Not exactly What I had in mind for my second post here but here goes nothing.
After reading I still have questions: https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...problem-22570/

Problem 1:
I hop on my 98' hawk after eating dinner and the headlight doesn't go on when I start the bike.
I start driving home (20m) I notice that when I am not in neutral or the shifter isn't moving or the clutch is not pulled in, the headlight will turn on.

When I do any of those 3 separately/together the headlight will turn off.

Problem number 2:
When I get home I toss the bike on the freshly bought trickle charger and begin to diagnose the simple stuff. (checking to see if loose headlight is going on and off with vibration) I also call my friend Redvtr1000 and ask him if the headlight dimming is a "normal issue".

As I am on the phone with him the fuse box starts smoking. I immediately take off the charger and open the cover of the fuses. To the best of my knowledge referring to the manual my "clutch diode" is what was smoking and needs to be replaced because its all melted.

The bike will still start up and still has the dimming issue after all this.
My Questions:

Is the headlight going on/off due to a bad clutch diode?
Did my trickle charger finish off the clutch diode?
If this trickle charger...
Amazon.com: Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V Battery Charger: Automotive

...Is not acceptable for this bike why wouldn't a fuse have blown before something started smoking.(all fuses appear to be correct.)

If anyone needs pictures or more details I will be happy to provide, and will be trying to do more research on this site on my own, in addition to trying to better figure this out.

 

New update:
Went to tinker with it after posting. The clutch diode smokes when there is no trickle charger attached. Could possibly be because it was already broken?

 

Research regulator/rectifier failures. I think you'll find yours is fried.

 

I agree. Pretty easy to replace. Put a voltmeter accross the battery off then started. What are the numbers (voltages)?

 

Agreed. Also, disconnect the plug from the r/r. If it looks something like this, that's another indicator that you problem is there:

 

Wow, 3 answers past midnight. You guys are the best. I had a feeling it was the R/R but I do not know enough about the electrical workings of the bike to know why anything in the fuse box would be smoking without a blown fuse. I am also guessing I'll have no problem using this trickle charger judging by the fact no one is outraged that I am using that 12v model? Hopefully it isn't overkill, I am used to dealing with an 09 gixxer 750 that had more aftermarket bells and whistles then I care to share.

Joe, I do not have a voltmeter handy. I will probably grab one of those tomorrow, it is not the first time I had been told to use one, or wished I had one.

7moore7, The plug did not look like that because it seems the P/O had already installed an aftermarket one and just hardwired each wire to each plug, which should make for a fun time taking it off.

Thanks for the help,
Chris

 

If you use the meter once its free. But really you'll use it constantly. Right now for one. Sears even has em. You are gonna fry more expensive stuff if you dont.(sounds like you already are).

Your battery may or may not be destroyed if the RR is gone. Leave it on trickle.

 

What are the letters and numbers stamped on the r/r? If it has been replaced, check the p/o's wiring to make sure he didn't half *** it.

 

Bought the voltmeter today. Battery is fine. Everything is dissembled but I picked up a "Rick's" R/R off of cheapcycleparts.com along with a new clutch diode and everything else I needed for this bike.

Didn't see any markings whatsoever. I believe its aftermarket because I don't think the stock ones had fins. Whoever wired it before didn't do that bad of a job. I have seen worse.

Willing To bet the burn marks are a good sign that my RR is bad. Also it is going to be a big pain in the *** to figure out what I am going to do with the clutch diode.

 

 

Get a new connector at easter beaver. This bike has to carry you to remote places in all conditions so better to just get one. They are cheap and bulletproof R/R Connectors

Really worth their wieght in gold for the headaches they will save you I promise.

I wouldnt re-use that fuse block. There are some part-outs on this forum so scare one up.

Re-using that can only lead to great unhappiness........

 

Good info on that connector joe. I did some tinkering and the clutch diode part of the fuseblock is pretty isolated from the rest of the fuses. I got to it pretty quick before it melted any other part so I am going to peel back the 3 wires and make the clutch diode in its own little housing.

 

Bring it by over the weekend or on monday and i will look at it personally. A little weird how this thing was working perfectly when it left my house ...

 

How do you suggest I get it there. I think your breaking tiny things in order to keep me dependant on your knowledge.

 

I don't think those Eastern Beaver R/R connectors will work with your unit. What you can do though, as per Tweety, is fill the plug with hot melt after you make sure all the connectors are clean and secure. That will prevent any future corrosion.

 

I have the wiring diagram for the diode but since my whole connector melted I cannot figure out what side is what. Can someone that is bored take a look at their diode and tell me which side is which? The diode has 3 pins that are sticking out closer to one side. If you were to lay it on its back and the pins were against the table what what would the wire order be.

 

Yeah eastern beaver has those connectors too..