Clutch cover oil sight glass removal
07-06-2016, 02:46 PM
#1
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Clutch cover oil sight glass removal
Hi guys,
Any of you know how the little oil level sight glass comes out of the clutch side engine cover? I couldn't find anything in the manual and Honda doesn't list is as a separate part on the fiche.
I want to powder coat all my covers and would like to remove it so the powder coater doesn't f' it up...
Ideas????
Any of you know how the little oil level sight glass comes out of the clutch side engine cover? I couldn't find anything in the manual and Honda doesn't list is as a separate part on the fiche.
I want to powder coat all my covers and would like to remove it so the powder coater doesn't f' it up...
Ideas????
07-06-2016, 03:46 PM
#2
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It is not a removeable and replaceable designed item, there are no service parts. The window is held inplace with a thin steel ring, window is set in cover and the steel retaining ring is pressed in on top. Removing it will damage the ring for sure.
That said I just removed the window from my spare and damaged cover.
If I was so inclined I could machine a press fit retainer and refit the window, or i could use some epoxy designed for submersion in hot oil and "seal it in place.
PC'ing to cover is not in itself going to hurt the window, you can just tape it off as you would any other part you do not want PC'ed.. The curing temps are well below what the engine sees.
The concern and what I have personally seen destroy hundreds of engines in airplanes boats, to race cars and motorcycles is.. the media used to strip and prep the cover... lots of nooks and crannies in and around that window to retain media. if it can it will, only to release those particles later after many heat / cool cycles.
The good news is, you're not PC'ing the inside of the cover (id guess)
So degrease the entire thing, dry completely and tape off the inside and cover mating surface with heave 100mph tape.. or better if you're so inclined, make a dummy cover from wood or, steel or aluminum. Silicone the cover to the clutch cover mating surface with high temp RTV. Prep and then PC the outer cover, cure and remove the dummy cover... you now have a clean mating surface, no media inside the cover, no PC on the mating surface interfering with the gasket sealing.
That said I just removed the window from my spare and damaged cover.
If I was so inclined I could machine a press fit retainer and refit the window, or i could use some epoxy designed for submersion in hot oil and "seal it in place.
PC'ing to cover is not in itself going to hurt the window, you can just tape it off as you would any other part you do not want PC'ed.. The curing temps are well below what the engine sees.
The concern and what I have personally seen destroy hundreds of engines in airplanes boats, to race cars and motorcycles is.. the media used to strip and prep the cover... lots of nooks and crannies in and around that window to retain media. if it can it will, only to release those particles later after many heat / cool cycles.
The good news is, you're not PC'ing the inside of the cover (id guess)
So degrease the entire thing, dry completely and tape off the inside and cover mating surface with heave 100mph tape.. or better if you're so inclined, make a dummy cover from wood or, steel or aluminum. Silicone the cover to the clutch cover mating surface with high temp RTV. Prep and then PC the outer cover, cure and remove the dummy cover... you now have a clean mating surface, no media inside the cover, no PC on the mating surface interfering with the gasket sealing.
07-07-2016, 10:57 AM
#3
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Middletown, CT
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It is not a removeable and replaceable designed item, there are no service parts. The window is held inplace with a thin steel ring, window is set in cover and the steel retaining ring is pressed in on top. Removing it will damage the ring for sure.
That said I just removed the window from my spare and damaged cover.
If I was so inclined I could machine a press fit retainer and refit the window, or i could use some epoxy designed for submersion in hot oil and "seal it in place.
PC'ing to cover is not in itself going to hurt the window, you can just tape it off as you would any other part you do not want PC'ed.. The curing temps are well below what the engine sees.
The concern and what I have personally seen destroy hundreds of engines in airplanes boats, to race cars and motorcycles is.. the media used to strip and prep the cover... lots of nooks and crannies in and around that window to retain media. if it can it will, only to release those particles later after many heat / cool cycles.
The good news is, you're not PC'ing the inside of the cover (id guess)
So degrease the entire thing, dry completely and tape off the inside and cover mating surface with heave 100mph tape.. or better if you're so inclined, make a dummy cover from wood or, steel or aluminum. Silicone the cover to the clutch cover mating surface with high temp RTV. Prep and then PC the outer cover, cure and remove the dummy cover... you now have a clean mating surface, no media inside the cover, no PC on the mating surface interfering with the gasket sealing.
That said I just removed the window from my spare and damaged cover.
If I was so inclined I could machine a press fit retainer and refit the window, or i could use some epoxy designed for submersion in hot oil and "seal it in place.
PC'ing to cover is not in itself going to hurt the window, you can just tape it off as you would any other part you do not want PC'ed.. The curing temps are well below what the engine sees.
The concern and what I have personally seen destroy hundreds of engines in airplanes boats, to race cars and motorcycles is.. the media used to strip and prep the cover... lots of nooks and crannies in and around that window to retain media. if it can it will, only to release those particles later after many heat / cool cycles.
The good news is, you're not PC'ing the inside of the cover (id guess)
So degrease the entire thing, dry completely and tape off the inside and cover mating surface with heave 100mph tape.. or better if you're so inclined, make a dummy cover from wood or, steel or aluminum. Silicone the cover to the clutch cover mating surface with high temp RTV. Prep and then PC the outer cover, cure and remove the dummy cover... you now have a clean mating surface, no media inside the cover, no PC on the mating surface interfering with the gasket sealing.
07-07-2016, 12:02 PM
#4
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Seeing as removing it will for sure cause problems.
Seeing as others have PC'ed that cover and not had an issue
I would tape it up and PC the cover, ask your coater to use the lowest temp cure as his materials allow for and see how it goes.. if the seal fails, weeps.. then pop the ring out, press the window out, re set it with high temp black RTV and then buy/make a new steel ring to press in...use a permanent grade bearing and stud locking compound on the new steel ring.
07-25-2016, 06:59 AM
#5
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Middletown, CT
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The concern and what I have personally seen destroy hundreds of engines in airplanes boats, to race cars and motorcycles is.. the media used to strip and prep the cover... lots of nooks and crannies in and around that window to retain media. if it can it will, only to release those particles later after many heat / cool cycles.!
Erik, Thanks for giving me a wake up call on the PC/Media blast grit residue issue! You were so right, the inside of the covers although degreased when I sent them, gathered and held a huge amount of blasting media dust, which although very fine is still super abrasive.
I ended up using Dawn dishwashing detergent and really hot water, then agitated it with some toothbrushes I modified for better handle angle. It took two or three wash/rinse cycles before i was satisfied that the interior of each case was surgically clean. I then blew them out with high pressure air. I have not yet cleaned the left side cover with the sight window, I did the easer ones first to get a method down, I'll tackle that one on Wednesday.
It has been a couple of decades since i have built my last bike, it is great to have you remind me of one of the basic rules, CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN!
Here is a pic of the stator case, the color isn't really how it looks in the pic, it is actually much richer and darker, with a matte finish...
Thanks again!
Last edited by Fastguy59; 07-25-2016 at 11:27 AM.
07-26-2016, 06:53 AM
#8
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More kudo the Mr. Marquez. The sight glass cleaned up perfectly, Q-Tips and Glass cleaner! But...when starting to reassemble the stator case the bolts felt gritty. I stopped and blew the holes out again, still the felt gritty. So I ended up running a 6mmx1.0 bottom in tsp thruough and this is the amount of blasting media that came out of 4 holes.... It's clean now!
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