So, Thinking my baby was ready for Spring - I rode down to Philly to see some friends on Thursday -Friday on way back - with a slight hangover. The instrument cluster went out - no tach, speedo, temp., etc.

I knew I was low on gas, so I crossed in NJ (cheaper petrol than Pa - I was on Rt.32 north of New Hope, Pa)

So U know what happens next - VTR doesn't start - (I have a new battery BTW)

So I jump start it and continue the road home - within 10 mins. it starts losing power, stalls as I'm riding & I just jump it again.

Then it starts to backfire & I decide to cut my loses and pulled over & called the AMA towing service.

So, I'm thinking CDI unit? or R/R? (These have both been replaced, but not recently)

CDI unit was replaced July 2010 and the R/R I think in '08 or '09.

I don't have a multimeter - so info from the class would help

Some pics from breakdown area & tow







And if U don't have a tow service - I would join the AMA - U get free towing for all ur vehicles - Yes thats right - cars too and it includes ur family as well. (Free towing up to 35 miles) I was 20 miles from home.

 

What did you replace the R/R with OE or upgrade? Did you have a look at its wiring harness? Mine was starting to show signs of heat fatigue.

 

Found my receipt for the R/R - from Ricks OEM style from 5 years ago.

And yes one of the wiring harnesses with I think all yellow wires has heat stress.

Course of action now should be what?

Clip the wires and get a new connectors?

Thanks

 

See post #1.

 

Giddyup

Ordering stuff to commence

FYI - the wiring harness that I looked out that was distressed was under the seat & not the R/R connector. I will check that as well.

Thanks

And would U suggest a R1 type R/R or the Mosfet?

 

Yes a Mosfet R/R is the best option
you will need one with on it FH ****
Do a search for : wich R/R and you will find anything you need

 

So started to take apart the VTR

And - I relooked at the alternator connector (located by behind gas tank)

might this be the culprit?

I'm going to change this and see if that was the problem.

Alt. Connector



As the R/R connector doesn't looked burned - thus I'm not sure if the R/R is the problem

 

I would change it anyways...Eastern Beaver harness and Mosfet R/R..no worries..

 

I would get the Eastern Beaver wiring kit, plugs right in nice new connections and wires AND a new MOSFET R/R as you don't know if your old one is bad and no easy way to test.

Plus the MOSFET ones are better than the crappy OEM ones the bike came with.
Read this, explains the difference and a big plus gives you a list of what R/R's are MOSFET

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...why-how-25117/

 

Thanks guys

I will be ordering the MOSFET & new connectors.

1 thing though

Eastern Beavers web site is confusing - do they sell R/R units or just wiring kits?

 

So I learned that Eastern Beaver does not sell R/R - just wiring kits.

Jim from EB emailed me back yesterday & stated as such & told me what wiring kits I needed & to order a FH020 R/R, as that is the latest tech on the MOSFET units.

I went to ebay & or got this

Universal Motorcycle Regulator Upgrade Kit Shindengen MOSFET FH020AA | eBay

And free fast shipping as well.

I hope my failed R/R hasn't screwed up my new battery.

 

I ordered my R/R wiring kit from Shindengen FH020AA Mosfet Regulator/Rectifier I got the R/R on e-bay on it's own, it's a quick and easy install. Solder free if you just want to use the crimp connections.

I'm not sure if it could have permanently damaged the battery, but R/R failures can junk clusters from time to time. Hopefully everything lights up once you get it up and running again.

 

You won't regret that purchase Rhino. High quality connectors and everything in one makes it convenient. Follow that swap thread and don't forget to slide the boots on before you crimp. Your R/R will no longer be an issue.

 

10-4

Thanks

Just ordered the EB kits. Hope to be on the road shortly.


I'll have to ride to G-Burg to see the sites

 

Part of the problem may be that you top case tips the wrong way and causes un-needed instability away from bike center of mass.

Tilt it forward/ closer and the bike will handle and (maybe) run better.

 

U funny round eye

 

1st - sorry if I come off dumb here, but help me, if ya would - thanks

OK - I'm finally getting around to installing the new MOSFET R/R. As stated I have a Eastern Beaver wiring kits - EB known as A & B.

EB A is easy into black R/R connector, then to battery.

EB B is where I'm confused. I know where it goes for the R/R (thats easy there's only one more connection left), but I plug into the OEM female Alternator connector, but I've bypassed the OEM male alt. connector.

I'm guessing I don't need it anymore?

This male alt plug

 

HMmmm

I think I got it.

The OEM Alt male 3 yellow wires went to the OEM connector for the OEM R/R - correct?

And now I don't need them, si?

 

Wake the kids & Call the neighbors, I finally got my baby back together & RUNNING!

Was very frustrating, especially the alternator wires (3), tiny & not enough slack after I clipped off the old female connector. So with a MOSFET R/R & a Eastern Beaver wiring kit, its all working now.

I was so happy to have it running that I washed & waxed her too.

I really hate working with things in tight spaces.

Now I just need to change a flat on the Mtn Bike & clear coat the wifes vans hood after I did some body work - I man's job is never done...