oil seal on output shaft
#1
oil seal on output shaft
I have replaced this seal on my xr600 .. I "think" i am confident enough to replace the one on m super hawk? This is a 8 dollar seal my local shop want 60 bucks to install. i have already successfully torn my clutch/chain guard off and replaced with no problems to inspect the damage.. i do own a torque wrench..
From what a gather you use something to pry the old seal out and then use a wide socket , some grease, and slide thw new one in and put her back togethor...i have read that bleeding the hydraulic clutch afterwards is a good idea ialso..
Does this sound correct.. or should i pay to have it done?
From what a gather you use something to pry the old seal out and then use a wide socket , some grease, and slide thw new one in and put her back togethor...i have read that bleeding the hydraulic clutch afterwards is a good idea ialso..
Does this sound correct.. or should i pay to have it done?
#2
The very best of luck to you.
I had to write a reply to your request for help on this because in a freak occurance several months ago, I had a leak coming out of my seal. I was most fortunate enough to this day to be saved by cleaning everything out very well and applying a fair amount of very thick engine assembly grease to the seal and a thin coat to the shaft.
On inserting the shaft, I twisted slowly to help "thread out" andy potential weak points - and we're talking the most minimal of effort for oil to weap through, but anything helps, right? But after that, I haven't had any oil come out and have been able to avoid a replacement of the seal.
But concerning its replacement, I really don't know how it would be done. I think there is a steel "U/bucket" ring that makes it up... ...and don't freak out on me and have a heart attack, but in order to replace it... ....I'd say that the crank case halves have to be split open. (Am I right everyone?) Or is it possible to replace that seal with out them being split? I've had a couple other Honda engines apart and seen these things, and think I remember there being minimal clearance for just a "press fit" with the seals in question.
Just my input - hope that the case doesn't need to be split though. Cause I don't know how long my "grease" job will hold up for...............
I had to write a reply to your request for help on this because in a freak occurance several months ago, I had a leak coming out of my seal. I was most fortunate enough to this day to be saved by cleaning everything out very well and applying a fair amount of very thick engine assembly grease to the seal and a thin coat to the shaft.
On inserting the shaft, I twisted slowly to help "thread out" andy potential weak points - and we're talking the most minimal of effort for oil to weap through, but anything helps, right? But after that, I haven't had any oil come out and have been able to avoid a replacement of the seal.
But concerning its replacement, I really don't know how it would be done. I think there is a steel "U/bucket" ring that makes it up... ...and don't freak out on me and have a heart attack, but in order to replace it... ....I'd say that the crank case halves have to be split open. (Am I right everyone?) Or is it possible to replace that seal with out them being split? I've had a couple other Honda engines apart and seen these things, and think I remember there being minimal clearance for just a "press fit" with the seals in question.
Just my input - hope that the case doesn't need to be split though. Cause I don't know how long my "grease" job will hold up for...............
#3
I AM POSATIVE ITS NOT A RING THAT HAS TO BE "PRESSED" IN by a machine or tool.. ITS A RUBBER SEAL THAT CAN BE PICKED OUT OF ITS ALOTTED SPACE BETWEEN THE CASE AND THE SHAFT WITH A PAPER CLIP.. I HAVE DONE THIS BEFORE ON MY OLD HONDA XR600 AND HAVE HAD MULTIPLE PEOPLE TELL ME THE SAME THING HERE, IT CAN BE PICKED OUT AND PRESSED IN BY HAND.. I JUST WANTED TO MAKE SURE... i KNOW YOU DO NOT HAVE TO SPLIT THE CASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! PEOPLE TRIED TELLING ME THAT ON MY XR600.. IM TALKING ABOUT THE CHEAP OUTER RUBBER SEAL, NOT THE BEARING ON THE SHAFT AND NOT THE SHAFT ITSELF..JUST THE CHEAP VERY ACCESSABLE SEAL
Last edited by lynchie; 08-04-2008 at 03:16 PM.
#4
I AM POSATIVE ITS NOT A RING THAT HAS TO BE "PRESSED" IN by a machine or tool.. ITS A RUBBER SEAL THAT CAN BE PICKED OUT OF ITS ALOTTED SPACE BETWEEN THE CASE AND THE SHAFT WITH A PAPER CLIP.. I HAVE DONE THIS BEFORE ON MY OLD HONDA XR600 AND HAVE HAD MULTIPLE PEOPLE TELL ME THE SAME THING HERE, IT CAN BE PICKED OUT AND PRESSED IN BY HAND.. I JUST WANTED TO MAKE SURE... i KNOW YOU DO NOT HAVE TO SPLIT THE CASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! PEOPLE TRIED TELLING ME THAT ON MY XR600.. IM TALKING ABOUT THE CHEAP OUTER RUBBER SEAL, NOT THE BEARING ON THE SHAFT AND NOT THE SHAFT ITSELF..JUST THE CHEAP VERY ACCESSABLE SEAL
#6
I have replaced this seal on my xr600 .. I "think" i am confident enough to replace the one on m super hawk? This is a 8 dollar seal my local shop want 60 bucks to install. i have already successfully torn my clutch/chain guard off and replaced with no problems to inspect the damage.. i do own a torque wrench..
From what a gather you use something to pry the old seal out and then use a wide socket , some grease, and slide thw new one in and put her back togethor...i have read that bleeding the hydraulic clutch afterwards is a good idea ialso..
Does this sound correct.. or should i pay to have it done?
From what a gather you use something to pry the old seal out and then use a wide socket , some grease, and slide thw new one in and put her back togethor...i have read that bleeding the hydraulic clutch afterwards is a good idea ialso..
Does this sound correct.. or should i pay to have it done?
#8
In the past on similar seals, I've drained the oil, removed the seal, degreased the seal pocket perimeter (edge) and reintalled it using Three Bond 1104 or 1194, HondaBond 4, Suzuki Sildar, or even Yamabond 7 Grip Lock (which works for handgrips too).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
AngryOlaf
Knowledge Base
3
05-25-2010 09:39 AM