it won't?

 

Thanks for the replies.

The 12mm allen key for the mid mounting adjustor bolt is not really necessary, you can spin it out with your finger, just beware of the sharp ends.

After fiddling around with it more, I now know why the manual says to remove the airbox and carbs. I don't have pics for this step but, the reserve coolant tank is mounted onto the frame and though you can unbolt it from 1 side, it is hooked into the frame from the other. You will have to remove the carb, followed by the thermostat to remove the tank.

Another dumb packaging idea I discovered, the choke is connected to the carb, but is placed below the thermostat. A lot of shoving and pulling and cursing will be required to remove it. Next time, I'm remounting it elsewhere.

It is also probably a better idea to remove the forks before attempting to remove the frame. The rear most hinge is exactly the same distance apart as is the size of the rear cylinder, you'll catch it under the cylinder head and scuff it (the black part) if you forcibly try to remove it.



Of course, I learnt this the hard way.


Whoever designed the bottom of the engine is a bloody genius. It's FLAT!!!! It is 14.5mm off the ground. The rear end with the exhaust collector will drop once the frame is removed as the shock is connected to that area and without support from the frame the whole thing just sags down with the swingarm pivot acting as the fulcrum. Refer to first pic.



Lastly, always take notes and mark parts. There are too many nuts and bolts to remember where they came from. I pulled out a bunch of tubes in fustration to remove the carb and I have no idea where they go to now.






I'm considering pulling apart the cases and making my own manual CCT, it has been riddened 70k km but from the looks of it, this is the first time the engine has ever left the frame.

Also, 4L of oil = 4Kg of extra stuff you have to move around. Maybe it's a better idea to drain the oil. I don't have a proper way of disposing it so I'm leaving it in for the time being.

The whole exhaust can be removed without dismantling once the swingarm is off.

Anyone know how to wash a couple of very greasy rags?

 

almost anywhere you buy your oil will take your old stuff: autozone, checkers etc etc. they have to by law. most won't charge if you are buying stuff there anyway and that should be the same for the dealership if you use honda oil.

 

I'm not in the US.
I do have a friend working in a gas station so I'll ask if him about it.

 

didn't catch that. add your general location to the profile - it will help and maybe some other SH members near you.

 

Ok, rather than depose of it, I'm wondering if its possible to re-use the oil. It's been in use for less than 1000km. I googled on the interweb and found an engineering forum that was discussing re-using break-in oil. They would heat and filter it and it was good to use for 5 years. Obviously I don't have my own centrifuge to do filtering but neither has my oil been through that much abuse, what say you guys?

 

I take my greasy, oily rags to the local laundromat and throw them in their machines.

 

After multiple tries, finally got it fitting fine!


Here's the dimensions if anyone's interested. Just to make things simple, I assumed the top 2 mounts sit horizontally on the same plane. From the photos I'm seeing something like a slight tilt, but nothing I can measure manually. I didn't have anything that could be used to take accurate measurements of the angles so what I did was take the distance between all 3 points, drew a triangle and just worked it out from there. Same thing with the swingarm mount. The bolt diameters are 12mm, 10mm, 12mm, 20mm. Interestingly, the diameter of the mounts on the engine and the frame are different, engine mounts have a tighter tolerance. 12.2mm, 10.3mm, 12.2mm compared to 13mm, 11.2mm and 13mm.

I also thought the cylinders sat 45/45degrees from vertical but it looks like it may be 60/30.

 

I think I have may engaged either 1st or 2nd gear when removing the gear shifter, as I can't spin the front sprocket no matter how hard I try.

Is there a way to shift it back to neutral without re-assembling the clutch and gear shifts?

It's not really necessary, I was just cleaning up the grease and muck behind the sprocket for a presentation. I may want to do some manual CCTs later though.

 

Yes, just roll the shift star all the way clockwise and the back counterclockwise 1/2 turn = neutral

 

Thanks!

 

Maybe it's just me but what really doesn't make sense is that you plan on going through all the effort and cost of building a custom bike but then want to go cheap on things like oil and coolant.

Use the same oil for 5 years, really...... a gal of oil doesn't cost all that much. Also a gal of coolant shouldn't break the bank.

So while I commend you on taking on such a big project, you may want to rethink the corners you are cutting.