R/R and CCT?
 

Ok I have PM some peope on here and thank you for your responces. Need alittle more info though. I have a 98 with 24K on it. I ride it like I stole it and Have never had an issue with it until 6 months ago. I think it was the R/R thing everyone is talking about.. I was riding along when Poof the bike cut out. Popped the 30 AMP main fuse. Anyways I got a used R/R off a running Hawk. But is this going to continue to happen. If so what's the deal with the R 1 R/R. Does it just plug in? And I noticed I can't touch my R/R after riding. It's hot as Heck. Also my kick stand switch was causing me issues. Cutting the bike out froom mid to top end. Anyone else ever deal with this. And the dreaded CCT? Is this something I need to address anytime soon? Please advise. I live in the Cincy area and always looking for someone to run with.

R/R has a sticky in the "Knowledge base"... https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=14380

I suggest reading a few of the "knowledge base" items, you will find most of your answers there.


Kickstand is from vibrations of the engine causing the switch to send faulty "kill" signals. May be dirty contacts, loose spring, or just a bad (or going bad) switch...

From what I understand CCTs are always a concern, though NOT ALL THEM GO BAD. More than enough, though, to raise alarm...

BTW, I did the 2001 R1 R/R swap a couple months ago.. no issues so far..

Thanks for the Info. I'm trying to up load some pics and for some reason the dang puter is giving me crap. Oh well.. So does the R1 R/R just plug straight in? Or do I have some wiring to do?

all you have to do (if you dont want to buy a new wiring loom for the back of your bike) is cut off the honda connector, wire your own quick connects on, wrap each one in electrical tape, and plug them in to the new r/r. its very simple. just follow the links that cleveland posted and you'll find the page that will show you exactly how to do it.

You don't even have to cut the Honda connector off.

With the right tool, you can remove the pins from the connector and simply shrink wrap the spade connectors and plug them in to the R1 unit. Order of the yellow wires doesn't matter.

OK. There have been way too many threads about R/R's and CCTs for me not to do something. I have a 98 with very low miles 13K and it has never given me any trouble at all. The swap doesn't look difficult at all so I thought I'd start there. Can someone shed some light on the best way to procure the Yahama R/R for replacement? Is there a best year to get? Do I just go to a dealer and order one?
And, will having the CCT checked or adjusted at 15k and changed at 30K a good way to not have it fail. Or, is it just a time bomb waiting to happen and there is nothing to do to stop it?

A 2001 R/R for an R-1 or R/6 (same R/R) will work.

From what I understand, the CCT's wear out, so I doubt any adjustments will help. I have 20k on my bike and will be replacing them at around 25k to be safe. Don't think this board has had any failures before 25k.

Will be doing the R/R conversion this weekend, so I'll let you know if I find any tricks/tips.

I just used a small screwdriver.

like i said before, just follow the link that cleveland posted in the first reply and it will take you to a page that tells you step by step how to do it. the year of r/r from what i know doesnt matter, but if you get one new enough it will cost you around 150 bucks where the older one will cost around 85. so get the older one, there's no need to waste your money on the newer one. i bought the older one and its great.

I doubt the 30k mile estimates for the stock CCT's. If you read through the archives thoroughly the biggest onset of failure is at about 16k miles. Some go longer - some don't. I would venture that very few Superhawks make it to 30k with stock tensioners. The others are correct that it's not a difficult task if your handy around a wrench and have the time to concentrate. That's impossible around here. Not the wrench part - it's the distraction. I got a good mechanic here in Austin that did mine and I could not be more satisfied that the work was done very professionally.

whats an r/r?

Regulator / Rectifier, it's is also called a voltage regulator.

Hey armyguy- I would recommend the R/R asap. They fail unpredictably and immediately. My 98 kicked and I had to push the bike 2 miles (I was under the verazano bridge & you cant leave a bike by itself around here) When they go its lights out so do it now. You can also buy an aftermarket one that is heavy duty & finned that plugs right in.

+1 on the lights out.

Tell-tale signs are the speedometer and tach go dead. Better find a shady spot quick. Then the odometer goes dead. I only had 2 miles till home when the odometer went and I made it. From the time the speedo died until home was about 4 miles, but I don't think there was much juice left.