New owner; used SH; engine quit
04-03-2011, 08:15 AM
#31
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Pull it out and it will have 3 legs on it. If you have a diode checker just use that otherwise use an OHM meter. Check from the center pin to each of the outside pins. You should have continuity one way and when you switch the leads it should be open.
04-03-2011, 10:57 AM
#32
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So did you ever check the spark plug for spark on the engine block? You gotta check for that. If you have it then it should start with starting fluid and its feuel. I have gone through this and it eventually started with a jump start. Dumb I know but you gotta try everything.
04-03-2011, 02:58 PM
#33
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In the fuse block you have a row of fuses & 2 spare fuses off to the side. Right next to the spare fuses is a black rectangle. That is the Diode.
Pull it out and it will have 3 legs on it. If you have a diode checker just use that otherwise use an OHM meter. Check from the center pin to each of the outside pins. You should have continuity one way and when you switch the leads it should be open.
Pull it out and it will have 3 legs on it. If you have a diode checker just use that otherwise use an OHM meter. Check from the center pin to each of the outside pins. You should have continuity one way and when you switch the leads it should be open.
04-03-2011, 03:15 PM
#34
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04-03-2011, 03:32 PM
#35
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So did you ever check the spark plug for spark on the engine block? You gotta check for that. If you have it then it should start with starting fluid and its feuel. I have gone through this and it eventually started with a jump start. Dumb I know but you gotta try everything.
Removed front plug; re-connected it to the boot/wire; tried to start engine while holding wire and bringing tip of plug close to engine block (no spark); touched engine block (no spark at all). Replaced the front plug and removed the rear plug. Same thing with the rear plug. Neither of them give spark. I can't believe that's the cause of all of this, because how would I have been able to start the engine and travel for 30+ miles with no issues and then have the engine die because both plugs are bad?
I have to be doing something wrong.
04-03-2011, 03:44 PM
#36
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You gotta touch the thread part of the plug to the grounding source, not the tip, may change the results. I look for big bolt heads, as in the picture. Any raw steel you can find is the best
04-03-2011, 04:13 PM
#37
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Just for reference, the spark plug is:
NGK R
DPR9EVX
9
Pictures:
1. My gap tool only goes up to 0.020 (0.508mm) and the gap on this plug is greater than that. Not by much, but the gap is bigger.
2. Shows how black the plug is, as mentioned earlier.
NGK R
DPR9EVX
9
Pictures:
1. My gap tool only goes up to 0.020 (0.508mm) and the gap on this plug is greater than that. Not by much, but the gap is bigger.
2. Shows how black the plug is, as mentioned earlier.
04-03-2011, 04:22 PM
#38
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By the way: I am smelling fuel through the spark plug hole as it turns over.
04-03-2011, 04:29 PM
#39
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How do I test the kill switch? I still haven't figured out that wiring.
(see post my post #22)
By the way: Thanks for being so patient with me guys. As I said in the intro, I have very limited motorcycle repair knowledge and skill. So this is a real learning experience for me.
(see post my post #22)
By the way: Thanks for being so patient with me guys. As I said in the intro, I have very limited motorcycle repair knowledge and skill. So this is a real learning experience for me.
04-03-2011, 05:11 PM
#40
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I'm not getting a spark from either plug...
Same thing with the rear plug. Neither of them give spark. I can't believe that's the cause of all of this, because how would I have been able to start the engine and travel for 30+ miles with no issues and then have the engine die because both plugs are bad?...
Same thing with the rear plug. Neither of them give spark. I can't believe that's the cause of all of this, because how would I have been able to start the engine and travel for 30+ miles with no issues and then have the engine die because both plugs are bad?...
04-03-2011, 05:31 PM
#41
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How do I test the kill switch? I still haven't figured out that wiring.
(see post my post #22)
By the way: Thanks for being so patient with me guys. As I said in the intro, I have very limited motorcycle repair knowledge and skill. So this is a real learning experience for me.
(see post my post #22)
By the way: Thanks for being so patient with me guys. As I said in the intro, I have very limited motorcycle repair knowledge and skill. So this is a real learning experience for me.
Service Manual - SuperHawk Forum
Now you have a copy of the service manual
04-03-2011, 07:12 PM
#44
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Whew! Got that done.
Did the continuity check and the kill switch checks out fine.
04-04-2011, 04:23 PM
#47
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3-4 days of trying to figure this thing out with my limited abilities - I gave up.
Took it to Honda Service this morning.
I'll let you know what they come up with as soon as they tell me.
Thanks for all your help, though.
It's been a learning experience!
Took it to Honda Service this morning.
I'll let you know what they come up with as soon as they tell me.
Thanks for all your help, though.
It's been a learning experience!
04-04-2011, 05:11 PM
#48
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Yeah man I hate that feeling. Did you talk to them about the stuff you thought. SOMETIMES that helps them to not rip you off as much. I had to do that when I half fried my ECU and couldnt figure it out.
04-04-2011, 07:51 PM
#49
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Regardless of that... I'm going to go back tomorrow morning, in person (maybe try to speak with the tech directly) and remind them that all switches checked out fine, but that I got no spark.
04-04-2011, 09:13 PM
#50
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Dont push too hard to speak to everyone. That tends to **** them off. They wont likely change their diagnostics based on your say so, it just helps to give them a sense that you care & are not a total know-nothing owner & have a sense of the bike.
04-06-2011, 10:47 PM
#51
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Honda service has been pretty cool with me.
So far they have narrowed it down to either the ICM/CDI or the converter unit. The mechanic said he would bet its the ICM, but there is no way of knowing until a new one is installed. Argh! very expensive.
So far they have narrowed it down to either the ICM/CDI or the converter unit. The mechanic said he would bet its the ICM, but there is no way of knowing until a new one is installed. Argh! very expensive.
04-07-2011, 07:35 AM
#52
my e-penis is huge!!
Superstock
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This exact thing happened to a friend & customer of mine. It turned out to be the Converter box for CDI under the seat. He was riding up the highway, in traffic & it just died. Make note though, they are NOT the same in all years, there is a definate change over in the early 2000's somewhere so beware if you buy used.
SKU: 30450-MBB-E31
CONVERTER UNIT, C.D.I. 1 $442.73
SKU: 30450-MBB-E31
CONVERTER UNIT, C.D.I. 1 $442.73
04-09-2011, 07:04 AM
#54
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Got the ICM replaced - no go!
Working on getting a converter unit, but they are $500+ from Honda.
If that doesn't work, then we are dead in the water - my mechanic will be out of options.
Working on getting a converter unit, but they are $500+ from Honda.
If that doesn't work, then we are dead in the water - my mechanic will be out of options.
04-09-2011, 07:28 AM
#56
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The converter units are the same from a 98 and 05 according to ronayers, I have one for $60 shipped...PM sent.
Also, ronayers.com has $253.34 for the price of the converter, so your place is charging WAY too much for one.
Also, ronayers.com has $253.34 for the price of the converter, so your place is charging WAY too much for one.
Last edited by superh1998; 04-09-2011 at 07:40 AM.
04-09-2011, 07:11 PM
#57
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Now I'm waiting on the converter unit from superh1998.
Last edited by 05Titan; 04-09-2011 at 07:14 PM.
04-12-2011, 11:00 AM
#58
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Unfortunately, the Converter Unit is the wrong fit.
Honda is back ordered on them, too.
Aaaaarrrrrgh!
This is getting to be ridiculous.
The Honda technician said that, if its not the Converter Unit, then neither he nor Honda Tech Support have any more ideas.
That's encouraging!!! <sarcasm>
Honda is back ordered on them, too.
Aaaaarrrrrgh!
This is getting to be ridiculous.
The Honda technician said that, if its not the Converter Unit, then neither he nor Honda Tech Support have any more ideas.
That's encouraging!!! <sarcasm>
04-12-2011, 11:03 AM
#59
my e-penis is huge!!
Superstock
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WOW! I think I heard this somewhere once before...................................
04-12-2011, 12:37 PM
#60
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SuperSport
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It doesn't have all the symptoms, but PVLIR perhaps? Maybe it's not getting enough vacuum to open those gas lines...
Look under your tank and make sure all the lines look line this, specifically the small line should be in the back and not on the bottom:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...es-pics-22048/
Look under your tank and make sure all the lines look line this, specifically the small line should be in the back and not on the bottom:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...es-pics-22048/
update nvm should have read the whole thing.
Last edited by geekonamotorcycle; 04-12-2011 at 12:48 PM.
