carb sync mods
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carb sync mods
I was reviewing some of the previous post about carb sync mods, to make access easier, and particularly liked the one with the bracket on the choke **** which held both tubes. My question is, does splitting the rear vacum tube with a "T" change the amount of vacum? In the factory manual, it says to start the engine, clamp off the rear vacum tube, turn the engine off, then connect to the sync tool. I know if you take a shop vac and constrict the end with a smaller attachment, the sucking power seems to increase. I am worried that when you split the rear vacum tube, the measured vacum on the sync tool may decrease, because it is sucking from both the tool, and from the fuel petcock. Do I not understand vacum properly? Has anyone tried it both ways to see if readings are the same? Does this question even make any sense? Thanks!
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 208
From: East Tennessee
Re: carb sync mods
Since there is no 'flow' through the 'T'd off connection (it is just a static vacuum) it doesn't make any difference in the actual reading to have it 'T'd off or not.
I suppose there are many ways to run the lines and my approach was to make the lines easily accessable but keep them hidden. These shots below may give you another idea before you run your plumbing.
Here is the view you'd see just looking right at the 'stealth' line location
This closer shot shows the two lines capped off and tied back
Both lines are just long enough to get a hold of to hook up the guages.
Here the caps are off and you can see that I took a 1 inch piece of steel brake line and inserted it into the lines. The caps then fit perfectly. My red marker is simply marking the 'rear cyl' line.
By the way, for some reason I had problems using a standard plastic auto 'T' connection at the fuel valve. It would sometimes break if I lifed the tank back. So I got pissed enough to take two pieces of steel brake line and braze them into a 'T' (after drilling a small hole) and now the 'T' connection not being plastic seems to have no problem holding up to abuse.
I suppose there are many ways to run the lines and my approach was to make the lines easily accessable but keep them hidden. These shots below may give you another idea before you run your plumbing.
Here is the view you'd see just looking right at the 'stealth' line location
This closer shot shows the two lines capped off and tied back
Both lines are just long enough to get a hold of to hook up the guages.
Here the caps are off and you can see that I took a 1 inch piece of steel brake line and inserted it into the lines. The caps then fit perfectly. My red marker is simply marking the 'rear cyl' line.
By the way, for some reason I had problems using a standard plastic auto 'T' connection at the fuel valve. It would sometimes break if I lifed the tank back. So I got pissed enough to take two pieces of steel brake line and braze them into a 'T' (after drilling a small hole) and now the 'T' connection not being plastic seems to have no problem holding up to abuse.
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Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 208
From: East Tennessee
Re: carb sync mods
The caps were from an autoparts store, they normally sell in a card display, just ask the parts dude.
No, it doesn't matter where the T is placed, mine is probably 2 inches from the fuel valve.
No, it doesn't matter where the T is placed, mine is probably 2 inches from the fuel valve.
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