Coerce Racing sprocket guard Vs OEM
5 Attachment(s)
Some had asked me to compare the Coerce Racing sprocket guard Vs OEM one for weight.
OK, here ya go OEM 13.25 oz Attachment 23627 Those are the parts replaced by the Coerce part. Fasteners not included as each requires the same thing mostly.. Coerce Racing sprocket guard 5.125 oz Attachment 23628 The Coerce one is a whopping 8.125 oz lighter :rolleyes: So no, not really a performance mod on a piggy of a bike. OF NOTE: The Coerce guard does not use hollow dowel pins for locating either the guard or the slave cylinder. That accounts for some of the weight, but it also means the parts are not located well by way of a very sloppy fit fastener in a non precision fit hole. I'm not pleased with that setup, so I will counterbore the sprocket guard for dowel pins as soon as the new end mil and reamer show up. Why? because I can,,, does it need it? likely no. This used guard had one damaged spacer Attachment 23629 likely from running with a loose chain. I'll machine a new one from 7075 aluminium next week as a replacement as well. Once I decide I like it, I'll have my local powder coater spray um for me... color yet to be determined. Black?..... gunmetal? or perhaps I'll polish them up and clear coat. Bottom line... this is an appearance mod for the most part, a bit less weight, more access to clean that area without removing the cover...but really just an appearance mod. Attachment 23630 Attachment 23631 |
Thanks, nice write up.
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Do you not use a chain guard?it so what why not?i like the look alot better
Shane |
Originally Posted by Shane702
(Post 354422)
Do you not use a chain guard?it so what why not?i like the look alot better
Shane Ever seen the aftermath of a chain coming off the sprockets at speed? Not once, in the dozens of examples I've seen, did the the flimsy steel "case saver" save the cases. Street, dirt, track bikes, not one escaped damage. So in my opinion, the steel case saver is a useless part. The OEM part looks like crap when installed behind the Coerce guard... so for me that left a few choices.
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2 Attachment(s)
That kinda looks like like mine. However, I like the Coerce one a heck of a lot better. A friend of mine said that he wouldn't ride my bike like that, because he said, your shoe lace or loose pants could get caught and pulled in. His worries went away after I showed him where your foot actually rests.
I cut mine to be different and to have more of a mechanical look to the bike. Attachment 23622 Attachment 23623 |
I decided I did not want to modfy the OEM cover as I just did not like the rounded lines.
To each his own. |
Very nice ! Do you always run your chain bone dry, or was it just cleaned for the pic ? ;)
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Originally Posted by CruxGNZ
(Post 354433)
A friend of mine said that he wouldn't ride my bike like that, because he said, your shoe lace or loose pants could get caught and pulled in.
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Originally Posted by Jack Flash
(Post 354438)
Very nice ! Do you always run your chain bone dry, or was it just cleaned for the pic ? ;)
I think you have me confused for a squid and a hack...:p My chain is clean, adjusted properly and lubed with Silkolene Pro-Chain Synthetic Lube |
Originally Posted by Jack Flash
(Post 354438)
Very nice ! Do you always run your chain bone dry, or was it just cleaned for the pic ? ;)
...a squid and a hack... |
I kinda like the way that modified OEM one looks...
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Certainly was not expecting anything less. :)
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Originally Posted by 7moore7
(Post 354446)
I kinda like the way that modified OEM one looks...
All I will add is if you want to mod the stock cover, read up on cutting magnesium or you might end up with a bit of a surprise...... :boom: |
Also thanks for weighing them though I would bet most of the weight is in the steel case saver.
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by 8541Hawk
(Post 354449)
Also thanks for weighing them though I would bet most of the weight is in the steel case saver.
Attachment 23621 But no.. :eek: The cover without the steel guard weighs 10 5/8 oz.. so the steel guard weights 2 5/8 oz by it self |
Originally Posted by 8541Hawk
(Post 354448)
All I will add is if you want to mod the stock cover, read up on cutting magnesium or you might end up with a bit of a surprise...... :boom:
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There won't be chips or filings if I cut it with a torch. I'm just all kinds of problem solver today!
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Originally Posted by E.Marquez
(Post 354426)
It is designed to use the guard, and if you do not, you need to add some length to the spacers. Otherwise you change the effective length of the push rod, and you force the clutch open.
Ever seen the aftermath of a chain coming off the sprockets at speed? Not once, in the dozens of examples I've seen, did the the flimsy steel "case saver" save the cases. Street, dirt, track bikes, not one escaped damage. So in my opinion, the steel case saver is a useless part. The OEM part looks like crap when installed behind the Coerce guard... so for me that left a few choices.
You mentioned about "adding some length to the spacers" - is that required if I'm just replacing the OEM guard with the Coerce one? If so I'd better fire the lathe up... |
Originally Posted by scubadog
(Post 354617)
I justpurchased a Coerce guard online from Max MC Direct - arrived in the UK in just3 days, unbelievable service!
Originally Posted by scubadog
(Post 354617)
You mentioned about "addingsome length to the spacers" - is that required if I'm just replacing theOEM guard with the Coerce one? If so I'd better fire the lathe up... If you reuse the steel case saverfrom the OEM cover.. No mods are required. If you do not use the steel casesaver, you need to account for the thickness of that steel part in the spacerssupplied. That can be a washer of the correct thickness added.. Or longerspacers made. The installed position of the clutchslave cylinder is very sensitive.. Any closer to the engine case and yourclutch will be forced OPEN and will not engage. Basically the piston in the slave isbottomed out when the slave is installed at the factory distance from the case.Less is bad, a few .001" more is workable, but not too much. |
Originally Posted by E.Marquez
(Post 354620)
If you reuse the steel case saverfrom the OEM cover.. No mods are required. If you do not use the steel casesaver, you need to account for the thickness of that steel part in the spacerssupplied. That can be a washer of the correct thickness added.. Or longerspacers made. The installed position of the clutchslave cylinder is very sensitive.. Any closer to the engine case and yourclutch will be forced OPEN and will not engage. Basically the piston in the slave isbottomed out when the slave is installed at the factory distance from the case.Less is bad, a few .001" more is workable, but not too much. |
Originally Posted by scubadog
(Post 354622)
So I'll machine up some new ally spacers to accommodate the case saver not being retained. And I plan to machine the bottom spacer out of stainless to avoid the problem talked about earlier in this thread of the ally spacer getting chewed by the chain.
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2 Attachment(s)
Following the earlier posts, I decided to modify my Coerce sprocket guard because I thought it stood too far off the sprocket to actually do any guarding! So I turned up some new spacers 10mm shorter than the standard ones and then made up a slave cylinder spacer to compensate. Result is the sprocket guard sits much closer to the chain and sprocket and the slave cylinder is still in its proper place. Pics should show what I've done...
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SOMEone has a nice camera!
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Originally Posted by CruxGNZ
(Post 354433)
That kinda looks like like mine. However, I like the Coerce one a heck of a lot better. A friend of mine said that he wouldn't ride my bike like that, because he said, your shoe lace or loose pants could get caught and pulled in. His worries went away after I showed him where your foot actually rests.
I cut mine to be different and to have more of a mechanical look to the bike. http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...4bbdfcfe1b.jpg http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...a8789e1263.jpg |
Originally Posted by CruxGNZ
(Post 354433)
That kinda looks like like mine. However, I like the Coerce one a heck of a lot better. A friend of mine said that he wouldn't ride my bike like that, because he said, your shoe lace or loose pants could get caught and pulled in. His worries went away after I showed him where your foot actually rests.
I cut mine to be different and to have more of a mechanical look to the bike. http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...4bbdfcfe1b.jpg http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/...a8789e1263.jpg |
I just used a sawzall. Then used a angle grinder with a flap wheel to even it all out. After that, a file to clean up the edges.
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Originally Posted by CruxGNZ
(Post 357018)
I just used a sawzall. Then used a angle grinder with a flap wheel to even it all out. After that, a file to clean up the edges.
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You will probably have an easier time with a smaller tool like a jigsaw with a metal/bimetal blade. I just used the sawzall, because my pnuematic body saw was being repaired at the time.
Have fun, and if you can, post up pics when you're done! |
Originally Posted by CruxGNZ
(Post 357114)
You will probably have an easier time with a smaller tool like a jigsaw with a metal/bimetal blade. I just used the sawzall, because my pnuematic body saw was being repaired at the time.
Have fun, and if you can, post up pics when you're done! Went to glue loose grips on and thought it was all set. Til I saw the blob of superglue sitting on the fairing paint. That's where the power outlet is now. Close one! |
3 Attachment(s)
As Mr. Marquez stated "to each his own". I ended-up using the stock guard, as I like how it supports the slave cylinder so much better and allows the use of the steel plate without looking out of place. Plus, the price was right...an afternoon in the shop? After all the cutting and grinding, I sandblasted mine and shot it with lacquer. Kinda gave it that sand-cast look. Hope you like it?
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