Dealing with milkshake.
10-25-2015, 06:02 PM
#1
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 9
Dealing with milkshake.
Hi Everyone, I posted a month or so ago about my two week owned superhawk about noise and heat which ended with a crankcase of milkshake. Didn't have tools or money so she's been sitting. Since then I have been reading what I can find on this forum. I have seen a few posts where once someone is seeing milkshake almost everyone responds that it's headgasket... then they fix the waterpump and problem goes away. So, I thought there is the cheapest and easiest first thing to try, I'll do that and if it continues pouring coolant in the crankcase (there is no oil in coolant) then headgaskets. But no. Turns out I need a ridiculous list of tools or pay someone $100 to just do that part with me removing cover from bike. I thought this might be the issue because I didn't notice any lack in power or see any smoke. Ran fine until the crankcase was so full it would bog down at idle, but would start again and got me home.
So... I can not afford to spend that on a 'hope'. Looks like I need to do the headgasket instead. My question is are there hidden costs, ridiculous tools somewhere down the road to replacing headgaskets? I wouldn't have guessed they made the waterpump impossible to work on, what else is hiding? Is there any chance in hell a half *** mechanic such as myself can hope to do this all the way through?
I know that the huge majority of mechanical folks are 100% against any liquid glass headgasket repair. However I have used such in the past (on cars) and had absolutely perfect results. Is there anyone here that can advise on that in relation to these engines in particular?
I am so very disappointed in this bike. It is the most expensive I have bought at a mere 2k but the first bike to ever just **** itself, and two weeks in at that. If I can get this bitch running with less than the 200 hrs it will take me to replace the headgasket then I will happily ride on and get everything back to right after first of the year when my situation changes and I can afford it. If I have to spend more time working on it than I have ever ridden it I am just going to get it right and sell it. Buy something without cct engine catastrophe imminent, or burned out electrical systems hanging over head.
So, I'd prefer a liquid glass solution if anyone has one. If not, any unsurmountable (well, surmountable by huge cash outputs) obstacles I am going to run into trying to replace the headgaskets?
Thanks for your time,
Ken
So... I can not afford to spend that on a 'hope'. Looks like I need to do the headgasket instead. My question is are there hidden costs, ridiculous tools somewhere down the road to replacing headgaskets? I wouldn't have guessed they made the waterpump impossible to work on, what else is hiding? Is there any chance in hell a half *** mechanic such as myself can hope to do this all the way through?
I know that the huge majority of mechanical folks are 100% against any liquid glass headgasket repair. However I have used such in the past (on cars) and had absolutely perfect results. Is there anyone here that can advise on that in relation to these engines in particular?
I am so very disappointed in this bike. It is the most expensive I have bought at a mere 2k but the first bike to ever just **** itself, and two weeks in at that. If I can get this bitch running with less than the 200 hrs it will take me to replace the headgasket then I will happily ride on and get everything back to right after first of the year when my situation changes and I can afford it. If I have to spend more time working on it than I have ever ridden it I am just going to get it right and sell it. Buy something without cct engine catastrophe imminent, or burned out electrical systems hanging over head.
So, I'd prefer a liquid glass solution if anyone has one. If not, any unsurmountable (well, surmountable by huge cash outputs) obstacles I am going to run into trying to replace the headgaskets?
Thanks for your time,
Ken
Last edited by Simpleton; 10-25-2015 at 06:12 PM. Reason: More info.
10-25-2015, 10:45 PM
#2
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 460
I don't know what special tools you referring to. I just replaced my WP seal. The PO was using water for track days. No lubricating qualities like glycol. It was no big thing. Parts; Seal, bearing, coolant. and side case gasket and sealant. Tools; 8mm, 10mm, sockets. I just used the appropriate size socket for bearing and seal drivers.
It's all covered on 6-13 in the shop manual (SH Bible)
It's all covered on 6-13 in the shop manual (SH Bible)
10-25-2015, 11:29 PM
#4
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 9
Right, in the manual it has lists like:
TOOLS:
Bearing remover set, 10 mm 07936-GEOOOOO
- Bearing remover shaft 07936-GE00100
-Bearing remover, 10 mm 07936-GE00200
-Sliding weight 07741-0010201
on several different pages.
I read posts here where someone asked can I do this stuff without all the special tools and was answered yes, but it's difficult and you'll probably screw up several seals trying to get it right. Several responses saying just take it to a shop and pay an hour labor.
As I definitely don't consider myself a better mechanic than the next average joe, sounds out of my league.
You're saying not that tough?
TOOLS:
Bearing remover set, 10 mm 07936-GEOOOOO
- Bearing remover shaft 07936-GE00100
-Bearing remover, 10 mm 07936-GE00200
-Sliding weight 07741-0010201
on several different pages.
I read posts here where someone asked can I do this stuff without all the special tools and was answered yes, but it's difficult and you'll probably screw up several seals trying to get it right. Several responses saying just take it to a shop and pay an hour labor.
As I definitely don't consider myself a better mechanic than the next average joe, sounds out of my league.
You're saying not that tough?
10-26-2015, 05:13 AM
#5
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
Right, in the manual it has lists like:
TOOLS:
Bearing remover set, 10 mm 07936-GEOOOOO
- Bearing remover shaft 07936-GE00100
-Bearing remover, 10 mm 07936-GE00200
-Sliding weight 07741-0010201
on several different pages.
I read posts here where someone asked can I do this stuff without all the special tools and was answered yes, but it's difficult and you'll probably screw up several seals trying to get it right. Several responses saying just take it to a shop and pay an hour labor.
As I definitely don't consider myself a better mechanic than the next average joe, sounds out of my league.
You're saying not that tough?
TOOLS:
Bearing remover set, 10 mm 07936-GEOOOOO
- Bearing remover shaft 07936-GE00100
-Bearing remover, 10 mm 07936-GE00200
-Sliding weight 07741-0010201
on several different pages.
I read posts here where someone asked can I do this stuff without all the special tools and was answered yes, but it's difficult and you'll probably screw up several seals trying to get it right. Several responses saying just take it to a shop and pay an hour labor.
As I definitely don't consider myself a better mechanic than the next average joe, sounds out of my league.
You're saying not that tough?
Can a accomplished home wrench find the right combo of sockets, pipe pieces and hammer a seal into place? most times ,,,but even then the tails of destruction,, leaking new seals, impellers rubbing the housing are common.
Removing the head, cleaning, replacing, torquing in place using a known good, certified properly sized tq wrench properly, installing cams, timing them, checking valve clearances, adjusting them (meaning having the right size shims on hand) is also not "hard" but is a lot for a less accomplished and experienced home wrench. Doable?? Absolutely. Commonly screwed up? The backlog of jobs I have to get done and your search through these forums will tell you that.
10-27-2015, 02:55 AM
#8
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: New South Wales Australia
Posts: 1,544
Pressure test the cooling system first .
That may help you to determine if it is the water pump seal by way of coolant leaking out the overflow . Check your manual to verify this.
This is best done with at least the right side fairing off so that you can get at the radiator.
Then you might try the glass solution, I for one have had great success with this on one of my kids cars when they overheated it so much that it blew a hose clean off the water pump and filled the sump with water.
My son drove that car for 2 years with the glass in it and all was well.
Good luck! Pressure test the system so you can tell where the problem is.
I would suggest dropping the oil level first though.
That may help you to determine if it is the water pump seal by way of coolant leaking out the overflow . Check your manual to verify this.
This is best done with at least the right side fairing off so that you can get at the radiator.
Then you might try the glass solution, I for one have had great success with this on one of my kids cars when they overheated it so much that it blew a hose clean off the water pump and filled the sump with water.
My son drove that car for 2 years with the glass in it and all was well.
Good luck! Pressure test the system so you can tell where the problem is.
I would suggest dropping the oil level first though.
11-19-2015, 02:05 PM
#13
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 25
Hey Simpleton got on update on my milkshake. Turns out it was the water pump. The weep hole was pretty clogged so no leak. Had to also order a new impeller as mine was rusted to hell. Check out my post so you don't make the same mistake as me.
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