A few pics of my fork spring swap
02-12-2012, 06:02 PM
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Location: Gettysburg, Pa
Posts: 5,072
A few pics of my fork spring swap
Finished up my Race Tech spring install today. I snapped a few pics in case anyone is searching for info.
First let me say if you haven't changed your fork fluid in the last 5 years, shame on you!! The stuff that's in there is TOAST!!
This is the fluid:
This is what came out after two flushes w/ brake parts cleaner:
And my fluid was just changed 3 seasons ago! So seriously, get that fluid changed!!! Filled the forks w/ new fluid. 130mm gap, fork tubes fully compressed, no springs.
Moving on, cut the spacer yadda yadda.
Mine was 68mm. I haven't put the forks back on to set sag and verify the 68 is perfect soo.
UPDATE: The 68mm allowed me to set sag no problem. I'm at the 2nd line on the preload adjuster.
Putting things back together, I noticed the Race Tech provided washers are too large to get past the threads in my forks. I took several pics:
So I reused the oem ones.
New spring is in, washer on top, fork tube fully compressed.
Add spacer, washer, and "spring seat"
Screw rebound in till notch is flush w/ preload top and dot lines up w/ sticker, then screw cap onto rod:
Gently seat then lightly lock the two together...thighten down cap and viola, I'm done. Like I said, this isn't so much of a how to but a helping hand if someone needs it.
If you have anything to add to this to help out someone in need, please do so. I searched for hours to try and find some pics w/ very little success. I wasn't sure how far down the rod the cap should have been threaded. So hopefully I got everything right.
First let me say if you haven't changed your fork fluid in the last 5 years, shame on you!! The stuff that's in there is TOAST!!
This is the fluid:
This is what came out after two flushes w/ brake parts cleaner:
And my fluid was just changed 3 seasons ago! So seriously, get that fluid changed!!! Filled the forks w/ new fluid. 130mm gap, fork tubes fully compressed, no springs.
Moving on, cut the spacer yadda yadda.
Mine was 68mm. I haven't put the forks back on to set sag and verify the 68 is perfect soo.
UPDATE: The 68mm allowed me to set sag no problem. I'm at the 2nd line on the preload adjuster.
Putting things back together, I noticed the Race Tech provided washers are too large to get past the threads in my forks. I took several pics:
So I reused the oem ones.
New spring is in, washer on top, fork tube fully compressed.
Add spacer, washer, and "spring seat"
Screw rebound in till notch is flush w/ preload top and dot lines up w/ sticker, then screw cap onto rod:
Gently seat then lightly lock the two together...thighten down cap and viola, I'm done. Like I said, this isn't so much of a how to but a helping hand if someone needs it.
If you have anything to add to this to help out someone in need, please do so. I searched for hours to try and find some pics w/ very little success. I wasn't sure how far down the rod the cap should have been threaded. So hopefully I got everything right.
Last edited by Wolverine; 07-15-2012 at 01:25 PM. Reason: confirm spacer length
02-12-2012, 06:29 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Fulton, MO
Posts: 105,287
How far you thread that cap is VERY important. Follow these steps:
- Loosen the locknut
- Back the cap off several turns
- Screw the rebound adjuster in so the dots match and the screw head is flush with the preload adjuster
- Gently screw the cap back down
- When you feel resistance the rebound adjuster has seated
- NOW tighten the locknut, making sure to use your 14mm wrench on the preload adjuster for counter torque
- Now set your rebound adjuster where you want it
- Rinse and repeat on the other side
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