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-   -   Clutch cover oil sight glass removal (https://www.superhawkforum.com/forums/technical-discussion-28/clutch-cover-oil-sight-glass-removal-34046/)

Fastguy59 07-06-2016 02:46 PM

Clutch cover oil sight glass removal
 
Hi guys,
Any of you know how the little oil level sight glass comes out of the clutch side engine cover? I couldn't find anything in the manual and Honda doesn't list is as a separate part on the fiche.
I want to powder coat all my covers and would like to remove it so the powder coater doesn't f' it up...
Ideas????

E.Marquez 07-06-2016 03:46 PM

It is not a removeable and replaceable designed item, there are no service parts. The window is held inplace with a thin steel ring, window is set in cover and the steel retaining ring is pressed in on top. Removing it will damage the ring for sure.

That said I just removed the window from my spare and damaged cover.
If I was so inclined I could machine a press fit retainer and refit the window, or i could use some epoxy designed for submersion in hot oil and "seal it in place.

PC'ing to cover is not in itself going to hurt the window, you can just tape it off as you would any other part you do not want PC'ed.. The curing temps are well below what the engine sees.

The concern and what I have personally seen destroy hundreds of engines in airplanes boats, to race cars and motorcycles is.. the media used to strip and prep the cover... lots of nooks and crannies in and around that window to retain media. if it can it will, only to release those particles later after many heat / cool cycles.
The good news is, you're not PC'ing the inside of the cover (id guess)
So degrease the entire thing, dry completely and tape off the inside and cover mating surface with heave 100mph tape.. or better if you're so inclined, make a dummy cover from wood or, steel or aluminum. Silicone the cover to the clutch cover mating surface with high temp RTV. Prep and then PC the outer cover, cure and remove the dummy cover... you now have a clean mating surface, no media inside the cover, no PC on the mating surface interfering with the gasket sealing.

Fastguy59 07-07-2016 10:57 AM


Originally Posted by E.Marquez (Post 397320)
It is not a removeable and replaceable designed item, there are no service parts. The window is held inplace with a thin steel ring, window is set in cover and the steel retaining ring is pressed in on top. Removing it will damage the ring for sure.

That said I just removed the window from my spare and damaged cover.
If I was so inclined I could machine a press fit retainer and refit the window, or i could use some epoxy designed for submersion in hot oil and "seal it in place.

PC'ing to cover is not in itself going to hurt the window, you can just tape it off as you would any other part you do not want PC'ed.. The curing temps are well below what the engine sees.

The concern and what I have personally seen destroy hundreds of engines in airplanes boats, to race cars and motorcycles is.. the media used to strip and prep the cover... lots of nooks and crannies in and around that window to retain media. if it can it will, only to release those particles later after many heat / cool cycles.
The good news is, you're not PC'ing the inside of the cover (id guess)
So degrease the entire thing, dry completely and tape off the inside and cover mating surface with heave 100mph tape.. or better if you're so inclined, make a dummy cover from wood or, steel or aluminum. Silicone the cover to the clutch cover mating surface with high temp RTV. Prep and then PC the outer cover, cure and remove the dummy cover... you now have a clean mating surface, no media inside the cover, no PC on the mating surface interfering with the gasket sealing.

Thanks Erik good advice, mostly i was worried about the oil seal at the window! Thanks for taking them to answer!

E.Marquez 07-07-2016 12:02 PM


Originally Posted by Fastguy59 (Post 397345)
Thanks Erik good advice, mostly i was worried about the oil seal at the window! Thanks for taking them to answer!

PC cures at approx 200c so almost 400deg F.. I mis spoke, that is hotter then most motors are going to get at least at the engine case cover... I Do not personally know seal that seal will handle that temp. Id guess it will, but can not know for sure.
Seeing as removing it will for sure cause problems.
Seeing as others have PC'ed that cover and not had an issue

I would tape it up and PC the cover, ask your coater to use the lowest temp cure as his materials allow for and see how it goes.. if the seal fails, weeps.. then pop the ring out, press the window out, re set it with high temp black RTV and then buy/make a new steel ring to press in...use a permanent grade bearing and stud locking compound on the new steel ring.

Fastguy59 07-25-2016 06:59 AM

1 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by E.Marquez (Post 397320)
The concern and what I have personally seen destroy hundreds of engines in airplanes boats, to race cars and motorcycles is.. the media used to strip and prep the cover... lots of nooks and crannies in and around that window to retain media. if it can it will, only to release those particles later after many heat / cool cycles.!

Note Quote shortened for subject by FG59

Erik, Thanks for giving me a wake up call on the PC/Media blast grit residue issue! You were so right, the inside of the covers although degreased when I sent them, gathered and held a huge amount of blasting media dust, which although very fine is still super abrasive.

I ended up using Dawn dishwashing detergent and really hot water, then agitated it with some toothbrushes I modified for better handle angle. It took two or three wash/rinse cycles before i was satisfied that the interior of each case was surgically clean. I then blew them out with high pressure air. I have not yet cleaned the left side cover with the sight window, I did the easer ones first to get a method down, I'll tackle that one on Wednesday.

It has been a couple of decades since i have built my last bike, it is great to have you remind me of one of the basic rules, CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN!

Here is a pic of the stator case, the color isn't really how it looks in the pic, it is actually much richer and darker, with a matte finish...

Thanks again!

Wolverine 07-25-2016 03:39 PM

Bobby, How much do you charge for a fine tooth comb?

Fastguy59 07-25-2016 07:14 PM


Originally Posted by Wolverine (Post 397652)
Bobby, How much do you charge for a fine tooth comb?

A dollar, three-ninety-five... How many do you want

Fastguy59 07-26-2016 06:53 AM

1 Attachment(s)
More kudo the Mr. Marquez. The sight glass cleaned up perfectly, Q-Tips and Glass cleaner! But...when starting to reassemble the stator case the bolts felt gritty. I stopped and blew the holes out again, still the felt gritty. So I ended up running a 6mmx1.0 bottom in tsp thruough and this is the amount of blasting media that came out of 4 holes.... It's clean now!


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