increasing idle
increasing idle
Bike starts fine, even in 40 degree weather. As she warms up the idle increases to above 1500 RPM. Stage 1 jetting, needle at #5 w/o shim,slides drilled, and set-up as per instructions. 2 Brothers full exhaust and looks to be running a bit rich by looking at the plugs. No PAIR system.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Fish
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Fish
Bike starts fine, even in 40 degree weather. As she warms up the idle increases to above 1500 RPM. Stage 1 jetting, needle at #5 w/o shim,slides drilled, and set-up as per instructions. 2 Brothers full exhaust and looks to be running a bit rich by looking at the plugs. No PAIR system.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Fish
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Fish
If the idle is too high for you turn the idle adjust screw counterclockwise a little bit.
if it idles fine and as warms it increases might be lean at idle. did you adjust the fuel-mixture screws when you set it up? are the needle clipped at #5 from the bottom slot on the needle or #5 from the top of the needle?
there is a procedure for adjusting the fuel mixture screws that is pretty straightforward and might be a good starting point.
there is a procedure for adjusting the fuel mixture screws that is pretty straightforward and might be a good starting point.
5 from the flat end, top.
Edit.2100 RPM when warmed and on the road for a bit. I don't want to mess with the idle every time it warms up. Turning the idle down solves nothing, I've tried that, it only sets the idle so low that the bike is a HUGE pain to start because of the lack of fuel.
Thanks for the help
Fish
Edit.2100 RPM when warmed and on the road for a bit. I don't want to mess with the idle every time it warms up. Turning the idle down solves nothing, I've tried that, it only sets the idle so low that the bike is a HUGE pain to start because of the lack of fuel.
Thanks for the help
Fish
Last edited by Fish; Apr 1, 2010 at 07:59 AM.
Assuming that the valve clearances are within specs AND the carbs have been synchronized properly, then I would think the idle mixture screws need to be adjusted as Cliby has mentioned already. Be aware that a proper synch cannot be done with valves that are too loose or too tight, and the mixture screws cannot be properly tuned unless the carbs are idling in synch.
That being said, with the right tool, mixture screws can be easily adjusted with the engine running. It would not be a mistake to try that first since it is easy to do and can be redone later if other adjustments are needed as well.
That being said, with the right tool, mixture screws can be easily adjusted with the engine running. It would not be a mistake to try that first since it is easy to do and can be redone later if other adjustments are needed as well.
Fish did you do that yet? short of an air leak its probably the most common cause and with a 'little' fiddling you can adjust them on the bike if you have a right angle tool - a shop might let you borrow theirs also if you have a good relationhsip with them.
Not yet but do have the tool and the air mix needles are slotted, got u'm when I was in England. I have a long weekend and hope to get sometime to play with it. Thanks for the help....I'll post results.
Fish
Fish
I would check those valves clearances, rich mix should slow idle while heating up.
A warm air leak at the carb boots would cause this kind of problem, sometimes it's related to the idle pushed too far exposing the pilot holes and getting it dripping changing the mixture, combine this with an air leak and it can cause unexpected behavior.
A warm air leak at the carb boots would cause this kind of problem, sometimes it's related to the idle pushed too far exposing the pilot holes and getting it dripping changing the mixture, combine this with an air leak and it can cause unexpected behavior.
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