removing carbs
03-18-2007, 11:55 AM
#1
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Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fort Worth Tx
Posts: 49
removing carbs
Hey all!
I am trying to replace the coolant hoses between the cylinders. It seems like the carbs have to come off to do this. I am following the shop manual's instructions, but the carbs won't budge. please help.....
I am trying to replace the coolant hoses between the cylinders. It seems like the carbs have to come off to do this. I am following the shop manual's instructions, but the carbs won't budge. please help.....
03-18-2007, 12:39 PM
#3
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: MN
Posts: 1,548
Remember there are smaller coolant hoses actually going to the carbs - the carbs are heated by the coolant.
For removal, in addition to loosening the top clamps on the boot as suggested, either start the bike briefly to warm up the rubber so it comes off easier, or use a hair dryer for a few minutes. If they are cold they are very inflexible and stuck. then a lot of muscle - I find it easier to rock them right to left to get them loose. Oh and the front boot clamp is access by a little hole in the plastic just under the frame rail to fit a screw driver in to access it - the clamps are in position to access that way. The clamps won't rotate even when very loose- there is a small rubber dot on the boot holding them in place - don't force them trying to convince yourself its loose.
For removal, in addition to loosening the top clamps on the boot as suggested, either start the bike briefly to warm up the rubber so it comes off easier, or use a hair dryer for a few minutes. If they are cold they are very inflexible and stuck. then a lot of muscle - I find it easier to rock them right to left to get them loose. Oh and the front boot clamp is access by a little hole in the plastic just under the frame rail to fit a screw driver in to access it - the clamps are in position to access that way. The clamps won't rotate even when very loose- there is a small rubber dot on the boot holding them in place - don't force them trying to convince yourself its loose.
03-18-2007, 01:28 PM
#5
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Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Fort Worth Tx
Posts: 49
Thanx, I will try the hair drier. The small hoses are off, top and bottom clamps are loose, but the manual reccommended leaving the airbox attatched if the carbs will not be serviced. I don't know? - to take the airbox off looked like another pain, especially if the small screws get stripped.
03-18-2007, 01:45 PM
#6
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: MN
Posts: 1,548
keeping them attached won't present any additional problems. There is a breather large tube to the airbox from each headcover that easily comes off the box, throttle cables and choke cables - depending on how much room you need you might not have to remove all of those, but is easy after doing it the first time. careful on the choke cables - its a plastic 10mm nut into the carb and doesn't require much force to reattach.
03-18-2007, 03:40 PM
#7
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Merritt,MI.
Posts: 474
I feel your pain man shortly after buying my bike I noticed a coolant leak from the front cyl. water jacket after tracing it down I found that all it was was the hose clamp and beilieve it or not I had to remove here we go!!! the front fairing, the tank, the air box, and I pulled the carbs out of the boots just to get to the ****** fu#%ing hose clamp so never the less I tightened everything and changed the plugs to!! now if I only knew about these a.p.e. cct's then. anyways it is easier to remove the airbox then the carbs you get a little more room to work the manual says what it says because the threads are in alluminum and could strip out just take your time and take pics before hand if it will help you on the re-install good luck
03-18-2007, 03:58 PM
#8
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 224
Caution
When you remove the carbs, be very careful with the "choke" cables..actually (starter valves)... the black plastic fittings that go into th carbs are very fragile...Front one seems the most vulnerable...theres lots of little hoses.. mark them with masking tape if you need too... sometimes they drop down out of site when you get them off.. if this not "an all at one time" it is easy to lose track of them...Maybe Harley has something.. air cooled.. one carb... half the power, half the durablity...
Good luck man
Dave
Good luck man
Dave
03-19-2007, 08:02 PM
#9
Member
Squid
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Missouri City, Texas
Posts: 95
Mine were pretty rough the first time I took them off, and Ive prolly had to take them off a total of 8 times for different reasons each time. One way I found that worked out alright was after the 2 rubber boots on the bottom of each carb are loose, I then loosened 3 of the 4 connecting bolts so that the rear carb can act a little more like a forward and back swivel without having to be attached to the front carb. That way when it is loose, you can give it a better pull in its natural direction of coming off. (The rear carb up and towards the handlebars, the front carb up and towards the seat) Hope that helps ya, also make sure you retighten those rubber boots on the bottow when before you are done putting everything back together, I didnt have a driver long enough to reach, and man was that a b!@#h!!
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