car oil-motorcycle oil?
#1
I don't need any Meds
Superstock
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: West Coast, SoCal Inland
Posts: 265
car oil-motorcycle oil?
Ok so i google up some oil for the bike and i find oil is like 12.99 or so a quart for oil labeled motorcycle.. soo i do the old ask.com look up and get their official answer as.. there is no difference.. to which several posters agreed and to which many more mechanics disagree..also on here ive searched up the oil post and i didnt run across any one really specifying as to a difference either just as to a brand or weight they use..
Question is this.. can i run down to the local auto parts place and buy 15w50 of oil or do i have to buy that super expsensive labeld oil for motorcycle use?
Question is this.. can i run down to the local auto parts place and buy 15w50 of oil or do i have to buy that super expsensive labeld oil for motorcycle use?
#3
Oh no, another oil thread.
Like shizzy said on your other thread, automotive oils now contain additives which can make your clutch slip since the clutch is bathed in oil. These oils are labeled "energy conserving" on the container and have an API Service Rating of SM. The last oil produced without these additives was API SJ. All "motorcycle motor oils" are SJ. So basically it's a throwback, that's why you pay more. I use Pro Honda GN4 10w40 from the Honda dealer at $20/gallon. The SuperHawk takes 4.1 quarts.
Oh, and he may be "mildly retarded", but he pretty much knows what he's talking about.
Like shizzy said on your other thread, automotive oils now contain additives which can make your clutch slip since the clutch is bathed in oil. These oils are labeled "energy conserving" on the container and have an API Service Rating of SM. The last oil produced without these additives was API SJ. All "motorcycle motor oils" are SJ. So basically it's a throwback, that's why you pay more. I use Pro Honda GN4 10w40 from the Honda dealer at $20/gallon. The SuperHawk takes 4.1 quarts.
Oh, and he may be "mildly retarded", but he pretty much knows what he's talking about.
Last edited by VTRsurfer; 06-05-2009 at 09:36 PM.
#4
Autozone stocks Valvoline MC in 10w40 and 20w50 for $3.99/qt. if you want official MC oil.
In synthetics Mobil 1 15w50 and Rotella 5w40 run around $5/qt. in jugs at wallyworld. Lot of people use them in bikes.
For $3/qt. or less the 15w40 "universal" like Rotella, Delo, Delvac etc. are running fine in a huge number of bikes.
All of the above are not energy conserving and all have enough zinc and phosphorus, which a lot of "car" oils don't anymore.
In synthetics Mobil 1 15w50 and Rotella 5w40 run around $5/qt. in jugs at wallyworld. Lot of people use them in bikes.
For $3/qt. or less the 15w40 "universal" like Rotella, Delo, Delvac etc. are running fine in a huge number of bikes.
All of the above are not energy conserving and all have enough zinc and phosphorus, which a lot of "car" oils don't anymore.
#6
Yeah, I will chime in to say that VTRsurfer is 100% correct. Get motorcycle specific but also get pure synthetic. It is about a million times better (give or take), doesnt break down as quickly etc. There is really no comparison.
#8
Wow, what an uncharacteristic response. Synthetic a waste? Do you still use smoke signals for communication? Hack the web for lubrication studies. It is not even close between the two. Guess it depends on how much or little you value your internal combustion engines & their longevity.
#9
No, I understand that synthetics are great! My point is, if I change the oil every 1.5-2k, the oil doesn't have time to break down all that much. So, in my mind reg. oil would be fine. If I were to change the oil every 8k, then OF COURSE I would use synthetic. Does any one else see my logic, or am I crazy?
#10
No, I understand that synthetics are great! My point is, if I change the oil every 1.5-2k, the oil doesn't have time to break down all that much. So, in my mind reg. oil would be fine. If I were to change the oil every 8k, then OF COURSE I would use synthetic. Does any one else see my logic, or am I crazy?
Yes I do, +1.
#15
Amsoil makes the best synthetic motorcycle or gear oil ever produced, but until you use it you will never know.
20-50 V Twin formula
motor honey
20-50 V Twin formula
motor honey
Last edited by Circuit_Burner; 06-06-2009 at 04:27 PM.
#16
I agree with Shizzy here. If my bike were to be ridden 10k miles in a year, and it did not burn oil at a rate of about 1 quart every 2k miles, then full synthetic would certainly be the way to go. I must deal with the reality that most motorcycle owners face: the bike hardly accumulates miles, and the expected mileage after 10 years of ownership will be less than 50k. The cost of running full synthetic motor oil, for me, is nothing more than money burned.
As of right now, cash is in short supply. I cannot even afford to renew the license plate tags at this time. I think that the old Rotella 15W40 will be more than adequate! It sure does smooth out the gearbox too.
One thing that I do not understand is a guy who will baby his ride with expensive oil changes with the full intention of selling the vehicle after the year's end... or even better, the guy who does the same for a vehicle that is leased.
As of right now, cash is in short supply. I cannot even afford to renew the license plate tags at this time. I think that the old Rotella 15W40 will be more than adequate! It sure does smooth out the gearbox too.
One thing that I do not understand is a guy who will baby his ride with expensive oil changes with the full intention of selling the vehicle after the year's end... or even better, the guy who does the same for a vehicle that is leased.
#17
Synthetic is nice but Rotella 15w40 is more than adequate for street riding. It's a motorcycle engine, not a nuclear submarine. If you abuse and neglect it with crappy oils and overly long change intervals it will still last you longer and go more miles than you will own it for.
#18
I don't need any Meds
Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: West Coast, SoCal Inland
Posts: 265
Synthetic is nice but Rotella 15w40 is more than adequate for street riding. It's a motorcycle engine, not a nuclear submarine. If you abuse and neglect it with crappy oils and overly long change intervals it will still last you longer and go more miles than you will own it for.
#19
Careful 5150! Speak not of what you do not know. The future of fighting is in Subs, not anywhere else. You can't see them with satellites. The newest attack subs carry more Tomahawks than any frigate.
Careful.
Careful.
#20
I don't need any Meds
Superstock
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: West Coast, SoCal Inland
Posts: 265
I take it you are Active navy or ex navy?
Last edited by 5150; 06-06-2009 at 04:58 PM. Reason: spelling like always..lol
#21
Mobil 1 came out in the mid to late '70s. They claimed it would save you money by recommending 25,000 mile oil changes. They suggested changing the oil filter and adding 1 quart every 5,000 (i think). 4 old quarts would remain in most engines at that time.
This was at the beginning of my teaching career, and I told my students "the oil may last that much longer for lubrication, but what about the acids that form in the oil and water from condensation which forms sludge?".
I agree with shizzy. Our '98 4Runner has 263,000 miles and has never had the oil level go below the full mark between changes, which are done at 3,000 miles with 10w30 Castrol.
This was at the beginning of my teaching career, and I told my students "the oil may last that much longer for lubrication, but what about the acids that form in the oil and water from condensation which forms sludge?".
I agree with shizzy. Our '98 4Runner has 263,000 miles and has never had the oil level go below the full mark between changes, which are done at 3,000 miles with 10w30 Castrol.
#22
5150,
Active Navy and a Submariner.
We're the first there. The Navy Jets are the first planes there. Our grunts, the Marines, are the first ground forces there. 75 couples we may be according to some, but we're the first "To put warheads, on foreheads".
Active Navy and a Submariner.
We're the first there. The Navy Jets are the first planes there. Our grunts, the Marines, are the first ground forces there. 75 couples we may be according to some, but we're the first "To put warheads, on foreheads".
#23
Good for you guys. I was in Naval Security Group in the late '60s, we had something to do with subs too, but I'm not supposed to talk about it.
#24
several years ago, I called Mobil tech to ask some questions about their oils relative to some experimenting I was doing with my semi(Cummins engine). At that time, they told me that their mobil 1 synthetic was great in that it contains anti-wear and other additives that resist heat breakdown. The one area of weakness of all pure synthetics according to them was the they do not hold dirt in suspension as well as organic oils. Therefore, if pure synthetic oil accumulates enough dirt, it will wear internal eng parts faster. Upon their advice, I started mixing organic and synthetic to get the best of both types. Within the following year, oil companies started selling blended oils. Consequently, I have been blending synthetic and organic ever since. i don't run high mileage between oil changes but i add about a quart and a half of organic per oil change just to be on the safe side. I can't say with certainty that this still applies as i have not queried them recently, but I have been self blending in all my vehicles for years.
#25
I don't need any Meds
Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: West Coast, SoCal Inland
Posts: 265
hahhahahahahahaha lol war heads on foreheads...dude im changing that to my signature line.. man that is a instant classic quote Erik.
#26
I don't need any Meds
Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2009
Location: West Coast, SoCal Inland
Posts: 265
several years ago, I called Mobil tech to ask some questions about their oils relative to some experimenting I was doing with my semi(Cummins engine). At that time, they told me that their mobil 1 synthetic was great in that it contains anti-wear and other additives that resist heat breakdown. The one area of weakness of all pure synthetics according to them was the they do not hold dirt in suspension as well as organic oils. Therefore, if pure synthetic oil accumulates enough dirt, it will wear internal eng parts faster. Upon their advice, I started mixing organic and synthetic to get the best of both types. Within the following year, oil companies started selling blended oils. Consequently, I have been blending synthetic and organic ever since. i don't run high mileage between oil changes but i add about a quart and a half of organic per oil change just to be on the safe side. I can't say with certainty that this still applies as i have not queried them recently, but I have been self blending in all my vehicles for years.
#27
I wouldn't think so although I would at least add a quart of synthetic to gain the lubrication/protective benefits. Cheap maintenance/insurance.
#29
I used to send my truck oil for analysis, but i can't remember the where or who, thru a trucking mag. advertisement. Have you been analyzing oil for 10 years or better?