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Cct correct?

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Old 06-02-2014, 04:56 PM
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Cct correct?

Did front and back cct today. Pretty sure I did it right. Followed apes finger right then back it out 1/4. Tension on cam chain seemed very similar to when oem tensioner was in.

No clicks on either removal and did zip tie.

Turned motor over several times via left side crank and got no funny sounds.

Will there be Anyhing that might clue me in that I have done them wrong? Should I crank her and see what she does?
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Old 06-02-2014, 05:31 PM
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Just measure 5-7 mm of slack on the can chains and you know it's right
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:03 PM
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After checking I fired it up. Made a sound that scared me to death. So my hand(rdy at kill switch) instantly shut it off. Then read adjustment threads closely and figured I'd just need an adjustment.

After talking myself down I fired it up and it made almost zero noise. (Think I just panicked at first). When just getting warm any noise went away.

Revved it up and responded nicely!

Never would have confidence and knowledge without forum.

As always thanks
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:26 PM
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yes after i put in the manual CCT's ive had the same noise until she gets warm. it almost sounds like a dry clutch Duc for a few minutes each morning
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Old 06-02-2014, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by jscobey
yes after i put in the manual CCT's ive had the same noise until she gets warm. it almost sounds like a dry clutch Duc for a few minutes each morning
I've heard three different Superhawks with manual CCT's and none of them, including my own, make any noise before it's warmed up.
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Old 06-02-2014, 09:19 PM
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Mine don't make any excessive noise. I adjusted warm and running for the final adjustment.
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Old 06-02-2014, 09:40 PM
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Well I went by the tried and true 7mm can chain slack. Its hard to mess that method of adjustment up...
My guess is you guys probably over tightened the ccts out of fear of the noise. I've seen it time and time again on threads that it makes some noise while warming up when adjusted properly.

Remember the auto ccts are able to keep the cam chain in the optimum slack at any temp / rpm. With the Manuals you only get one setting. Hence why you have the noise. I believe in one of the original "How To's" on MCCTs on the UK board it says its suppose to make some noise if adjusted properly while its warming up.

Mind you I'm talking about from COLD. Like sitting overnight. Only happens when the choke is necessary on start up

***** I could be COMPLETLEY wrong and would love to know if I am.

Last edited by jscobey; 06-02-2014 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 06-02-2014, 11:29 PM
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both of my bikes made a little sound when cold and went away warmed up. I think no sound when cold would end up with too much tension when warm.
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Old 06-03-2014, 12:00 AM
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My bike with mcct's makes zero noise cold. Autos make zero noise cold and its not like they back off tension when warmed up. Thinking about this still makes me nervous but not as nervous as running autos
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Old 06-03-2014, 12:19 AM
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What is making the sound? Yes the chain, but what is the chain hitting to make the sound?

Has anyone checked what the tension is on the chain when the engine is at operating temperature? How much of a difference in tension are we talking about between a warm engine and a cold engine?

EDIT: Nevermind. I haven't been sleeping well lately, so it took me a few minutes to picture what was happening inside the engine to make the noise with the chain. It's not hitting anything. However, my second question still stands.

Last edited by CruxGNZ; 06-03-2014 at 01:01 AM. Reason: Being tired isn't good fer grey matter
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Old 06-03-2014, 02:28 AM
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When I did mine I too was alarmed at the sound they made cold.

Not a bad sound , just different.

I put it down to the fact that the manuals are in a constant position and do not move no matter how hard you rev your motor.

Yes my engine is noisier at idle than with the OEM tensioner, however after 27,000Ks I am used to it.

I have checked the chains 3 times and have not had to adjust the tensioners since I installed them.

I have also listened to a few different Hawk engines and no two sound the same!

If the slack in your chain is 5-7mm then all is well.

I have checked cold and warm and there seemed to be a minuscule difference, however this is hard to validate because I used a steel ruler and it was hard with the engine warm.

Couldn't do it with the motor hot as it took to long to pull everything apart.

I used to lose sleep over this by the way, but now I don't!

Ride and enjoy the fact that valves and pistons won't get jiggy.
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Old 06-03-2014, 07:51 AM
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For some reason I thought the auto's were notched and once there was enough slack in the chain the spring pushed it to the next notch. And once at that position the tensioner stayed there until the chain stretched enough to repeat. If I am wrong then that's one of the reasons why Honda used auto's, to reduce engine noise
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Old 06-03-2014, 12:12 PM
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After that first time it hasn't sounded bad. It sounded so bad Right away tho.

And from what I've read as well it's supossed to make that chatter Ice cold.

It basically stops almost immediately. Maybe like 10 seconds?
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Old 06-03-2014, 02:33 PM
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Chatter....now that's a good word for it. Yes compared to the Auto tensioners Manuals do chatter, not a lot or excessively (whichever word you choose LOL), when cold and is normal as long as it disappears once warmed up.

For some reason I thought the auto's were notched and once there was enough slack in the chain the spring pushed it to the next notch.
Not the Honda style which are notorious to fail but other makes like Suzuki or Yamaha have the ratchet type which are far superier. In fact there is someone in Germany IIRC that makes a rachet type designed for the VTR but they are ridiculously expensive.
Higgens Shop Bereich - Alles rund um die VTR Firestorm und SP1/SP2

[Edit]
Oops it's not been confirmed how the German ones work.

(:-})

Last edited by cybercarl; 06-03-2014 at 02:36 PM.
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