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Coerce Racing sprocket guard Vs OEM

Old 05-05-2013, 09:46 AM
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Coerce Racing sprocket guard Vs OEM

Some had asked me to compare the Coerce Racing sprocket guard Vs OEM one for weight.

OK, here ya go
OEM 13.25 oz
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Those are the parts replaced by the Coerce part. Fasteners not included as each requires the same thing mostly..

Coerce Racing sprocket guard 5.125 oz
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The Coerce one is a whopping 8.125 oz lighter

So no, not really a performance mod on a piggy of a bike.

OF NOTE: The Coerce guard does not use hollow dowel pins for locating either the guard or the slave cylinder.

That accounts for some of the weight, but it also means the parts are not located well by way of a very sloppy fit fastener in a non precision fit hole.

I'm not pleased with that setup, so I will counterbore the sprocket guard for dowel pins as soon as the new end mil and reamer show up. Why? because I can,,, does it need it? likely no.

This used guard had one damaged spacer Name:  D9F8F2E4-8B33-46E6-B5A8-1145D7557ADE-14232-000017363E25FE12_zpsc1b36777.jpg
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likely from running with a loose chain. I'll machine a new one from 7075 aluminium next week as a replacement as well.

Once I decide I like it, I'll have my local powder coater spray um for me... color yet to be determined.
Black?..... gunmetal? or perhaps I'll polish them up and clear coat.

Bottom line... this is an appearance mod for the most part, a bit less weight, more access to clean that area without removing the cover...but really just an appearance mod.
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Last edited by E.Marquez; 05-05-2013 at 10:19 AM.
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Old 05-06-2013, 05:31 AM
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Thanks, nice write up.
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Old 05-06-2013, 10:36 PM
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Do you not use a chain guard?it so what why not?i like the look alot better
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Old 05-07-2013, 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Shane702 View Post
Do you not use a chain guard?it so what why not?i like the look alot better
Shane
It is designed to use the guard, and if you do not, you need to add some length to the spacers. Otherwise you change the effective length of the push rod, and you force the clutch open.

Ever seen the aftermath of a chain coming off the sprockets at speed? Not once, in the dozens of examples I've seen, did the the flimsy steel "case saver" save the cases. Street, dirt, track bikes, not one escaped damage. So in my opinion, the steel case saver is a useless part.

The OEM part looks like crap when installed behind the Coerce guard... so for me that left a few choices.
  1. OEM case saver in place-- Looks like crap, and provides only marginal safety increase if the chain falls off at walking speed or less.
  2. Longer spacers- Looks better, but no protection of the Coerce guard for even rolling the chain off the sprockets while on the stand.
  3. Trim the OEm case saver of the extra material no longer needed based on the different contact and clamp points between OEM and Coerce.
  4. Fabricate a new case saver- Best plan I think and what I will do at some point
.
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:55 AM
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That kinda looks like like mine. However, I like the Coerce one a heck of a lot better. A friend of mine said that he wouldn't ride my bike like that, because he said, your shoe lace or loose pants could get caught and pulled in. His worries went away after I showed him where your foot actually rests.

I cut mine to be different and to have more of a mechanical look to the bike.

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Old 05-07-2013, 09:08 AM
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I decided I did not want to modfy the OEM cover as I just did not like the rounded lines.
To each his own.
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:42 AM
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Very nice ! Do you always run your chain bone dry, or was it just cleaned for the pic ?
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by CruxGNZ View Post
A friend of mine said that he wouldn't ride my bike like that, because he said, your shoe lace or loose pants could get caught and pulled in.
Shorts and flip flops. Problem solved!
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Old 05-07-2013, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Jack Flash View Post
Very nice ! Do you always run your chain bone dry, or was it just cleaned for the pic ?

I think you have me confused for a squid and a hack...

My chain is clean, adjusted properly and lubed with Silkolene Pro-Chain Synthetic Lube
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Jack Flash View Post
Very nice ! Do you always run your chain bone dry, or was it just cleaned for the pic ?
Im assuming you're talking about my chain, since you can almost see yourself in Marquez's chain. Mine was the one I got with the bike when I bought it. It won't clean up and actually is oiled. Haven't got around to spending money on something that works just fine. Looks like crap, but is not stretched and doesn't make any noise. I'll throw a new one on soon, since the bike is getting bodywork and paint in a couple weeks.

...a squid and a hack...
I'll remember to not post pictures in your threads. I appologize.
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:44 PM
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I kinda like the way that modified OEM one looks...
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Old 05-07-2013, 01:53 PM
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Certainly was not expecting anything less.
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 7moore7 View Post
I kinda like the way that modified OEM one looks...

All I will add is if you want to mod the stock cover, read up on cutting magnesium or you might end up with a bit of a surprise......
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:02 PM
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Also thanks for weighing them though I would bet most of the weight is in the steel case saver.
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk View Post
Also thanks for weighing them though I would bet most of the weight is in the steel case saver.
You would think so.....
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But no..
The cover without the steel guard weighs 10 5/8 oz.. so the steel guard weights 2 5/8 oz by it self
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk View Post
All I will add is if you want to mod the stock cover, read up on cutting magnesium or you might end up with a bit of a surprise......
It's not the cutting on this low magnesium content alloy to be overly cautious on.. it's the chips, filings, strings you need to watch out for around open flame or sparks.
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Old 05-07-2013, 03:31 PM
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There won't be chips or filings if I cut it with a torch. I'm just all kinds of problem solver today!
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Old 05-10-2013, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by E.Marquez View Post
It is designed to use the guard, and if you do not, you need to add some length to the spacers. Otherwise you change the effective length of the push rod, and you force the clutch open.

Ever seen the aftermath of a chain coming off the sprockets at speed? Not once, in the dozens of examples I've seen, did the the flimsy steel "case saver" save the cases. Street, dirt, track bikes, not one escaped damage. So in my opinion, the steel case saver is a useless part.

The OEM part looks like crap when installed behind the Coerce guard... so for me that left a few choices.
  1. OEM case saver in place-- Looks like crap, and provides only marginal safety increase if the chain falls off at walking speed or less.
  2. Longer spacers- Looks better, but no protection of the Coerce guard for even rolling the chain off the sprockets while on the stand.
  3. Trim the OEm case saver of the extra material no longer needed based on the different contact and clamp points between OEM and Coerce.
  4. Fabricate a new case saver- Best plan I think and what I will do at some point
.
I just purchased a Coerce guard online from Max MC Direct - arrived in the UK in just 3 days, unbelievable service!

You mentioned about "adding some length to the spacers" - is that required if I'm just replacing the OEM guard with the Coerce one? If so I'd better fire the lathe up...
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by scubadog View Post
I justpurchased a Coerce guard online from Max MC Direct - arrived in the UK in just3 days, unbelievable service!
Originally Posted by scubadog View Post

You mentioned about "addingsome length to the spacers" - is that required if I'm just replacing theOEM guard with the Coerce one? If so I'd better fire the lathe up...


If you reuse the steel case saverfrom the OEM cover.. No mods are required.

If you do not use the steel casesaver, you need to account for the thickness of that steel part in the spacerssupplied. That can be a washer of the correct thickness added.. Or longerspacers made.

The installed position of the clutchslave cylinder is very sensitive.. Any closer to the engine case and yourclutch will be forced OPEN and will not engage.

Basically the piston in the slave isbottomed out when the slave is installed at the factory distance from the case.Less is bad, a few .001" more is workable, but not too much.
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by E.Marquez View Post


If you reuse the steel case saverfrom the OEM cover.. No mods are required.

If you do not use the steel casesaver, you need to account for the thickness of that steel part in the spacerssupplied. That can be a washer of the correct thickness added.. Or longerspacers made.

The installed position of the clutchslave cylinder is very sensitive.. Any closer to the engine case and yourclutch will be forced OPEN and will not engage.

Basically the piston in the slave isbottomed out when the slave is installed at the factory distance from the case.Less is bad, a few .001" more is workable, but not too much.
Yeah right, the penny's dropped now. Couldn't figure out what the steel "case saver" was until I took a closer look. It's the steel plate that sits under the OEM sprocket cover and it's a couple of mm thick. So I'll machine up some new ally spacers to accommodate the case saver not being retained. And I plan to machine the bottom spacer out of stainless to avoid the problem talked about earlier in this thread of the ally spacer getting chewed by the chain.
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Old 05-10-2013, 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by scubadog View Post
So I'll machine up some new ally spacers to accommodate the case saver not being retained. And I plan to machine the bottom spacer out of stainless to avoid the problem talked about earlier in this thread of the ally spacer getting chewed by the chain.
Thats what I did
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Old 06-12-2013, 11:53 AM
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Following the earlier posts, I decided to modify my Coerce sprocket guard because I thought it stood too far off the sprocket to actually do any guarding! So I turned up some new spacers 10mm shorter than the standard ones and then made up a slave cylinder spacer to compensate. Result is the sprocket guard sits much closer to the chain and sprocket and the slave cylinder is still in its proper place. Pics should show what I've done...
Attached Thumbnails Coerce Racing sprocket guard Vs OEM-p6103564_2.jpg   Coerce Racing sprocket guard Vs OEM-p6103565_2.jpg  
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Old 06-12-2013, 11:58 AM
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SOMEone has a nice camera!
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Old 06-12-2013, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by CruxGNZ View Post
That kinda looks like like mine. However, I like the Coerce one a heck of a lot better. A friend of mine said that he wouldn't ride my bike like that, because he said, your shoe lace or loose pants could get caught and pulled in. His worries went away after I showed him where your foot actually rests.

I cut mine to be different and to have more of a mechanical look to the bike.


Cool mod, I like it.
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Old 06-12-2013, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by CruxGNZ View Post
That kinda looks like like mine. However, I like the Coerce one a heck of a lot better. A friend of mine said that he wouldn't ride my bike like that, because he said, your shoe lace or loose pants could get caught and pulled in. His worries went away after I showed him where your foot actually rests.

I cut mine to be different and to have more of a mechanical look to the bike.


What did you cut it with?
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Old 06-12-2013, 07:03 PM
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I just used a sawzall. Then used a angle grinder with a flap wheel to even it all out. After that, a file to clean up the edges.

Last edited by CruxGNZ; 06-12-2013 at 07:11 PM.
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Old 06-13-2013, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by CruxGNZ View Post
I just used a sawzall. Then used a angle grinder with a flap wheel to even it all out. After that, a file to clean up the edges.
I'm gonna do that, Thanks man!
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Old 06-13-2013, 09:34 PM
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You will probably have an easier time with a smaller tool like a jigsaw with a metal/bimetal blade. I just used the sawzall, because my pnuematic body saw was being repaired at the time.

Have fun, and if you can, post up pics when you're done!
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Old 06-14-2013, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by CruxGNZ View Post
You will probably have an easier time with a smaller tool like a jigsaw with a metal/bimetal blade. I just used the sawzall, because my pnuematic body saw was being repaired at the time.

Have fun, and if you can, post up pics when you're done!
May try a Dremel with a cutting wheel or jigsaw. I don't know how to post pics but I'll try if it doesn't get too butchered up!

Went to glue loose grips on and thought it was all set. Til I saw the blob of superglue sitting on the fairing paint. That's where the power outlet is now. Close one!
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Old 07-07-2013, 11:18 PM
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As Mr. Marquez stated "to each his own". I ended-up using the stock guard, as I like how it supports the slave cylinder so much better and allows the use of the steel plate without looking out of place. Plus, the price was right...an afternoon in the shop? After all the cutting and grinding, I sandblasted mine and shot it with lacquer. Kinda gave it that sand-cast look. Hope you like it?
Attached Thumbnails Coerce Racing sprocket guard Vs OEM-sp-goard-003.jpg   Coerce Racing sprocket guard Vs OEM-sp-goard-006.jpg   Coerce Racing sprocket guard Vs OEM-vrtfo-003.jpg  
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