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Hey Help exterior oil seal on main shaft

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Old Aug 5, 2008 | 07:55 AM
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Hey Help exterior oil seal on main shaft

Can anyone tell me if the exterior oil seal on the output shaft is an easy swap ( oil seal behind front sprocket) on my 98 superhawk.. I have done this repair on my xr600 and i have multiple people say its easy as cake..can someone confirm please?.. i dont want to pay 75 dollars at my local shop...i do own a impact gun to remove bolt and a torque wrnch to replace bolt to spec.
this is my second post and i have had no help..heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelpppp!!!!!

Last edited by Wolverine; Apr 12, 2012 at 09:26 PM.
Old Apr 6, 2012 | 10:52 AM
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Bump on this...I too need to know if this is an easy replacment.

Thanks
Old Apr 6, 2012 | 12:39 PM
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No so easy and if a shop will do it for $75 including the seal and a warranty, jump on it. However, if the seal is leaking it may be the bearing behind it and/or shaft itself has an issue. Then again, if its a minor drip it could just be an automatic chain oiler LOL; i.e., live with it& keep an eye on the oil level.

17 91106-KM1-013 BEARING (14X22X16) $10.76

18 91203-KA4-771 OIL SEAL (14X22X5) $2.36
Old Apr 6, 2012 | 01:59 PM
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The cases should be split to do this repair... there is a lip on the seal that fits into a groove in the cases... make sure its leaking and its not slinging from the chain... ive read you can do it without splitting the cases if you grind the lip off the seal and get it in i tried once with no luck... dont know why honda designed it this way but it sucks...
Old Apr 6, 2012 | 09:50 PM
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No way is a shop gonna split the cases and let you leave for 75 clams.
Old Apr 8, 2012 | 10:25 AM
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Thanks guys! Yeah, both seals were leaking. Called up DFW Honda and asked them about it and they said that the case should not have to be split but it will be a PITA to get back in. We shall see. I agree, its a pretty dumb design.
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 08:05 PM
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OK guys, a little update. Got the new seal in and went at it. I removed the old main shaft seal with a hammer and screw driver and just pried it out. Not that big of a deal.

Now, to get the main seal in, after trial and error, I found a way. I used a dremel to grind down the outer lip on the new seal just slightly. Then, on about 1/4 of the lip I ground it down about half way and put and angle on it. I then put it in place. I got a spacer, in this case, I used the old seal, and placed it over the new seal. Then, I put the sprocket over it (I am getting new sprockets anyways). The sprocket gives you an area to pound on and it keeps everything centralized. Lastly, beat the hell out of the sprocket with a hammer and it popped right in. You will need to hit pretty hard and in a circular manner.

Hope this helps anyone wishing to replace this seal!
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 08:37 PM
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Sounds like a fiasco but the real "end" of the story is if you live happily ever after.

You gotta put a ton of miles on it before you know if the steps you took to ease installation also comprimised integrity.

Hope it works; keep us posted.
Old Apr 12, 2012 | 09:00 PM
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very true. Judging by how much force it still took to press in, I think it should be OK but you never know! Bike will still be down for a few more weeks, as I am painting and powder coating right now. I will keep y'all posted!
Old Apr 13, 2012 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by jte4200
OK guys, a little update. Got the new seal in and went at it. I removed the old main shaft seal with a hammer and screw driver and just pried it out. Not that big of a deal.

Now, to get the main seal in, after trial and error, I found a way. I used a dremel to grind down the outer lip on the new seal just slightly. Then, on about 1/4 of the lip I ground it down about half way and put and angle on it. I then put it in place. I got a spacer, in this case, I used the old seal, and placed it over the new seal. Then, I put the sprocket over it (I am getting new sprockets anyways). The sprocket gives you an area to pound on and it keeps everything centralized. Lastly, beat the hell out of the sprocket with a hammer and it popped right in. You will need to hit pretty hard and in a circular manner.

Hope this helps anyone wishing to replace this seal!
I would have maybe done a little more grinding of the lip, made sure everything was clean, oil-free and dry (Acetone is a greater cleaner and evaporates without residue), and put a thin coat of Yamalube 5 on the seal "seat" and seal O.D. before installation. Yamalube 5 is a wonderful product and should enable the seal to resist crankcase pressure and shaft rotational friction force while enabling easier installation.
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