2000 HAWK TROUBLES
05-18-2014, 06:40 PM
#2
Member
Squid
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 58
I think few more details could be good.
You put in new gas in the tank?
I assume you say jet kit so no longer stock? If so u may need a air/fuel screw adjustment on the carbs. I haven't done it but from what I've read it can be a tough one to figure.
I assume u took off choke?
Did you check the air/fuel screws when you took the carbs off to make sure they were adjusted to stock setting?
Are you very sure your vaccum lines are/were hooked up correctly?
How does the air filter look? Is it stock?
New stock non iridium plugs might be good idea.
If your having alot of troubles might be good to switch back to stock jets and try to get it running right like that first.
Might be easier to give a good diagnosis with few more details
You put in new gas in the tank?
I assume you say jet kit so no longer stock? If so u may need a air/fuel screw adjustment on the carbs. I haven't done it but from what I've read it can be a tough one to figure.
I assume u took off choke?
Did you check the air/fuel screws when you took the carbs off to make sure they were adjusted to stock setting?
Are you very sure your vaccum lines are/were hooked up correctly?
How does the air filter look? Is it stock?
New stock non iridium plugs might be good idea.
If your having alot of troubles might be good to switch back to stock jets and try to get it running right like that first.
Might be easier to give a good diagnosis with few more details
Last edited by bzera; 05-18-2014 at 06:43 PM.
05-18-2014, 11:08 PM
#3
Deals Gap is a Hoot!
Back Marker
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: St. Louis, Mizzery
Posts: 104
Bzera is right you did not give us much to go on !
You mentioned this problem started prior to the work you did to the bike, correct?
You mentioned that you cleaned the carbs and installed an aftermarket jet kit along with a Thermostat, New Dunlop Q2 tires, Brakes and a new Battery.
The very first thing I would do is to pull the front spark plug and check to see if your getting a good blue spark that snaps on each spark!
If your not getting spark we can talk about that later...
The second thing I would do is to see if your getting fuel in the front cylinder, install the spark plug in the head but not the cap and crank it over a few times, then pull the plug and see if its wet, if the plug is wet means your getting fuel to the cylinders so that's good!
If the plug is dry check your fuel lines to make sure they are not pinched off starving the motor for fuel and shutting down.
I would also check the petcock diaphragm by using a turkey baster a short length of hose connected to the vacuum port on the petcock and the syringe.
Squeeze the turkey baster and connect the line to the petcock vacuum port and the syringe, if the syringes looses vacuum you have a dry rotted diaphragm.
Do this test several times to make sure both ends are connected to the syringe and your getting good vacuum on the petcock.
The Super Hawk will NOT run if you have a bad or leaking vacuum line or bad diaphragm on the tank petcock!
This could have been your problem prior to cleaning the carb, oh BTW while your at it check the petcock screen or filter to make sure its not plugged up keeping the bike from running.
Electrical tests
If for some reason your Super Hawk does not have spark on the forward cylinder with the plug off the head but connected to the plug cap and grounded, simply put the key in the ignition and place the bike in front of your house down the block hoping someone steals it!
Just kidding, Honda's have pretty good electronics and usually don't fail unless the electrical connections have corroded, overheated and failed.
The first place to look is the main line coming off the stator to the bikes harness at the base of the fuel tank on the left hand side.
You can visually inspect this connection to look for signs of overheating and melting, if this connection fails the bike will not run.
I would check the kill switch wire to make sure its not broken or grounding out on the frame.
If this does not work get back to us so we can try to help get her running.
SIRR1
You mentioned that you cleaned the carbs and installed an aftermarket jet kit along with a Thermostat, New Dunlop Q2 tires, Brakes and a new Battery.
The very first thing I would do is to pull the front spark plug and check to see if your getting a good blue spark that snaps on each spark!
If your not getting spark we can talk about that later...
The second thing I would do is to see if your getting fuel in the front cylinder, install the spark plug in the head but not the cap and crank it over a few times, then pull the plug and see if its wet, if the plug is wet means your getting fuel to the cylinders so that's good!
If the plug is dry check your fuel lines to make sure they are not pinched off starving the motor for fuel and shutting down.
I would also check the petcock diaphragm by using a turkey baster a short length of hose connected to the vacuum port on the petcock and the syringe.
Squeeze the turkey baster and connect the line to the petcock vacuum port and the syringe, if the syringes looses vacuum you have a dry rotted diaphragm.
Do this test several times to make sure both ends are connected to the syringe and your getting good vacuum on the petcock.
The Super Hawk will NOT run if you have a bad or leaking vacuum line or bad diaphragm on the tank petcock!
This could have been your problem prior to cleaning the carb, oh BTW while your at it check the petcock screen or filter to make sure its not plugged up keeping the bike from running.
Electrical tests
If for some reason your Super Hawk does not have spark on the forward cylinder with the plug off the head but connected to the plug cap and grounded, simply put the key in the ignition and place the bike in front of your house down the block hoping someone steals it!
Just kidding, Honda's have pretty good electronics and usually don't fail unless the electrical connections have corroded, overheated and failed.
The first place to look is the main line coming off the stator to the bikes harness at the base of the fuel tank on the left hand side.
You can visually inspect this connection to look for signs of overheating and melting, if this connection fails the bike will not run.
I would check the kill switch wire to make sure its not broken or grounding out on the frame.
If this does not work get back to us so we can try to help get her running.
SIRR1
05-19-2014, 04:08 AM
#4
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New South Wales Australia
Posts: 1,544
Check the stupid plastic choke cable fittings where the cable goes into the carbs.
Sounds like how mine ran when one of them cracked!!
Replaced both and good as new.
Long shot but worth a try.
Sounds like how mine ran when one of them cracked!!
Replaced both and good as new.
Long shot but worth a try.
05-19-2014, 10:13 PM
#6
Deals Gap is a Hoot!
Back Marker
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: St. Louis, Mizzery
Posts: 104
Air Filter
I have a good K+N air filter that I am not going to use, I went back to the OEM air filter.
$25.00 and I will ship it to your house.
Personally I think your tossing money at the problem hopeful to get something that works but I don't think that will work this time unless you take it too a competent Honda mechanic that can figure out your carbs.
If it was me I would go back to the OEM carb set up get her running good and then add your performance mods one item at a time.
SIRR1
$25.00 and I will ship it to your house.
Personally I think your tossing money at the problem hopeful to get something that works but I don't think that will work this time unless you take it too a competent Honda mechanic that can figure out your carbs.
If it was me I would go back to the OEM carb set up get her running good and then add your performance mods one item at a time.
SIRR1
06-18-2014, 01:21 PM
#7
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Nooksack WA
Posts: 834
Why do you say no compression? Is that seat of the pants or measured?
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