bzera

Ok see what you guys are saying.

I'm pretty sure with what I've done it's getting fuel from carbs like it should. I've cleaned them about 5 times now. Swished out gas tank with seafoam then replaced with premium. Gas looks clean as can be. Filter in the tank looks clean as can be. Both lines getting fuel.

After recently not starting after cleanings I checked spark. I have none. Brand new battery and its reading good. So I would have to assume its part of the ignition system since I recently replaced r/r.

So I went to 17-3 of manual and did the troubleshooting no spark at plugs. So I followed everything in order I think. Right away low peak voltage. All over the place low but never hitting 100. Maybe 75v peak once but mostly like 30 or so. Checked connections they all seemed fine. Maybe faulty side stand or nuetral switch?

Having hard time trying to diagnose past step 4 of low peak voltage.

Also someone asked. I do not know anybody with a hawk and I live in IL about 1.5 hours southwest of Chicago right off route 80.

As always thanks everyone

Badboy01

Bzera, it looks like you have addressed many of the issues, but I'm sure the forum can assist. I purchased my 2005 Hawk a few weeks ago at only 12.6K miles. She was running fine up until last week when she stopped cold on me. I had her towed to the shop, and after joining the forum, began to research common causes including R/R. The shop took my bike out today for over a half hour, and she ran fine, but I want to address further concerns before they happen. I plan to keep my Hawk as beautiful as she is, and I have ridden other bikes including an R1, and Harley that I don't enjoy nearly as much! Hang in there, and I'm sure there are many here who will come to your assistance.

NZSpokes

First thing is to check your oil level. Yes the oil level. Has it increased? Does it smell of fuel? A common fault with motorcycles is the float valves wearing and letting excess fuel into the carbs which drains into the motor. Our bikes seem prone to this. Easy to fix and would cause the problems you describe.

Next when it is running check its running voltage at the battery. Shouldnt be over 14v. Run the motor up to 5000k rpm and check.

If when it wont start, pull a plug lead and fit an old plug to it and rest it against the motor and try to start watching the plug. Should have a strong blue spark. If not check coils and pulse generator.

thats a bit to start with.

Good luck. But im picking float valves.

Wicky

With the R/R dying you still might want to try putting in a new battery. Make sure terminals are connected tightly and are all clean along with earths etc.

bzera

Changed oil. Checked spark. It's new battery and reading good. Had two sets of plugs tried both neither gave spark. After hours of manual reading and forum reading its time for electrical tests. Icm, pulse generator, and ignition coils. I know electricity, no pro but any tips would be great. Just planning trying to work step by step with manual which can be difficult.

Thanks as always for the many great outside perspectives and time!

smokinjoe73

bzera, do only one fix at a time, then ask specific (consise) questions as you go.

Its hard to read so much info and get a grip on what is even going wrong.

Gather your thoughts and double space every so often to ease reading.

OK, so what is the specific problem right now?

My first suggestion is to drain and clean the fuel tank, then fill with new gas. I also recommend fuel filters. Sefoam is kinda like lipstick on the hog if you have a cruddy tank.

Every time a peice of crud travels from tank to tiny carb jet you just ruined everythng you just did to fix stuff.

7moore7

Yeah like Joe said, let's work through what is known rather than just throwing the whole lot of band-aids on the problem.

So here is what I'm reading: You bought it and it ran OK but the throttle was sticking. You cleaned carbs and replaced air fiter and plugs, and then it ran good. Was/is the throttle still sticking?

Then the R/R went out. You replaced it and electronics seemed to be back in order and it was running fine again. Then it died on you and didn't re-start. Was the battery dead? Was it turning over but not catching? Then you cleaned the carbs and it was running again? So when it's running it runs pretty good, but it's intermittent? From those fixes it sounded like a fuel issue, but if you're not getting spark...

How did you check for spark? If that's not working it could be your coils, but when the R/R's go out on these things they can fry the ECU and/or ICM and those are tough to pinpoint. Easiest way I know of is to find someone with a running hawk and swap those two working components in to make sure you're not chasing those gremlins. Where are you located?

Was the tank cruddy or did you just put seafoam in to make sure that wasn't the problem?

rz_racer_69

I'm no mechanic, but if I remember correctly, an internal combustion engine only needs fuel air spark and compression to run. A hot running bike that suddenly fails is losing something and that commonly is due to components heating up an failing when hot, or fuel supply being affected after running a bit. Air supply and compression are not likely affected by running for five minutes. Have you considered some sort of fuel related problem, such as a vacuum buildup in your tank? Next time you run it, and it fails, open your gas cap and close it. Then try to start it again.

rz_racer_69

Whoops, you found no spark! Your reply came in before mine, lol. Looks like you are on to something now.

8541Hawk

Pull the kill switch apart and clean it then check all your grounds (earths) to make sure they are tight and corrosion free

bzera

Ok see what you guys are saying.

I'm pretty sure with what I've done it's getting fuel from carbs like it should. I've cleaned them about 5 times now. Swished out gas tank with seafoam then replaced with premium. Gas looks clean as can be. Filter in the tank looks clean as can be. Both lines getting fuel.

After recently not starting after cleanings I checked spark. I have none. Brand new battery and its reading good. So I would have to assume its part of the ignition system since I recently replaced r/r.

So I went to 17-3 of manual and did the troubleshooting no spark at plugs. So I followed everything in order I think. Right away low peak voltage. All over the place low but never hitting 100. Maybe 75v peak once but mostly like 30 or so. Checked connections they all seemed fine. Maybe faulty side stand or nuetral switch?

Having hard time trying to diagnose past step 4 of low peak voltage.

nnjhawk02

Hmmm - no spark it may be the CDI aka Converter Unit- gray unit behind the R/R.

mine went 4 years (a 2002 VTR) - make sure ur working in a quiet place - turn the key to on - put ur ear by the R/R / CDI - If u hear a buzzing / humming noise it's the CDI unit.

Good luck

bzera

No humming from R/R area or box behind it. I'm checking it anyway but I don't think it's kill switch because according to troubleshooting there should be no peak voltage if that's the case

bzera

Ok restarted troubleshooting in manual from square one.

Fuel reaches carbs so spark test. No spark.

Not faulty or fouled plug tried 3 diff sets 2 new.

Checked all ignition system wires they are good.

Not plug wires. Checked pulse generator. Pulled icm matched up yellow and white yellow. Had it set to lowest dc setting. I think 2000 ma-v? Anyway it's 3 number output. Reads like 003-007. Irradic though and only hit 7 once. So I'm guessing that's bad pulse generator? I don't wanna buy it n not be positive so opinions?

Kurt999

I presume you are using the Honda workshop manual.

Are you using a peak voltage adaptor with a digital meter?

I don't think you can rely on your readings without the adaptor?

Good luck with your trouble shooting

bzera

Yes and yes. I made a homemade peak voltage adapter since they are expensive and such limited use.

I think it's been soooo hard to diagnose cus it's intermittent.

I'm starting to wonder if its something like a short. After replacing Icm and converter starts up and runs smooth. Backfires on decel. My odometer went out again after replacing it with a mofset R/R. I'm so confused.

smokinjoe73

I am gonna bet bad RR, bad battery (how old is it), or if no spark ignition coils.

Have you done the baseline stuff like battery standing voltage, then when running, then revved?

If those base things are iffy, then you will get crazy symptoms from everything else (dash goes nuts, etc)

What are the battery voltages standing and while running?