hupmanmj

I just got an 03 Hawk about 2 weeks ago and it has a stock engine and exhaust system. no mods that I am aware of and It needs an oil change as it hasn't had one since last season. I am thinking about running honda 20W-50 HP4M synth/ petrlm blend w/ moly. or I could run w/o moly. or from what I have read on other oil related threads (not an easy topic to find surprisingly) Mobil 1 20W-50 would be a good choice as well.

any thoughts about the HP4M w/ moly vs w/o moly? thanks,

saige

make sure for one,any oil you use is not energy conserving at all.
10w/40 is plenty good.
easy bet would be to use mobil1 vtwin syn motor oil.you can get it at walmart for 8 to 9 a bottle.
or even the auto part store,which can run a dollar or 2 more.

saige

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...erencing-7884/

GTS

I like running factory oil so the Honda stuff is preferred. With moly if you want to spend the extra coin. But as you seem to have indicated you've already found everyone has an opinion on oil so run what seems to work for you. Just make sure it's motorcycle oil. Automotive oils don't have the proper additive package in them for the transmission gears as well as for the wet clutch.

hupmanmj

thanks for the advice. ill keep it in mind when I pick up the oil tom afternoon sometime.

Tweety

Yeah, you did... And so did I...

Don't use cooking oil, and don't use energy conserving oil... Other than that, it's a free for all...

7moore7

For a stock system, why not run a stock weight? 20w-50 seems pretty thick... although it's not cooking oil so I may be overly concerned, haha!

twinman

U cant use moly cause of the wet clutches

thetophatflash

I've run the 20w-50 Honda with moly for 13 years and ran a similar blend from Schaeffer in my 500 Interceptor for 14 years. The interceptor shifted smoother and I believe the Hawk does too, but it's been so long ago that I switched the difference is not very strong in my old data bank. lol

ascothawk

I remember that graphite oil,it didn't work to well in my 73 big block Monte Carlo that needed valve seals. The graphite would burn and form carbon deposits that would bridge the electrode and ground strap on the plugs in just a few days. Of course it was always the hardest plug to get to. A change back to conventional oil and all was good.

hupmanmj

thanks for all the input. I read a lot about oil in the last few days and decided to go with HP4 10W-40 w/o molly. I think that this is a good starting point and it is the viscosity called out in the owners manual anyways. I found an article that i thought was a good read, but now can't seem to find it. ill find the link and post it later. thanks again

GTS

It's made for motorcycles with wet clutches so I think it's just fine to run in these bikes if you so choose.