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Cush Drive replacement? How often? When?

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Old 06-12-2007, 04:53 PM
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Question Cush Drive replacement? How often? When?

I've been reading all the threads I can find on the subject of the rubber cush drive inserts in the rear wheel/sprocket carrier...but I have yet to find a defititive answer as to when they are 'worn' and need to be replaced.

They are a cheap (Sub $30 part) so If there's any question, I suppose I should just fork over the $$ and get new ones, but I don't want to spend money if I don't have to.

So...how does one tell when the cush drive inserts are 'shot' and need to be replaced? I remember reading some time ago that the VTR Race bike (I think it was moriwaki) had to replace them every 2-3 races. I realize that they had much more HP/Torque and much more severe use...but I'm still wondering if mine are shot after 35000 miles?
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Old 06-12-2007, 05:11 PM
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I'd be interested to know this too.The last time I took my wheel off,one of them was broke in half but everything still fit tight.
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Old 06-12-2007, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by RPV-Hawk
I've been reading all the threads I can find on the subject of the rubber cush drive inserts in the rear wheel/sprocket carrier...but I have yet to find a defititive answer as to when they are 'worn' and need to be replaced.

They are a cheap (Sub $30 part) so If there's any question, I suppose I should just fork over the $$ and get new ones, but I don't want to spend money if I don't have to.

So...how does one tell when the cush drive inserts are 'shot' and need to be replaced? I remember reading some time ago that the VTR Race bike (I think it was moriwaki) had to replace them every 2-3 races. I realize that they had much more HP/Torque and much more severe use...but I'm still wondering if mine are shot after 35000 miles?
I've never seen any "spec" on those. I would just treat them like bearings and check the hub for free play and inspect all the rubbers. If they have become hard and you have free play, then replace them. If you are sure, see if you have room for rubber strips in addition to the cush drive rubbers (like strips from an old bicycle inner tube) - if you do and can still mount the hub, probably worth changing.
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Old 06-12-2007, 06:11 PM
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I think the dynamics of the product are different than "loose fit". Certainly for thirty bucks loose fit would be thrown out in an instant. These types of compounds can be fine for a long time and go to **** in no time. I pulled a set recently and every "bridge" just dusted. Sorry - for $30 bucks they will never go back in a bike. With used, unknown parts it's just not worth the risk. Jerk the bearings out, throw away the cheap **** and do it right.
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Old 06-12-2007, 06:14 PM
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I replaced mine at about 35k because i wanted to lessen the drivetrain lash, and it seemed to help a bit. The new ones were alot softer and more supple, and for the money it was worth it. That said, I think you could leave them in for a dogs age and never have problems, it just makes things a little smoother at low rpm.
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Old 06-12-2007, 06:19 PM
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I got mine replace by installing a newer lower miles cbr900rr rear wheel that came with the drive unit. The old (original?) ones were starting to break apart at the connections.

You notice a tighter, less sloppy feel especially coming out of a corner on the gas. Starts were smoother too.
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Old 06-12-2007, 08:02 PM
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I replaced mine around 15,000 miles. I had a bit of freeplay back and forth. I now have 30,000 miles on the bike. The replacements definately held up better than the originals.
By the way you really shouldn't be able to move your sprocket back and forth .It should be a snug fit. I usually spray them down with wd40 to slide the sprocket carrier in place.
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Old 06-12-2007, 08:15 PM
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Sorry, I missed making part of my point. These plastics have an "age expectation" and then **** happens. The plastics get brittle with age/exposure to lubricants. Under extreme stress the chambers could all burst at once - not likely but catastrophic for the rider.

If you're really into it and one bursts - are you much better? When the chambers burst you're on your side or the side of the road. Call Mama for the trailer - and a thirty dollar part.

This kind of maintenance on a bike that is built like a Swiss watch is a no-brainer! I wouldn't toss a cush drive every time I change rubber but after 5 years I would. I would at least change them out and inspect the old set for wear and signs of cracking. They will crack before they crumble.

If they look good hold them over for track days on the f4. Exact same size as the Superhawk version just has a thicker boot.
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Old 06-16-2007, 08:22 PM
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I don't recommend WD-40 on the cush rubbers. Some lubricants have a degrading effect on rubber. Not sure about WD though. I have my original cush rubbers and currently have 41k miles. I think the key (which I learned from a dealer a long time ago) is to use a silicone spray on the rubbers every time you change the rear tire. Mine look like new and they have no sign of deterioration at all.
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Old 06-17-2007, 10:52 AM
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Other than the Honda shop, where do we find a replacement for our cush drive? Is the part $30 from the dealer?
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Old 06-17-2007, 01:08 PM
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You can get the cush drive part for $26-$29 via internet honda parts websites.
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Old 06-30-2011, 08:56 AM
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what is that web site?
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Old 06-30-2011, 09:34 AM
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Honda, ATV Parts, Scooter Parts, Motorcycle Parts,CRF,CR,MX Parts, Goldwing parts

$24.47 for the set.
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Old 06-30-2011, 09:54 AM
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I dont know what the service interval on them is, but when I changed my chain and sprockets a few weeks ago mine were perfect at 33k miles. I suppose they should last at least that long.
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