First of all I want to say hi, sorry I've been away for so long; my wife gave birth to our first child, Elijah Wayne on December 17th. So with that and my medical appointments and the busy retirement process (medical retirement, I'm only 23) I've been so completely busy I have barely had time to do anything.

Now to the issue(s), I was accelerating onto the highway when the bike pinned itself, the throttle got stuck on full open so the bike redlined and I was zipping around cars whilst trying to get the throttle to roll-off. I don't know how fast I got going but I started slipping the clutch in an effort to keep it around legal speeds and to get to the next exit so I could pull off and take a look at this thing.

It got a little hairy there for a sec but the throttle released itself after about 5 or 6 seconds of me playing around with the twist grip, long before I could exit and after it released the bike seemed to be fine except for an unreasonably large amount of play in the throttle cable. And when I got down to idle speeds the engine was running pretty ragged, like the engine was cold or it was having choke problems or something. I got to work and shut her off, I had a couple appointments so when I came back out she didn't want to start.

The same thing, running ragged, as if the fuel/air mixture was off or something; I'm thinking it's something to do with the throttle cable going wacky on me, and with the large amount of play in it, that seems to be the culprit. Well I tried to get it started for about 15 or 20 minutes, playing around with the idle speed adjuster, the choke, you know. It would backfire ALOT while I was trying to start it; and then after one hell of a doozy of a backfire it just quit turning over, and started clicking somewhere near the fusebox under the seat everytime I would hit the starter button.

Anyways, this all happened way back on Dec. 15th, and my wife went into labor that night; so I just now have had the time to get my bike back home and start tearing her apart to see what the deal is. And here is the weird thing I found today.

I had taken rotated the tank back, opened the ?airbox? cover and removed that black plastic thing with the air filter in it when I saw this:

http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/v...c/IMG_0725.jpg
http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/v...c/IMG_0723.jpg
http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/v...c/IMG_0722.jpg

(I hope those links work, I'll fix it if they don't)

I found it sitting (yes sitting, not connected to anything) on the edge of the front of the two air intake cylinders, I don't know what they are exactly called, but that thing was just sitting there; very weird to say the least. I didn't find another one or anything, and down that cylinder I can see the throttle butterfly valves moving when I twist the throttle.

Anyways I don't know what the hell that thing is, I'd have a hell of a time trying to describe it without pictures. It's all metal, except for the two little blue plastic things cover those two tubes on the side, the letters "FC" are etched onto the side, and on bolt right next to the twisty spring thing it says "3/8".

About the bike, I'm going to check the fuses and stuff tomorrow, now that the snow is finally gone from here, plus I'll see about replacing the whole throttle cable and assembly or whatever it takes to fix that part. But soon I'm going to have to drain the fluids because the Army movers are transporting my bike back home for me when I get finished outprocessing, like three weeks from now. So I'll let you guys know how it goes, thanks for listening to this long rant.

 

Looks like you have a Flo-commander
http://www.flo-commander.com/

The only thing I know about it is what is on this forum (search Flow commander) and the web site above. I just looked and your pictures match up to the product on the site pretty closely.
Soo.... Not tubes or any plumbing? seems like there should have been.
And congrats on the son

 

Hell yeah, thanks, that's definitely what it is. Now if only I knew what it does or how to use it, or if I even wanted to use it. I'll find that stuff out now. Yeah there is even a picture of one on that site, except it's hooked up correctly and not just sitting there.

 

Don't know beans about the flo-commander and I've never had a throttle stick, but I'm writing a note to myself- Get in the habit of shutting off the bike by thumbing the kill switch so it's second nature.

 

I took the throttle cable assembly off today, sure enough one of the lines was rusted through, the one that pulls the throttle grip closed; I already got one ordered from Fleabay. Now does anyone know how to get the plastic dealie that connects to the grip and holds the nubs at the end of the throttle cables?

 

NVM, Bikebandit.com; cause they are bandits that steal your money.

 

something I need to do...

 

Three words: Engine Cutoff Switch!!!

So, you're serious that the flow commander was just sitting in your airbox??? That's wild. Imagine if that had gotten sucked into the engine somehow? Not a pretty thought. Consider yourself very lucky to have gotten away with a $10 throttle cable.

One thing to note though...the carbs have a pretty strong spring on them. They should have closed themselves off, even without the return cable attached. I'd look into that. It sounds like the bike was modified to some extent before you got it. I'd check linkages, throttle cable routing, and even go so far as to ensure all your airbox screws are tightened down properly and all there!

 

Yes not only was it just sitting in the airbox, it was precariously balanced on the edge of the from intake cylinder; yeah lucky, very lucky. However after disassembling and removing the airbox I found the metal mounting bracket where the FC used to be mounted and a large chunk of it is missing???

Now the circumstances surrounding my bike's erstwhile breakdown is runaway throttle, (fixed that yesterday with a new throttle perch and cable assembly), after that it was running quite ragged, (possible idle speed problem related to the throttle cable?? idk) and then it just stopped running period, like "clunk" it's not going no more. Now it's been a couple weeks since I tried to start it, but when I did all I can hear is a clicking sound near where all the electrical parts are under the seat when I hit the start button.

Now I'm thinking it has something to do with those electrical doohickeys underneath the seat, the ones with all the wires going into them; but I'm not really going to get a chance to work on it any time soon because I'm moving back home to San Antonio in a couple weeks and I've already drained all the fluids, (gas, coolant, oil) so the Army movers can come pick it up and take it home for me along with most of my household goods.

As soon as I can get set up in San Antonio I will be tearing the bike apart, rewiring alot of the rats nest that is under the seat, plus I will check my cylinders and valves and such to make sure I don't have anything untoward down in there that would impede proper operation.

 

Dude, I hate to say it but it really sounds like pieces-parts went into your motor. You need to try to crank the motor over by hand by pulling the plugs and then rotating first in the normal rotation, then if unsuccessful rotate backwards. Don't overtorque it! Listen for metallic sounds and parts hitting parts. Best case scenario is that a piece of the bracket is lodged between the valve and the seat, you lightly tapped a piston and nothing is bent. Worst case scenario you're replacing the head (damaged valve seat) and maybe a piston (hole).

 

Thank you for the info Hawkrider, I'll be doing that as soon as I get set up down in San Antonio.

 

Are you coming down to Brooks? Best of luck and congrats on the new baby. I think Hawrider might be right but don't worry about that now. Concentrate on getting ya'll here then we can figure it out. k-d is in New Braunfels, Randman and I are in NW Austin. There others - several, actually.

This flow-commander is beyond me. The Superhawk only knows one thing - MORE! That's usually the right wrist. People try to do all sorts of things to this beautiful machine without understanding it. Tearing into the engine without doing the suspension and brakes is moronic!

 

Yeah actually I'm getting medically retired although I'm only 23; it's a long story: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=16783 but I'm from San Antonio originally. I can't wait to get back out to the hill country.

But like you were saying, I'll get moved down there and when I get settled I'll start tearing my Hawk apart, it's pretty hard to do anything real to it while I'm here, working with a cheapo Pakistani tool set and just the tailgate of my truck as a workbench outside.

I still have that flow-commander, I might think about putting that back in eventually since I already have the expensive part. But like you are saying, suspension and brakes first, I completely agree with you. It's easy to twist a wrist, trail-braking and holding the right line through a corner are much more rewarding skills to have as far as I'm concerned.

The PO of my bike already put braided SS brake lines for the front brakes and a Two Bros. high-mount exhaust on her. The brakes are pretty good, I'd like more initial bite but the feel is pretty good; I'm thinking I might try some new brake pads because I don't know how much these that are on it have left and I don't trust anything but stuff I've done myself. The suspension is hard as a rock in the back, the forks seem okay.

Honestly, I have a full list of required and necessary maintenance I want to do on her when I get done with this move. I got an older, less expensive bike so I would have the money to fix things up the way I want them to be, I just haven't had the time or the equipment; that'll change once I get back home.

Thanks for the congrats about my son, I love that little boy, I think I'll have him play in the dirt when he wants to get a bike.

 

I have to agree with Hawkrider's diagnosis.
You found the flow commander and part of the bracket.
Where is the nut that held the flow commander to the bracket ?
When the bracket broke, the nut no longer was torqued and vibrated off the mounting stud.
That's what most likely kept your throttle open, on it's way down the intake tract into the cylinder.
Don't try to start or crank the engine anymore, even though it's probably too late anyway, sorry.
I doubt that the nut will fit though the sparkplug hole, which means taking the head off, minimum.
Good Luck.

Kai Ju

P.S. Congrats on the baby.

 

Dude you will never believe what I just found, more to follow.....

 

I'm somewhat settled down in San Antonio so now I have the time to get tear this Superhawk down to the nitty-gritty. I had just taken the carbs off when I saw this down the front cylinder intake: The view from the top: http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/v...c/DSCF6309.jpg Scary: http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/v...c/DSCF6312.jpg Yep: http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/v...c/DSCF6311.jpg

 

Who assembled your bike, clowns?! Someone that enjoyed playing hide and seek obviously!

 

WTF?!

 

That's nice.

My students once found part of a broken CV joint cage (about 2" worth) inside the valve cover of a Ford Taurus. We were doing an oil change for another teacher, and they noticed it when they took off the oil filler cap. Got it out with a magnetic retriever. I told her not to go back to the last shop that changed her oil.

Good thing you looked in there.

 

oddest thing ive found is a stick in the combustion chamber

 

Okay I have torn my 'Hawk down to the innards; I found a couple of small metal pieces that have been beat to **** from living inside a combustion chamber.

http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/v...c/CIMG2299.jpg

Now this is on the front cylinder head; one of my exhaust valves is bent, causing it to stay open and thereby lose it's compression. Here are some pictures:

http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/v...c/CIMG2300.jpg

http://i686.photobucket.com/albums/v...c/CIMG2301.jpg


Now my question is, is this bad enough to necessitate replacement of the valve? And what will replacing it cost me?

I have already torn the engine down to this point, so I might as well finish the job. Just let me know what you think it will entail in both money for parts and time/difficulty.

 

at a minimum the valve will have to be replaced, hopefully not the journal or head too.

as for cost RonAyers.com wants $42 for an exhaust valve, however you may (will probably?) need to do more than just swap it.

 

Okay I'm on RonAyers.com, looking at the parts Fiche for Camshaft Valve. What item numbers do I need to order? Just the valve itself or that whole kit and caboodle.