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i need engine help please!!

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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 06:06 PM
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i need engine help please!!

so i just picked up a 1999 superhawk not running, so i bought a new battery and started messing with it and got it running but still not right. would die after i reved it. and tonight me and my friend were looking at it and we took all of the top of the air box off and we looked down through the front carb to the valves on the front cylinder and they aren't moving when i crank it over...... thats my problem anyone have any suggestions on what it could be or anything else i can do to text what else it could be? i can post pictures or answer any question that might help me. thanks
Old Mar 24, 2011 | 06:37 PM
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Could be a few things, First, if you have removed the airbox- you mite as well remove the front valve cover. probably give you more information to what could be wrong...
Possible problems - CCT have gone. Timing chain jumped off the cam gears. lobe on cam rounded off..

But just for question sake.... Spray some (WD40, carb spray) on top of the valve.. Then see if the liquid disappears or stays...
Old Mar 24, 2011 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by trey10130
so i just picked up a 1999 superhawk not running, so i bought a new battery and started messing with it and got it running but still not right. would die after i reved it. and tonight me and my friend were looking at it and we took all of the top of the air box off and we looked down through the front carb to the valves on the front cylinder and they aren't moving when i crank it over...... thats my problem anyone have any suggestions on what it could be or anything else i can do to text what else it could be? i can post pictures or answer any question that might help me. thanks
Sound like the cam chain tensioner(CCT)

Read this
CCTs-How to change OEM to Manual Ape CCTs - SuperHawk Forum
Old Mar 24, 2011 | 06:45 PM
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so if it was the cct on the front cylinder it would run but not rev up? i'm assuming that part has to due with durty carbs from sitting for two years. but back to you said spray it ontop of the two valves i can see and then crank it over and see if it gets sucked in the cylinder?
Old Mar 24, 2011 | 07:06 PM
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looking down on top of a symetrical valve-not really accurate,
the liquid spray is Yes to see if the valve is opening- And will yes get sucked into the cylinder... Proving the valve is opening..
The bike not rev-ing , is probably a carb problem...
If the engine cranks up, and has not been running in two years.... Probably best if you don't just start rev-ing it ... right away
Let the bike run at , an idle. Let it warm up to full temperature, Let the fan cut on, a go off...
Let the bike wake up, after being dormant...
Old Mar 24, 2011 | 07:10 PM
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i have let it warm up for a few minutes before i tried reving it. but now that i know the front valves aren't moving don't i not want it running in case of messing something else up?
Old Mar 24, 2011 | 07:25 PM
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is the only way to tell if it's the cct is by pulling off all of the covers and everything and just have to look at it?
Old Mar 24, 2011 | 07:28 PM
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4 bolts and detach the oil cooler from the frame and you've got the cover off...
Old Mar 24, 2011 | 09:51 PM
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Not sure about the valves, but it sounds like a carb issue. You should remove the valve cover if you really want to check the valves.
Old Mar 25, 2011 | 04:54 AM
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so it sounds pretty easy to get to the front one? if it does end up being the cct where and how much could i get a new one from?
Old Mar 25, 2011 | 09:03 AM
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If the engine runs with out catastrophic things happening its likely not the cam chain you should yank the carbs; they need cleaning anyway so sooner is better than later.
Old Mar 25, 2011 | 09:43 AM
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how wouldn't it be the chain if the valves aren't moving?
Old Mar 25, 2011 | 10:50 AM
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I doubt the engine would run without a lot of very unhappy sounds if the front valve train was FUBAR.

As you have already run the engine, pull the carbs, put your hand over the rubber isolator (the bit the carb mounts into) and crank the engine.
Does it suck on your hand?

If yes, clean the carbs and try to run it again.

If it does not, clean the carbs and pull the front valve cover to see what is going on.
Old Mar 25, 2011 | 11:52 AM
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i did happen to do that actually and it did not suck my hand down.
Old Mar 25, 2011 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by trey10130
i did happen to do that actually and it did not suck my hand down.
Then it sounds like you are in bad shape......
Old Mar 25, 2011 | 12:58 PM
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yeah thats what i figured. anyone have an engine i can just do a swap so much easier!
Old Mar 25, 2011 | 01:20 PM
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Before you go buying a whole bunch of stuff double check what's going on, replacing the engine is probably not the most cost efficient thing to do.

When you say that it looked like the valves weren't moving from the top of the carb, which valves were you looking at in particular?

When you look down the barrel of a carb you should see a slide needle, and a throttle plate and then it connects to the engine from the bottom of the carb (IIRC).

Double check your compression, because yes, putting your hand in front of the carb boot will tell you whether there is vacuum for the carbs but it doesn't tell you the overall comp. of the engine.
Old Mar 25, 2011 | 01:32 PM
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i was looking at the intake valves and when i had it running for a few minutes i felt the exhaust and the front cylinder clearly was not working cause it wasn't even warm
Old Mar 25, 2011 | 01:58 PM
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and if i do a compression test it isn't gonna tell me too much is it cause the valves aren't opening and closing?
Old Mar 25, 2011 | 01:59 PM
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Pulling the valve cover is really the only way to see what is going on at this point.
Old Mar 25, 2011 | 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by trey10130
and if i do a compression test it isn't gonna tell me too much is it cause the valves aren't opening and closing?
I JUST did this- a compression test can narrow it down to valves or eliminate them. If you do a compression test and it's low, the next step is to do a wet compression test.

If you put a couple drops of oil in the spark plug hole and run the compression test again, it temporarily seals the piston head/rings. If your compression then increases, it means that rings needed to be sealed and the ring or walls are bad. In other words, the temporary oil seal caused the bad piston to temporarily be less bad. If the compression stays the same between the two tests, it means there was no issue with the piston and your valves or possibly head gasket are bad... hope this helps.
Old Mar 25, 2011 | 04:33 PM
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just pull the front cover, it's 4 longish specialty head cover bolts. 2 on the bottom and 2 on the top kinda hidden behind the radiator hose and oil cooler. Check the cam chain. Is it in one piece? check your valve clearances, anything ridiculously out of spec probably means a bent valve. If the valve train was fubar I would just replace the head.
Old Mar 25, 2011 | 06:20 PM
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okay, everyone has been a big help so far, i like this forum quite a bit so far! and i plan on doing some tests and stuff to it tomorrow and i'll let you guys know what i come up with after digging in to it more.
Old Mar 27, 2011 | 11:23 AM
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so i dropped off the bike to my friends fathers house yesterday, he's way smarter than i am when it come to bikes, and he just called me and said that the front cylinder spark plug wire was being grounded through a hole in the plug boot. so my question is where can i get new boots? i've looked all over online and still can't seem to fine any. does any one know of a place that may sell them?
Old Mar 27, 2011 | 11:42 AM
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Old Mar 27, 2011 | 02:04 PM
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thanks 8541Hawk!
Old Mar 27, 2011 | 06:53 PM
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So to re-cap, that whole "valves not moving" story was in fact false.(not saying you were lying just mistaken). You were just running on one cylender both literally and figuratively...........
Old Mar 28, 2011 | 04:23 PM
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umm so he says i was mistaken. i'm still pretty sure they weren't moving but we'll see when my boots come in and he puts them on and trys it out. ha
Old Apr 12, 2011 | 04:42 PM
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I know they are all over the place on here but can someone please send me a link to both the fuel tank/fuel pump and another diagram for the carbs please!
Old May 15, 2011 | 04:33 PM
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okay so i finally took off the valve cover off alittle bit to see the cam sprocket and the chain came off and is just laying in the bottom there by the crank sprocket. so my question now is is there a link someone can give me that shows me how to retime it? and this there anything else i should look for when i do it? i plan on replace the tensioners with manual ones but i'm just wondering if i should look for anything else?



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