly? Cost of the fiberfax you can get? I might be interested.
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by twist View Post
sounds like you have the dope! Great techniques for removal. Wiring the wire instead of tape is a great idea, wish Ida thought of that one. My 2bros need to have both end cap rivets and logo rivets removed to get the baffle out. PITA. Didn't know about the wool. Q: why the petroleum jelly? Cost of the fiberfax you can get? I might be interested.
Drill out the 2bros logo plate rivets and reinstall the rivets without the logo plates, and switch cans to opposite sides = OEM looking cans.

SS wool can usually be reused and makes the packing last twice as long; it may be available a local suppliers. The petroleum jelly keeps the superglue from staining the can sleeves.

Unifrax “FiberFrax” for both sides (I need to know exact 2Bros model and approximate length and circumference) should be about $42 plus shipping, which should be cheap. FiberFrax actually does not burn or get blown out (when used with SS wool), and lasts3 times as long as fiberglass. I've actually cleaned and reinstalled used FiberFrax.
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Old 10-19-2012, 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by skokievtr View Post
Drill out the 2bros logo plate rivets and reinstall the rivets without the logo plates, and switch cans to opposite sides = OEM looking cans.

SS wool can usually be reused and makes the packing last twice as long; it may be available a local suppliers. The petroleum jelly keeps the superglue from staining the can sleeves.

Unifrax “FiberFrax” for both sides (I need to know exact 2Bros model and approximate length and circumference) should be about $42 plus shipping, which should be cheap. FiberFrax actually does not burn or get blown out (when used with SS wool), and lasts3 times as long as fiberglass. I've actually cleaned and reinstalled used FiberFrax.
Not too sure of the model. I know they are C4 but don't know how old they are. Maybe 2006 or so. End caps are chrome steel and the exhaust outlet is a short piece of tubing that ends turning down slightly.
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Old 10-20-2012, 02:38 PM
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2Bros C-4

Originally Posted by twist View Post
Not too sure of the model. I know they are C4 but don't know how old they are. Maybe 2006 or so. End caps are chrome steel and the exhaust outlet is a short piece of tubing that ends turning down slightly.
Does it look like this with die-cast aluminum inlet & outlet and round canister? The C-4 is 4.5" in diameter and I need length. Baffle core should be 2.25" in diameter.

Go see: Atv Snow Plows, Atv Plow, Motorcycle Tires, Avon, Michelin, Dunlop, HJC Helmets - Two Brothers Racing
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Old 10-20-2012, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by skokievtr View Post
Does it look like this with die-cast aluminum inlet & outlet and round canister? The C-4 is 4.5" in diameter and I need length. Baffle core should be 2.25" in diameter.

Go see: Atv Snow Plows, Atv Plow, Motorcycle Tires, Avon, Michelin, Dunlop, HJC Helmets - Two Brothers Racing
nope, I'll send a pic with dims. Round carbon fiber can, chrome steel ends, logo riveted on. I talked with the 2bros rep and he said this is a old model.

Honda VTR1000 Superhawk Two Brothers Carbon Fiber Slip on Exhaust Mufflers VTR | eBay

hope this works!
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