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Coolant in OIL!!!!

Old 11-02-2015, 10:42 AM
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Unhappy Coolant in OIL!!!!

Hi everyone, long time stalker, first time poster. Have a 98 HAWK I resurrected from sitting for about 7 years, picked it up for $900. Has 14k miles and has been dropped on both sides but from the looks nothing serious. Have had it now for 6 months and have been slowly going thru fixing all the little problems. This forum along with the UK forum have truly been invaluable to me. Thanks guys.


Now to my problem......So I recently was getting gas in my oil because both the petcock valve rubbers were deteriorated and one carb float valve needle rubber was ripped thus letting copious amounts of gas into my oil. I ended up replacing the petcock and putting new needles in. Fixed my problem. I did though drive the bike with that bad mix of gas and oil unknowningly.


So now immediately after replacing everything and not getting anymore gas in my oil, I now have coolant in my oil. Yay! I checked the compression and have 180 in both. Im still leaning towards the head gasket blown or possible water pump seal???? even though the weep hole for the pump is dry, can I still get coolant in my oil or should I just assume the worst and replace the head gaskets? I haven't done a pressure test on the radiator but will look today to see if there are bubbles flowing thru the radiator. Also Im losing about a full cup of coolant every 4 days into the oil and no I am not driving it. Thanks for any input!

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Old 11-03-2015, 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Trickedouthawk View Post
...Also Im losing about a full cup of coolant every 4 days into the oil and no I am not driving it...
Are you saying coolant is going to the oil pan without running the engine?

Or are you saying you run it and then find low coolant condition?
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Old 11-03-2015, 09:30 AM
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Sorry, that came out confusing. I would ride it to work for a few days and would be checking the coolant level at night when I came home and would notice it slightly lower each day until around day 4 it would start to overheat very slightly but still noticeable, so I would end up refilling with about a large cup full to get back to proper level.

I have also been monitoring the oil by the sightglass. It gets slowly more milkshake like as the days go by and coolant level gets mysteriously lower.


Im hoping the internal engine parts havn't been too badly stressed by all the extra pressure. Checked the compression and they both held good pressure.
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Old 11-03-2015, 10:03 AM
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Front and Rear both read the same. Heading to Autozone to pick up a radiator pressure tester to see if it holds pressure or not. My question though , is will it leak pressure if water pump seal is damaged? I know this is a good way to see if the head gasket is blown and leaking into the radiator. Don't really want to run her anymore but want to narrow it down so I don't end up just throwing parts at it.
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Old 11-03-2015, 01:41 PM
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Are you positive the weephole is remaining dry at all times, even while running? (I didn't think the '98s even had weepholes. I thought they added those to later years.)

Given the good compression readings it seems more likely to me something's going on with the pump, especially if it sat around without being run for years. You could send your coolant for analysis if you have the coolant that came with the bike. If lubricating chemistry is wrong it would show up.

Any funny odor to the exhaust? By no means always but usually a blown head gasket results in odd smelling exhaust fumes and spark plug darkening.
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Old 11-03-2015, 02:52 PM
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Crankenfine thanks for making me go take a pic of the weep hole. Upon further inspections it looks saturated around the hole. I guess I wasn't close enough to see it. just ordered all the seals gaskets and bearing. Pretty happy that its pointing to this instead of the head gaskets. Too bad I ordered the head gaskets already. Anyone need a pair???? Don't plan on keeping, going up on ebay if not.
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Old 11-03-2015, 02:55 PM
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What the earlier models lacked was a drain tube I believe. Mine obviously does not have one. And you can see the thin film of rust going down the cover
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Old 11-03-2015, 03:23 PM
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So since Im going to be taking off the right side cover and since the bike had been dropped the cover has developed some hairline cracks that I was hoping to jbweld until I found one used. What do you guys think. A friend of mine tried welding a similar cover and failed so I figure I can just smear some good ol jbweld and call it day. New it goes for a lil under $200 but would rather spend that on something else for the hawk


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Old 11-03-2015, 03:24 PM
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Old 11-03-2015, 03:25 PM
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Old 11-03-2015, 03:26 PM
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And Here is a pic of my beauty
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Old 11-06-2015, 03:15 PM
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Old 11-19-2015, 01:45 PM
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Update!

So, I decided to get a new clutch cover. After removing all the seals for the pump, I had everything out and all that was left was the thin metal on the mechanical sealName:  IMAG0614_zpsroyyj5sz.jpg
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So I managed to score the **** out of the where the seals sit. Wasn't too mad because I was gonna replace anyway but that's what I get for rushing the last step. Thought I'd post this so no one else makes the same mistake.
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also in case anyone has a hard time getting the impeller out, I ended up just brute force slamming it on a rubber mat on my garage floor and it came out. Couldn't find my c-clamps.

I already ordered a new impeller as mine was badly pitted

Found one in great shape for $20
On eBay.

Last edited by Trickedouthawk; 11-19-2015 at 01:56 PM. Reason: pic didnt come out right
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