Carb Sync
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Carb Sync
Hey Guys
Did one of my last "fixes" for the winter. Did a carb sync. Things went pretty well..lot's of hard to get at places..grrr..I actually wanted to talk about the gauges I used. Borrowed from a friend..old ..brass made by Suzuki...four units in heavy solid brass hlder...4 glass tudes with lines about 1/2 diameter with small steel ***** inside..like ball bearings..tubes were aout 6 in. long..lines on them...I have seen gauges, mercury columns...twin max..but never something like this..seemed to work well..***** danced a bit...
Question...has anyone noticed slightly different "behavior" between front and back...back ran a tee-off the line to the petcock..front seemed "more active" ball moving...Got them the same ..but they tracked different as I increased rpm....How are some of you setting yours..ever seen gauges like this??
Take Care
Dave:-D
Did one of my last "fixes" for the winter. Did a carb sync. Things went pretty well..lot's of hard to get at places..grrr..I actually wanted to talk about the gauges I used. Borrowed from a friend..old ..brass made by Suzuki...four units in heavy solid brass hlder...4 glass tudes with lines about 1/2 diameter with small steel ***** inside..like ball bearings..tubes were aout 6 in. long..lines on them...I have seen gauges, mercury columns...twin max..but never something like this..seemed to work well..***** danced a bit...
Question...has anyone noticed slightly different "behavior" between front and back...back ran a tee-off the line to the petcock..front seemed "more active" ball moving...Got them the same ..but they tracked different as I increased rpm....How are some of you setting yours..ever seen gauges like this??
Take Care
Dave:-D
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From: Fulton, MO
Yeah, that's about normal for a carb sync. You get them even at idle and raise to 3000 rpm and they go off again. I just find a happy medium, or sync them correctly at 3000, depending on how I feel that day. Look at it this way, where does your bike spend most of its time, idling or 3000?
As far as more active on one or another, only thing I can think of is a vacuum leak, or less compression on one cylinder compared to the other. No use going out and buying a compression tester though. If it runs well and has good power then don't worry about it. Oh, that's right. You've not really ridden the bike yet, have you? Guess you'll have to wait until spring.
As far as more active on one or another, only thing I can think of is a vacuum leak, or less compression on one cylinder compared to the other. No use going out and buying a compression tester though. If it runs well and has good power then don't worry about it. Oh, that's right. You've not really ridden the bike yet, have you? Guess you'll have to wait until spring.
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Carb Sync
Okay Greg that parting shot was cruel...Yeah I kind of knew that was normal, I'm not sure I had the front cylinder attachment completely sealed.. I wondered if the extra line off the back cylinder, plus it's working the petcock changed some of the "feel" of the vacum..anybody ever see this type of vacum gauge..***** in glass tubes???
Take Care
Dave:-D
Take Care
Dave:-D
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The Morgan Carbtune uses steel rods in plastic tubes:
http://www.carbtune.com/index.html
http://www.carbtune.com/index.html
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I have a morgan carbtune and I'm really happy with it and would definitely reccomend it. No mecury or batteries to mess with, just plug it in and tune. As far as the front cylinder is concerned, don' t quote me on this part# check the microfiche on your dealers computer, but Honda part number 90135-MS2-000 will replace that pesky little bolt on your 49 state model with a nipple from the california model made for an emission tube. Once the nipple is installed on your engine you can attach a 2 foot piece of vaccum tubing permanantly to your front cylinder via a little spring clamp and route the other end with wire ties(lightly tightened) over next to, not connected to, the tee you spliced in for the rear cylinder. Put a vaccum coupling on the end of it and attach your gauges to both cylinders at the same location, and when your done place vaccum caps on the coupling and the tee to seal things off. This way you can synchronize in truly less than 5 minutes! A trick to removing that lil bolt without losing it is to loosen it up just enough to wrap single a piece of 22awg wire around it and twist it with needle nose like safety wiring to make a leash. As for installing the nipple, plug some vaccum tubing on the end for a handle and finger tighten to get it started. Good luck!!
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SuperSport
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 758
From: Laurel, MD
I have a morgan carbtune and I'm really happy with it and would definitely reccomend it. No mecury or batteries to mess with, just plug it in and tune. As far as the front cylinder is concerned, don' t quote me on this part# check the microfiche on your dealers computer, but Honda part number 90135-MS2-000 will replace that pesky little bolt on your 49 state model with a nipple from the california model made for an emission tube. Once the nipple is installed on your engine you can attach a 2 foot piece of vaccum tubing permanantly to your front cylinder via a little spring clamp and route the other end with wire ties(lightly tightened) over next to, not connected to, the tee you spliced in for the rear cylinder. Put a vaccum coupling on the end of it and attach your gauges to both cylinders at the same location, and when your done place vaccum caps on the coupling and the tee to seal things off. This way you can synchronize in truly less than 5 minutes! A trick to removing that lil bolt without losing it is to loosen it up just enough to wrap single a piece of 22awg wire around it and twist it with needle nose like safety wiring to make a leash. As for installing the nipple, plug some vaccum tubing on the end for a handle and finger tighten to get it started. Good luck!!
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Superstock
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 442
From: Hampton GA
Glad to see this thread . I am going to attempt to sync mine maybe this weekend. ( per Hawkriders instructions) The engine dying when coming to a quick stop is happening more often since the weathers cooled down . Also hoping to maybe squeeze a couple more MPG out of it. Also going to do the other mod mentioned with vent tube relocation for carb backfire/stumble .
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I use a combination of allen socket, universal joint, and extensions to get that little screw out. Put a dab of grease on the end to help the screw stick to the tool. This way it won't fall into the "Valley of Lost Parts". 
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Joined: Jul 2004
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I have a morgan carbtune and I'm really happy with it and would definitely reccomend it. No mecury or batteries to mess with, just plug it in and tune. As far as the front cylinder is concerned, don' t quote me on this part# check the microfiche on your dealers computer, but Honda part number 90135-MS2-000 will replace that pesky little bolt on your 49 state model with a nipple from the california model made for an emission tube. Once the nipple is installed on your engine you can attach a 2 foot piece of vaccum tubing permanantly to your front cylinder via a little spring clamp and route the other end with wire ties(lightly tightened) over next to, not connected to, the tee you spliced in for the rear cylinder. Put a vaccum coupling on the end of it and attach your gauges to both cylinders at the same location, and when your done place vaccum caps on the coupling and the tee to seal things off. This way you can synchronize in truly less than 5 minutes! A trick to removing that lil bolt without losing it is to loosen it up just enough to wrap single a piece of 22awg wire around it and twist it with needle nose like safety wiring to make a leash. As for installing the nipple, plug some vaccum tubing on the end for a handle and finger tighten to get it started. Good luck!!
I use a set of vacume guages i bought to sync my in-line four. It takes a whole 5 minutes to to this and all tha tis required is a small wrench to turn the adjuster and the guages. I stashed my vacume hoses with plugs just behind the left frame member just to the left of the rear shock
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Carb Sync
Yes.. I found the Valley of Tears..er lost parts..used the grease trick..read that on here somewhere....this site continues to show it's worth...I'm going to look for the permanent attachment..makes great sense...Getting all these things done has got me itching to ride...my first long fun ride will be to Kansas in May... we can usually start getting out in late April...I heard El Nino has faded away...leaving us with some more cold..thanks El..About the gauges...guy told me today... it is boiler quality glass that is actually machined to exact size..interesting...Thanks again for the good feed back
Take Care:-D
Dave
Take Care:-D
Dave
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On the put a "T" into the rear line mod, it's a great idea which makes synching MUCH easier and I did it about 2 years ago. Recently, bike began to run like crap; stumbled, wouldn't pull redline, sounded like on one cylinder, etc. Lots of trouble shooting, pulling tank/airbox/carbs, spending the better part of two days on it.
Ended up being the rubber plug on the "T" had weathered/cracked just enough to leak causing an intermitten fuel flow/shut off at the petcock. It's normally hidden by the left frame member so I was overlooking it. WORD.
Ended up being the rubber plug on the "T" had weathered/cracked just enough to leak causing an intermitten fuel flow/shut off at the petcock. It's normally hidden by the left frame member so I was overlooking it. WORD.
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