R/R and CCT?
Thread Starter
Member
Squid
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 39
R/R and CCT?
Ok I have PM some peope on here and thank you for your responces. Need alittle more info though. I have a 98 with 24K on it. I ride it like I stole it and Have never had an issue with it until 6 months ago. I think it was the R/R thing everyone is talking about.. I was riding along when Poof the bike cut out. Popped the 30 AMP main fuse. Anyways I got a used R/R off a running Hawk. But is this going to continue to happen. If so what's the deal with the R 1 R/R. Does it just plug in? And I noticed I can't touch my R/R after riding. It's hot as Heck. Also my kick stand switch was causing me issues. Cutting the bike out froom mid to top end. Anyone else ever deal with this. And the dreaded CCT? Is this something I need to address anytime soon? Please advise. I live in the Cincy area and always looking for someone to run with.
Post Whore Junior
MotoGP
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,825
From: Triad, NC
R/R has a sticky in the "Knowledge base"... https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=14380
I suggest reading a few of the "knowledge base" items, you will find most of your answers there.
Kickstand is from vibrations of the engine causing the switch to send faulty "kill" signals. May be dirty contacts, loose spring, or just a bad (or going bad) switch...
From what I understand CCTs are always a concern, though NOT ALL THEM GO BAD. More than enough, though, to raise alarm...
I suggest reading a few of the "knowledge base" items, you will find most of your answers there.
Kickstand is from vibrations of the engine causing the switch to send faulty "kill" signals. May be dirty contacts, loose spring, or just a bad (or going bad) switch...
From what I understand CCTs are always a concern, though NOT ALL THEM GO BAD. More than enough, though, to raise alarm...
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 758
all you have to do (if you dont want to buy a new wiring loom for the back of your bike) is cut off the honda connector, wire your own quick connects on, wrap each one in electrical tape, and plug them in to the new r/r. its very simple. just follow the links that cleveland posted and you'll find the page that will show you exactly how to do it.
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 987
From: San Diego, CA
You don't even have to cut the Honda connector off.
With the right tool, you can remove the pins from the connector and simply shrink wrap the spade connectors and plug them in to the R1 unit. Order of the yellow wires doesn't matter.
With the right tool, you can remove the pins from the connector and simply shrink wrap the spade connectors and plug them in to the R1 unit. Order of the yellow wires doesn't matter.
Member
Squid
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 94
From: Jupiter, Florida
OK. There have been way too many threads about R/R's and CCTs for me not to do something. I have a 98 with very low miles 13K and it has never given me any trouble at all. The swap doesn't look difficult at all so I thought I'd start there. Can someone shed some light on the best way to procure the Yahama R/R for replacement? Is there a best year to get? Do I just go to a dealer and order one?
And, will having the CCT checked or adjusted at 15k and changed at 30K a good way to not have it fail. Or, is it just a time bomb waiting to happen and there is nothing to do to stop it?
And, will having the CCT checked or adjusted at 15k and changed at 30K a good way to not have it fail. Or, is it just a time bomb waiting to happen and there is nothing to do to stop it?
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 287
From: Brooklyn, CT
A 2001 R/R for an R-1 or R/6 (same R/R) will work.
From what I understand, the CCT's wear out, so I doubt any adjustments will help. I have 20k on my bike and will be replacing them at around 25k to be safe. Don't think this board has had any failures before 25k.
Will be doing the R/R conversion this weekend, so I'll let you know if I find any tricks/tips.
From what I understand, the CCT's wear out, so I doubt any adjustments will help. I have 20k on my bike and will be replacing them at around 25k to be safe. Don't think this board has had any failures before 25k.
Will be doing the R/R conversion this weekend, so I'll let you know if I find any tricks/tips.
Senior Member
SuperBike
SuperBike
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,031
From: Los Angeles ish
I just used a small screwdriver.
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 758
OK. There have been way too many threads about R/R's and CCTs for me not to do something. I have a 98 with very low miles 13K and it has never given me any trouble at all. The swap doesn't look difficult at all so I thought I'd start there. Can someone shed some light on the best way to procure the Yahama R/R for replacement? Is there a best year to get? Do I just go to a dealer and order one?
And, will having the CCT checked or adjusted at 15k and changed at 30K a good way to not have it fail. Or, is it just a time bomb waiting to happen and there is nothing to do to stop it?
And, will having the CCT checked or adjusted at 15k and changed at 30K a good way to not have it fail. Or, is it just a time bomb waiting to happen and there is nothing to do to stop it?
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 4,138
From: Austin, Tx
I doubt the 30k mile estimates for the stock CCT's. If you read through the archives thoroughly the biggest onset of failure is at about 16k miles. Some go longer - some don't. I would venture that very few Superhawks make it to 30k with stock tensioners. The others are correct that it's not a difficult task if your handy around a wrench and have the time to concentrate. That's impossible around here. Not the wrench part - it's the distraction. I got a good mechanic here in Austin that did mine and I could not be more satisfied that the work was done very professionally.
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,066
From: NYC
Hey armyguy- I would recommend the R/R asap. They fail unpredictably and immediately. My 98 kicked and I had to push the bike 2 miles (I was under the verazano bridge & you cant leave a bike by itself around here) When they go its lights out so do it now. You can also buy an aftermarket one that is heavy duty & finned that plugs right in.
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 287
From: Brooklyn, CT
+1 on the lights out.
Tell-tale signs are the speedometer and tach go dead. Better find a shady spot quick. Then the odometer goes dead. I only had 2 miles till home when the odometer went and I made it. From the time the speedo died until home was about 4 miles, but I don't think there was much juice left.
Tell-tale signs are the speedometer and tach go dead. Better find a shady spot quick. Then the odometer goes dead. I only had 2 miles till home when the odometer went and I made it. From the time the speedo died until home was about 4 miles, but I don't think there was much juice left.
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