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Odometer frozen

Old 06-01-2012, 04:25 PM
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Odometer frozen

So.... my speedo has been acting up for some time bouncing/not moving at all, I realyl didn't care much. I also had a problem with some current drain from the trip meter which I simply remedied with removing the fuse for that circuit, again didn't care much.

But today I noticed something a little different. The odometer is frozen at 69204, and didn't change through out an entire tank that I ran through the bike today. Any ideas or suggestions?
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Old 06-01-2012, 05:17 PM
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Sounds like the speed sensor has stopped working. Run the tests in the Service Manual and report back what you find.
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Old 06-01-2012, 06:20 PM
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Yup will do.
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Old 06-02-2012, 04:44 AM
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The wiring diagram indicates the trip meter and odometer are on the same power wire from the fuse block. (any year)
You killed your odometer when you pulled that fuse.

Last edited by CrankenFine; 06-02-2012 at 04:45 AM. Reason: addl info
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Old 06-02-2012, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by CrankenFine View Post
The wiring diagram indicates the trip meter and odometer are on the same power wire from the fuse block. (any year)
You killed your odometer when you pulled that fuse.
not true, pulled the fuse and the odo still worked fine, so did the trip (except the trip would always reset to 0 if the bike was turned off. the odo would work as normal. I used it like this for months.
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Old 06-02-2012, 08:42 AM
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OK I am stumped. The fuse is clearly indicated to provide DC to the odo and trip meter on wiring diagrams in the factory manual for both types instrument cluster. It must run on FM.
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Old 06-02-2012, 09:24 AM
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The fuse he pulled labeled 'A' is the keep alive memory for the tripmeter and is always hot. The odometer still gets power from the speedometer power wire through the 'E' fuse When the ignition is switched ON.

Last edited by BeerHunter; 06-02-2012 at 09:27 AM.
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Old 06-02-2012, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by 20_rc51_00 View Post
not true, pulled the fuse and the odo still worked fine, so did the trip (except the trip would always reset to 0 if the bike was turned off. the odo would work as normal. I used it like this for months.
that means someone messed with the wiring at one point and either put a wire in the wrong place,or hooked up some wires to the power source,which means its key on/off.does not run thru the fuse box.
gonna have to trace wires and put it back to normal.
it sucks,but you may find other problems.
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Old 06-03-2012, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by saige View Post
that means someone messed with the wiring at one point and either put a wire in the wrong place,or hooked up some wires to the power source,which means its key on/off.does not run thru the fuse box.
gonna have to trace wires and put it back to normal.
it sucks,but you may find other problems.
Or you could just listen to beerhunter, since he hit the mark on this one...
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Old 06-03-2012, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Tweety View Post
Or you could just listen to beerhunter, since he hit the mark on this one...
lol,yea,i meant to edit post,cause his did sound alot better,was just to lazy after that.
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:05 PM
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so the speedo and odo are working just fine again. It apprears that there is some sort of looseness bte the connector fo the speedo healer unit and it's own harness.
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Old 06-06-2012, 02:00 PM
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That is my favorite kind of fix, the kind that doesn't cost any money!

Are all the pins fully engaged in the connector?
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Old 06-06-2012, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by BeerHunter View Post
That is my favorite kind of fix, the kind that doesn't cost any money!

Are all the pins fully engaged in the connector?
They are now anyways. I had to fasten the whole body of the speedo healer in a different way so that there is some tension against the connector otherwise the same thing happens. I'm not sure how to tighten the prongs against the pins for as a better solution. Also it appears that the vibes of the hawk have caused loosening of the plastic of the male and female connector so there is a less retention between the two.
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Old 06-16-2012, 03:51 PM
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Hi,

I have the symptoms described by the original poster.

I followed the instructions in the manual for troubleshooting.

I don't have a stand (and didn't have a friend with me), so I couldn't get the rear wheel off the ground to test for the voltage pulses from the sensor. But I did decide to test the voltage from the sensor at rest, and it has constant 4.7V ?

I am guessing that this concludes that the sensor is faulty - meaning, the voltage should have measured zero? I just wanted to check here as I am not all that electrically inclined and want to make sure I am interpreting this correctly.

(If this is the issue, anyone happen to have a sensor for sale? I checked the classifieds section and didn't see any actively for sale)

If I have to replace this, anyone know if the parts are different from later model Superhawks? I have a 1998. If the newer sensors have been revised to be better, and they are backward compatible, I'd want to get the newer one.

Thanks in advance!

JB
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Old 06-16-2012, 03:55 PM
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only the 98 to 2000 model sensors will work for your hawk.
2001 and up have a different speedo all together.cant use those sensors.
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Old 06-16-2012, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by saige View Post
only the 98 to 2000 model sensors will work for your hawk.
2001 and up have a different speedo all together.cant use those sensors.
Yes the speedometer is different above 2000 models, but the speed sensor is the same replacement part for all years!

SENSOR, SPEEDOMETER
37700-MBB-010 (replaces 37700-MBB-000)
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Old 06-16-2012, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by justinjbaron View Post
Hi,

... so I couldn't get the rear wheel off the ground to test for the voltage pulses from the sensor. But I did decide to test the voltage from the sensor at rest, and it has constant 4.7V ?

I am guessing that this concludes that the sensor is faulty - meaning, the voltage should have measured zero? I just wanted to check here as I am not all that electrically inclined and want to make sure I am interpreting this correctly....


JB
The voltage reading will depend on the position of the exciter ring of the transmission in relation to the magnet on the speed sensor.

Try simply rolling the motorcycle either direction slowly while watching the meter. Place the multimeter up on the tank so you can see it.
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Old 06-16-2012, 04:46 PM
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crap,foiled again lol
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Old 06-16-2012, 05:19 PM
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HaHA! Don't get discouraged, keep hammering at it and one day you will miss your thumb more often!
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Old 06-16-2012, 05:44 PM
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lol,it seems i keep having these brain farts and dont think correctly.but why only on this thread ugggggg
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Old 06-16-2012, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by BeerHunter View Post
The voltage reading will depend on the position of the exciter ring of the transmission in relation to the magnet on the speed sensor.

Try simply rolling the motorcycle either direction slowly while watching the meter. Place the multimeter up on the tank so you can see it.

I sorta did this, how far would I need to roll the motorcycle to invoke a voltage change? I moved it about a parking space's worth of distance.

Will try again tomorrow to be sure.

Really appreciate the replies.

JB
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Old 06-16-2012, 09:41 PM
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I would think a parking space length should be enough to provide several pulses. Sounds like a bad sensor. Unbolt it from the case, pull it out and check for a large mound of metal particles clinging to the magnet. If so wipe it off, put it back together and test again. If there is only light buildup, I would call it a bad sensor.

Ohh, welcome to the SuperHawk Forum!
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Old 06-16-2012, 09:54 PM
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Thanks! I just bought my SuperHawk yesterday!

1998, hasn't been dropped, bought from original adult and fairly maintenance-inclined owner. 26K on it. It needs a few things but overall I am psyched. It's a lot of bike for a first bike but I am taking things slow.

Thanks again for the replies.

Justin
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