engine tear down
#1
Jack of all Master of non
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Jacksonville,fl
Posts: 297
really need help
i found a few things during my engine tear down i thought i would ask about that i can not find the answer in the manual
-pulled the clutch cover and looking at the oil pump and water pump chains, they are very loose. is that normal to be realy loose?
-i also took the clutch plates out and the internal clutch basket has alot of slop in it( rotates about 1/2 turn before it engages) is that normal?
-also the water pump impeller is tough to spin it does not spin freely, is that normal?
any help for this stuff would be great, thanks
-pulled the clutch cover and looking at the oil pump and water pump chains, they are very loose. is that normal to be realy loose?
-i also took the clutch plates out and the internal clutch basket has alot of slop in it( rotates about 1/2 turn before it engages) is that normal?
-also the water pump impeller is tough to spin it does not spin freely, is that normal?
any help for this stuff would be great, thanks
Last edited by 3amta3; 07-14-2011 at 02:35 AM.
#3
I've never torn into mine that deep.
But I don't think the impeller should be hard to turn.. and some people have had them shear off (though not many) so you might want to look into that.
the pump chains should have a rated amount of slack in the service manual somewhere. I wouldn't be surprised if they are quite loose as there aren't many dynamic forces on them, so unlike cam chains they don't have a tendency to skip.. But I don't KNOW this for a fact.
I am sure someone has a clutch answer for you, people tear into these fairly often.
But I don't think the impeller should be hard to turn.. and some people have had them shear off (though not many) so you might want to look into that.
the pump chains should have a rated amount of slack in the service manual somewhere. I wouldn't be surprised if they are quite loose as there aren't many dynamic forces on them, so unlike cam chains they don't have a tendency to skip.. But I don't KNOW this for a fact.
I am sure someone has a clutch answer for you, people tear into these fairly often.
#4
#5
Never saw this thread......
So is lazn correct, the chains do look loose when they are not moving.
As for the clutch play, is the trans in gear (which gear) or neutral?
And how are you trying to spin the impeller? Is it all together and your are spinning the shaft or is it partially disassembled?
So is lazn correct, the chains do look loose when they are not moving.
As for the clutch play, is the trans in gear (which gear) or neutral?
And how are you trying to spin the impeller? Is it all together and your are spinning the shaft or is it partially disassembled?
#6
It depends on the pump. How does it feel? Does it feel like it's grinding when you turn the water pump? There will be some ristance from the pump seal, but it shouldn't be too much. As for the chains, I can't imagine that both chains have stretched a whole bunch. If there is any doubt about them however, replace them. They are cheap insurance if you think about it.
#7
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Jacksonville,fl
Posts: 297
well for starters, both of the chains are very loose(more than 7mm for sure) they are both less than 20.00 so probably good idea to just change anyway.
my water pump is tight enought when turning that it hurts my fingers on the impeller when i turn it, that is with it in the case. the only thing i did was pull the case off and checked it.
the clutch is apart, all plates out of it. with the outter drum stationary and bike in gear the center drum will spin about one half turn before the gears engage
my water pump is tight enought when turning that it hurts my fingers on the impeller when i turn it, that is with it in the case. the only thing i did was pull the case off and checked it.
the clutch is apart, all plates out of it. with the outter drum stationary and bike in gear the center drum will spin about one half turn before the gears engage
#8
well for starters, both of the chains are very loose(more than 7mm for sure) they are both less than 20.00 so probably good idea to just change anyway.
my water pump is tight enought when turning that it hurts my fingers on the impeller when i turn it, that is with it in the case. the only thing i did was pull the case off and checked it.
the clutch is apart, all plates out of it. with the outter drum stationary and bike in gear the center drum will spin about one half turn before the gears engage
my water pump is tight enought when turning that it hurts my fingers on the impeller when i turn it, that is with it in the case. the only thing i did was pull the case off and checked it.
the clutch is apart, all plates out of it. with the outter drum stationary and bike in gear the center drum will spin about one half turn before the gears engage
The impeller sounds like it is not installed correctly. It shouldn't be that hard to turn. You might want to pull the cover and see if something is stuck in there or if you can see any wear marks from things rubbing.
The clutch sounds about normal, to of course it can be hard to tell over the net.
If you were experiencing no transmission issues before, I wouldn't worry about it. This play is normal and is what causes the "clunk" when you shift from neutral into first when the bike is stationary.
#9
Jack of all Master of non
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Jacksonville,fl
Posts: 297
i shifts very hard from nutral to 1st gear but who knows if that is it... i think it might be the starter clutch bearing because the noise is comming from the left lower side of the bike. i will break it down more this weekend and se what i find.
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