Odometer frozen
#1
Odometer frozen
So.... my speedo has been acting up for some time bouncing/not moving at all, I realyl didn't care much. I also had a problem with some current drain from the trip meter which I simply remedied with removing the fuse for that circuit, again didn't care much.
But today I noticed something a little different. The odometer is frozen at 69204, and didn't change through out an entire tank that I ran through the bike today. Any ideas or suggestions?
But today I noticed something a little different. The odometer is frozen at 69204, and didn't change through out an entire tank that I ran through the bike today. Any ideas or suggestions?
#4
The wiring diagram indicates the trip meter and odometer are on the same power wire from the fuse block. (any year)
You killed your odometer when you pulled that fuse.
You killed your odometer when you pulled that fuse.
Last edited by CrankenFine; 06-02-2012 at 04:45 AM. Reason: addl info
#5
not true, pulled the fuse and the odo still worked fine, so did the trip (except the trip would always reset to 0 if the bike was turned off. the odo would work as normal. I used it like this for months.
#7
The fuse he pulled labeled 'A' is the keep alive memory for the tripmeter and is always hot. The odometer still gets power from the speedometer power wire through the 'E' fuse When the ignition is switched ON.
Last edited by BeerHunter; 06-02-2012 at 09:27 AM.
#8
gonna have to trace wires and put it back to normal.
it sucks,but you may find other problems.
#9
that means someone messed with the wiring at one point and either put a wire in the wrong place,or hooked up some wires to the power source,which means its key on/off.does not run thru the fuse box.
gonna have to trace wires and put it back to normal.
it sucks,but you may find other problems.
gonna have to trace wires and put it back to normal.
it sucks,but you may find other problems.
#13
They are now anyways. I had to fasten the whole body of the speedo healer in a different way so that there is some tension against the connector otherwise the same thing happens. I'm not sure how to tighten the prongs against the pins for as a better solution. Also it appears that the vibes of the hawk have caused loosening of the plastic of the male and female connector so there is a less retention between the two.
#14
Hi,
I have the symptoms described by the original poster.
I followed the instructions in the manual for troubleshooting.
I don't have a stand (and didn't have a friend with me), so I couldn't get the rear wheel off the ground to test for the voltage pulses from the sensor. But I did decide to test the voltage from the sensor at rest, and it has constant 4.7V ?
I am guessing that this concludes that the sensor is faulty - meaning, the voltage should have measured zero? I just wanted to check here as I am not all that electrically inclined and want to make sure I am interpreting this correctly.
(If this is the issue, anyone happen to have a sensor for sale? I checked the classifieds section and didn't see any actively for sale)
If I have to replace this, anyone know if the parts are different from later model Superhawks? I have a 1998. If the newer sensors have been revised to be better, and they are backward compatible, I'd want to get the newer one.
Thanks in advance!
JB
I have the symptoms described by the original poster.
I followed the instructions in the manual for troubleshooting.
I don't have a stand (and didn't have a friend with me), so I couldn't get the rear wheel off the ground to test for the voltage pulses from the sensor. But I did decide to test the voltage from the sensor at rest, and it has constant 4.7V ?
I am guessing that this concludes that the sensor is faulty - meaning, the voltage should have measured zero? I just wanted to check here as I am not all that electrically inclined and want to make sure I am interpreting this correctly.
(If this is the issue, anyone happen to have a sensor for sale? I checked the classifieds section and didn't see any actively for sale)
If I have to replace this, anyone know if the parts are different from later model Superhawks? I have a 1998. If the newer sensors have been revised to be better, and they are backward compatible, I'd want to get the newer one.
Thanks in advance!
JB
#16
SENSOR, SPEEDOMETER
37700-MBB-010 (replaces 37700-MBB-000)
#17
Hi,
... so I couldn't get the rear wheel off the ground to test for the voltage pulses from the sensor. But I did decide to test the voltage from the sensor at rest, and it has constant 4.7V ?
I am guessing that this concludes that the sensor is faulty - meaning, the voltage should have measured zero? I just wanted to check here as I am not all that electrically inclined and want to make sure I am interpreting this correctly....
JB
... so I couldn't get the rear wheel off the ground to test for the voltage pulses from the sensor. But I did decide to test the voltage from the sensor at rest, and it has constant 4.7V ?
I am guessing that this concludes that the sensor is faulty - meaning, the voltage should have measured zero? I just wanted to check here as I am not all that electrically inclined and want to make sure I am interpreting this correctly....
JB
Try simply rolling the motorcycle either direction slowly while watching the meter. Place the multimeter up on the tank so you can see it.
#21
The voltage reading will depend on the position of the exciter ring of the transmission in relation to the magnet on the speed sensor.
Try simply rolling the motorcycle either direction slowly while watching the meter. Place the multimeter up on the tank so you can see it.
Try simply rolling the motorcycle either direction slowly while watching the meter. Place the multimeter up on the tank so you can see it.
I sorta did this, how far would I need to roll the motorcycle to invoke a voltage change? I moved it about a parking space's worth of distance.
Will try again tomorrow to be sure.
Really appreciate the replies.
JB
#22
I would think a parking space length should be enough to provide several pulses. Sounds like a bad sensor. Unbolt it from the case, pull it out and check for a large mound of metal particles clinging to the magnet. If so wipe it off, put it back together and test again. If there is only light buildup, I would call it a bad sensor.
Ohh, welcome to the SuperHawk Forum!
Ohh, welcome to the SuperHawk Forum!
#23
Thanks! I just bought my SuperHawk yesterday!
1998, hasn't been dropped, bought from original adult and fairly maintenance-inclined owner. 26K on it. It needs a few things but overall I am psyched. It's a lot of bike for a first bike but I am taking things slow.
Thanks again for the replies.
Justin
1998, hasn't been dropped, bought from original adult and fairly maintenance-inclined owner. 26K on it. It needs a few things but overall I am psyched. It's a lot of bike for a first bike but I am taking things slow.
Thanks again for the replies.
Justin
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