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HELP, will not start- Electrical

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Old 06-01-2009, 07:27 AM
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HELP, will not start- Electrical

Just went out to fire up the Hawk at work today and it wont start. I turned the key switch on and heard a light "tick", The instrument panel went blank and it will not do anything. I hit the starter or turn on a turn signal and it does absolutley nothing. The instument panel clock comes up but dies out after I attempt anything. I am guessing a main fuse somewhere but I am at work without anything.....
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Old 06-01-2009, 07:32 AM
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its a blown fuse, but you need to inspect everything related to the blown fuse circuit(s) or it will just blow more fuses. Did you do any work on the bike recently? Or change anything before this?
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Old 06-01-2009, 07:41 AM
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Angry No Joy Hawk

Check blown fuses, Ck battery connections, battery in good condition, full charged? Hope this helps.
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Old 06-01-2009, 07:59 AM
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I have done nothing to it recently. I started it up this am and rode 30 miles in to work. Then started it up again to ride 2 miles over to our offsite warehouse.

Now she does nothing.....
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Old 06-01-2009, 08:00 AM
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The battery was in great shape just 5 hrs ago and the key was not left in it or anything.


Has to be a fuse......I just wonder why...
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Old 06-01-2009, 08:04 AM
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Not to beat a dead horse, you checked connections?
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Old 06-01-2009, 08:29 AM
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there could be a power wire somewhere you can't see grounding out, causing the fuse to blow. I'd be willing to bet
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Old 06-01-2009, 09:18 AM
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I had a few minutes at lunch to go out and check it over.

1) nothing is loose.
2) no fuses blown
3) I am going to try and get a charge from our shop

It just does not make any sense why it would all of a sudden die. It started this am with no issues.
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Old 06-01-2009, 09:45 AM
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Regulator Rectifier.

Very similar situation. Rode to work Friday, started fine. Went to leave, no start. Jumped it, drove off base, died as I was leaving. Thought it might be a battery. Replaced. Starts right up, ride home. Saturday, starts fine, ride about 20 miles, stop at a gas station to wait for my friend, won't start. Bump start it. Lights are dim, then fade. Instrument cluster stops work. Made it to the clubhouse before it died.

Sun, I checked Resistance and Continuity for the stator. It's fine. Pull off the rear cowl, R/R is toast. Literally. I posted pics in my Wanted:Stator thread.
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Old 06-01-2009, 11:05 AM
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Well we put a meter on the battery and she has a dead short or drain when the key is turned on....
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Old 06-01-2009, 11:23 AM
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I experienced the same symptom, dead cell in the battery.
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Old 06-01-2009, 11:36 AM
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I would make sure it is not a blown r/r those can be some sneaky buggers, and everyone will eventually have the stock one go out anyways.
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Old 06-01-2009, 11:43 AM
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I will tear it down if I can get it home tonight......
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Old 06-01-2009, 02:09 PM
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+1 on the RR. had this happen to me. bike would go dead as a doornail if i left it for more than 3hrs.
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Old 06-01-2009, 04:05 PM
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That can be easily tested by disconnecting the R/R and then measuring...
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Old 06-01-2009, 05:02 PM
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Well, I hooked up the battery chager to see what we could diagnose. When I turn on the key switch the digital display blinks rapidly. It will not start or allow any electrical function.

I am thinking dead short in the harness somewhere......
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Old 06-01-2009, 07:15 PM
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1st, have you measured voltages?
What's the battery's sitting voltage, and its voltage when you turn on key?
Tighten the battery terminals good?

On the left side next to the seat, under the cowl is your main fuse and start switch.
It has a red cover over the main-fuse. unsnap the two retainers on each side and wiggle/pull/cuss this off.
If the 4 blades or their sockets are corroded you will need to clean this up.
Then pull out the main fuse and check the socket for overheating or corrosion.
This one little device can cause you to chase you tail more than anything.
A cleaner called "de-oxit" is made by aliens and has super powers.
I suggest getting yourself some if faced with any glitchy corroded terminals.
(or data card slots)
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Old 06-01-2009, 07:16 PM
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Dead cell in the battery. Happens suddenly and is deadly. If your battery is older than two years you are a prime candidate. If it will not accept a charge and VOM is showing a dead short - it's toast.
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Old 06-02-2009, 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Circuit_Burner
1st, have you measured voltages?
What's the battery's sitting voltage, and its voltage when you turn on key?
Tighten the battery terminals good?

On the left side next to the seat, under the cowl is your main fuse and start switch.
It has a red cover over the main-fuse. unsnap the two retainers on each side and wiggle/pull/cuss this off.
If the 4 blades or their sockets are corroded you will need to clean this up.
Then pull out the main fuse and check the socket for overheating or corrosion.
This one little device can cause you to chase you tail more than anything.
A cleaner called "de-oxit" is made by aliens and has super powers.
I suggest getting yourself some if faced with any glitchy corroded terminals.
(or data card slots)
Idle voltage is 12 volts. I will check it tonight with switch turned on.

All connections (Battery - Fuse) looked good yesterday but I will inspect closer tonight.
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Old 06-02-2009, 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by nuhawk
Dead cell in the battery. Happens suddenly and is deadly. If your battery is older than two years you are a prime candidate. If it will not accept a charge and VOM is showing a dead short - it's toast.
This is what my mechanic friend told me this am also.
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Old 06-02-2009, 05:03 AM
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Mine did pretty much the same thing. 2003 w/ 1750 miles from used dealer in 2007. Worked ok for a couple months, stock Yuasa just dies. Can charge/jump/bump but no fire from itself. Changed it and all was good. https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...hlight=battery

Last edited by LineArrayNut; 06-02-2009 at 05:10 AM.
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Old 06-04-2009, 08:17 PM
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Because of their size, bike batteries will not tolerate more than one or two deep drawdowns like a car battery. Once this happens, you usually have to buy a new battery.
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