I just copied instructions from KRIEGER. They seem simple enough. I'm going to order some manual CCTs. However it speaks about making a "simple" tool for locking the mechanism of the old CCT. I have no Clymer manual. Can anyone direct me as to what I need to use/make to lock the adjusters before I remove them?

 

You only need the locking tool for fitting / refittiing OEM auto CCTs. As you are going to fit manual CCTs just undo each of the two securing bolts gradually alternating between bolts on the old CCT so it comes out square and doesn't wedge in. Remember that the timing must be set correctly for each cylinder you're doing (and cable tie the camchain up top so it can't skip off!). Also ensure each old CCT comes out with the 'pusher' that clips onto the part of the old CCT that pushes onto the tensioner, and that it doesn't remain 'down the hole'.

 

Thanks. Krueger doesn't mention zip ties.

 

Is Krieger the way to go? For price? Reliability? I'm so frigging paranoid now I wanna do it soon.

 

It really depends on what you want. There are a lot of nice, flashy mccts out there for $50-$60+...

I preferred something without the flash, so i modified the stock cct housings and made them into mccts for about $15. Simply drill and tap them, then add hardware.

I have the list of hardware i used if ya want it. It's pretty simple, i used a hand drill to do it.

James

 

I purchased Krieger MCCT a while back and have been happy with the quality. My guess is the differences between brands is minor. The price on the Krieger was less and I didn't want the red that the APE comes in. I did have a small weeping problem on the rear cct There is an O-ring, but that typically doesn't work for sealing around threads very well. I used some Teflon tape and it fixed the weep.

 

www.vtr1000.org ? View topic - Kreiger, APE, Bazza and Ade Whitmarsh's CCT's

www.vtr1000.org ? View topic - Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Installation Guide (MCCT's)

 

If you cant fit MCCT with the all information on this forum then youre a retard theres so much info

key notes on mounting the MCCT

- Making sure youre on the timing right markings
- Making sure its on the compression stroke that means pulling both cam covers which is the safest way (check your valve lash while their off)
- zip ties through the sprocket & chain (above mentioned)
- With the cam chain guide off adjust the MCCT until the chain has about 6-7mm play up & down
- Locktite on the mounting screws
- Fresh gaskets or Gasket maker & old gasket (If youre cheap)

and if youre lucky you dont **** up the timing hole nut/cover
but be prepared to order a new one

Common mistake on the timing hole nut/cover is trying to take it off when its really cold as metal shrinks when cold, so let it warm up then loosen and then let it cool to work on

 

I think that what RoadManiac was trying to say was that he has complete confidence in your ability to install manual CCT's provided that you read the information available on the forum. There's a sticky in the Knowledge Base that is especially helpful.
That being said, he did offer very helpful advice about the plugs in the stator cover that have to be removed to check the timing and turn the crankshaft. Your bike is an '02 with only about 6,100 miles on it. The likelihood is that those plugs haven't been loosened in a long time. They can and do seize.

 

I made a lock key out of one of those thin metal empty slot covers you find on the back of your computer.

I didn't go with manual CCT's . I put a spacer inside the stock CCT so if the spring breaks the stopper will not back out enough to cause damage. Price was $0. I "borrowed" two 8mm dowels from work to use as stoppers.

 

have you tested this ?
its not a for ever option the chain will wear causing more room between the dowels and when it fails you dont know if it will jump or not, just bore them out and use M8 lockbolts may cost a tinybit more but its safer

 

Their are several documented instances on the UK site where the stopper mod..saved the day.

Yup at my next valve clearance check I will also check to see if the spacer needs to be re done.... no different then re-adjusting manuals.

I'm not arguing for or against MCCT's. Its just a matter of preference.. I like the cost of the spacer mod ($0) and I still having the auto adjusting feature of the stock unit. I don't have to wonder if I have them too loose or too tight.

 

+1

 

Thanks. I'm ordering the Kriegers. The price is great. The guy also has very good customer service. I fired him an Email and he sounds very cool indeed. I'll also take the time to remove the carbs and take off the forward cam cover when I do the mod and check the valve lash.

 

Would there be any demand for such tools? I have both sheet metal and sheering machines here to make those....Thanks for the photos!

 

I'm going to do the tear down this weekend. Im doing the "remove almost everything" route. I want to be able to get to everything and visually inspect the timing at the cams.. should have the Kriegers on Wednesday. Thanks for all of the help. Sorry to ask so many questions.

 

I did the large scale teardown. Fairing, rads. Everything. What a bunch of crap to remove! Now waiting for Kreiger. Wish me luck.

 

As you've taken the carbs off you'll need to balance them once back together again - have you ordered the vacuum takeoff adapter for the front pot and some hose?

www.vtr1000.org ? View topic - How to balance your carbs

 

Wicky, why would I need to re balance? I removed them as one bank. I didn't separate them. This is the second time yanking the carbs as I cleaned them shortly after purchase. It runs spot on. I do own carb synch "sticks". I own several older carbureted Kawasakis.

 

Whether you rebalance or not, fitting the vacuum takeoff adapter as Wicky suggested is an excellent idea.

 

Yes. Wicky has been a GREAT help and I'd like to thank him again! But when he said I must synch. Them, I thought that he figured I'd taken them apart. I got the Kriegers today! Mark Kreiger is quick! I'll do the mod in the morning. I won't be able to run her though because I ordered a new air filter from Honda...

 

Done. I did take about three hours. I ended up locking the lock nuts and then removing the acorn nuts altogether. I'll put them back if I ever have to re adjust them. The photo is of the rear before I locked it down. The rear is a difficult bastard to remove and install...

 

Well done - one less worry!

Usually the front one is the slightly more troublesome one to fit because of the frame and coolant hose limiting but fettling spanner space.