Carb set up
The Pirate Sportbiker
Squid
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 55
From: Wisconsin
So, I've talked to a couple different shops in the last week or so, in an effort to order the jets needed to set my carbs up like this and everyone tells me the same thing: The pilot jets are the same from front to back! If this is indeed the case, why does Factory Pro show a picture of two different jets, for the front and rear carbs? If they are not the same, how does the part number provided on page one of this thread (46-9705) get you two different parts? I *thought* I was pretty smart, but this has me feeling pretty dumb.
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,109
From: Skurup, Sweden
So, I've talked to a couple different shops in the last week or so, in an effort to order the jets needed to set my carbs up like this and everyone tells me the same thing: The pilot jets are the same from front to back! If this is indeed the case, why does Factory Pro show a picture of two different jets, for the front and rear carbs? If they are not the same, how does the part number provided on page one of this thread (46-9705) get you two different parts? I *thought* I was pretty smart, but this has me feeling pretty dumb.
Thread Starter
Banned
MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,942
From: Lake View Terrace, CA
The parts that are different (at least that you mess with while adjusting the jetting) are:
1) main jets
2) emulsion tubes
3) stock needles
of course if you modify the front slide for use with the stock velocity stacks then you have a front and rear slide also.
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,109
From: Skurup, Sweden
Yes the pilot jets are the same.
The parts that are different (at least that you mess with while adjusting the jetting) are:
1) main jets
2) emulsion tubes
3) stock needles
of course if you modify the front slide for use with the stock velocity stacks then you have a front and rear slide also.
The parts that are different (at least that you mess with while adjusting the jetting) are:
1) main jets
2) emulsion tubes
3) stock needles
of course if you modify the front slide for use with the stock velocity stacks then you have a front and rear slide also.
The emulsion tubes are however fundamentally different... And agreed, if you modify the slides, they should also be kept in order...
Thread Starter
Banned
MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,942
From: Lake View Terrace, CA
That's semantics... The main jets are functionally the same, you can put them on either carb, based on how you are jetting the bike... They are however different sizes as stock, so mixing them up isn't a great idea...
The emulsion tubes are however fundamentally different... And agreed, if you modify the slides, they should also be kept in order...
The emulsion tubes are however fundamentally different... And agreed, if you modify the slides, they should also be kept in order...
The best way is still to only do one carb at a time until you are familiar with all the parts and know how to identify them.
The Pirate Sportbiker
Squid
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 55
From: Wisconsin
So, based on your original post, 8541Hawk, I could replace and adjust the pilots, shim the needles and "fix" the front slide and I *could* be good to go? I don't *need* to do anything with those emulsion tubes, per se?
My *plan* was to get everything as close as possible and then take it somewhere to have it tuned. I talked to a professional racer, who now runs a repair and tuning shop near me, but he's apparently not interested in my business.
My *plan* was to get everything as close as possible and then take it somewhere to have it tuned. I talked to a professional racer, who now runs a repair and tuning shop near me, but he's apparently not interested in my business.
Thread Starter
Banned
MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,942
From: Lake View Terrace, CA
So, based on your original post, 8541Hawk, I could replace and adjust the pilots, shim the needles and "fix" the front slide and I *could* be good to go? I don't *need* to do anything with those emulsion tubes, per se?
My *plan* was to get everything as close as possible and then take it somewhere to have it tuned. I talked to a professional racer, who now runs a repair and tuning shop near me, but he's apparently not interested in my business.
My *plan* was to get everything as close as possible and then take it somewhere to have it tuned. I talked to a professional racer, who now runs a repair and tuning shop near me, but he's apparently not interested in my business.
As for being good to go, the bikes I have done this too have run fine. Will it be "perfect" maybe, maybe not.... What I mean is that you might need to adjust the size of the shim stack a little bit and also adjust the pilots slightly as each bike is a little different. Though these are things you would need to do with any "jet kit" you install.
It all depends on the bike and how picky you are. Though IMHO it should run pretty good with the base line I stated.
As for someone not wanting your business, Unless they have experience tuning V-twins they will be lost as the most common tuning "error" on these bikes is trying to set them up like a I4, which just doesn't work.
The Pirate Sportbiker
Squid
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 55
From: Wisconsin
I didn't realize that was a common error in tuning V-Twins, 8541Hawk. I did have to explain to dude what I meant by "front and rear carb." *That* should have been my first clue that he might be as lost as I am!
Thanks for the help! Ima get on this ASAP.
Thanks for the help! Ima get on this ASAP.
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 171
From: Las Vegas, Nv
hey hawk.. great right up.. thanks for leading me to this.. i'd like to do this.. and the tps starting tom... now do i need to order 2 of the keihlin pilot jets product # 46-9705 ???
you talk about how great hrc bags come in and nice.. is there somewhere you know of to order the "kit"?? im looking at the site you suggested, i see the keihin pilot jets... do i just order 2?? i've ready every post.. just trying to make sure I get this right... and im sick of hearing how bad the k&N IS!! what kind of air filter should I get?? just a stock one?? or is there a good oem one somewhere??? thanks for any info.. or if anyone can help me out.. new to forum / trying to get my hawk / first bike tip top shape!!! thx all
-shane
you talk about how great hrc bags come in and nice.. is there somewhere you know of to order the "kit"?? im looking at the site you suggested, i see the keihin pilot jets... do i just order 2?? i've ready every post.. just trying to make sure I get this right... and im sick of hearing how bad the k&N IS!! what kind of air filter should I get?? just a stock one?? or is there a good oem one somewhere??? thanks for any info.. or if anyone can help me out.. new to forum / trying to get my hawk / first bike tip top shape!!! thx all
-shane
Thread Starter
Banned
MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,942
From: Lake View Terrace, CA
hey hawk.. great right up.. thanks for leading me to this.. i'd like to do this.. and the tps starting tom... now do i need to order 2 of the keihlin pilot jets product # 46-9705 ???
you talk about how great hrc bags come in and nice.. is there somewhere you know of to order the "kit"?? im looking at the site you suggested, i see the keihin pilot jets... do i just order 2?? i've ready every post.. just trying to make sure I get this right... and im sick of hearing how bad the k&N IS!! what kind of air filter should I get?? just a stock one?? or is there a good oem one somewhere??? thanks for any info.. or if anyone can help me out.. new to forum / trying to get my hawk / first bike tip top shape!!! thx all
-shane
you talk about how great hrc bags come in and nice.. is there somewhere you know of to order the "kit"?? im looking at the site you suggested, i see the keihin pilot jets... do i just order 2?? i've ready every post.. just trying to make sure I get this right... and im sick of hearing how bad the k&N IS!! what kind of air filter should I get?? just a stock one?? or is there a good oem one somewhere??? thanks for any info.. or if anyone can help me out.. new to forum / trying to get my hawk / first bike tip top shape!!! thx all
-shane
The HRC kit is almost impossible to find anymore and if you do find one it will be around $225-$250 so it really isn't necessary. If you really want one I can give you a few leads on tracking one down but like I said, it will be expensive.
For airfilters I just run the Honda stock filter. Just make sure you also have the 2 foam "sub-filters" in the airbox also. They are pos. #10 Honda, ATV Parts, Scooter Parts, Motorcycle Parts,CRF,CR,MX Parts, Goldwing parts and go under the rubber blocks that come with the K&N filter.
Last edited by 8541Hawk; Jul 16, 2012 at 09:23 PM.
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 171
From: Las Vegas, Nv
The Keihin P\N is N424-21-48 (the Honda P\N is 99103-MT2-0480) so just type the P\N into google to find the best price (I've seen them anywhere for $5-$15 a piece) or try to buy them locally.
The HRC kit is almost impossible to find anymore and if you do find one it will be around $225-$250 so it really isn't necessary. If you really want one I can give you a few leads on tracking one down but like I said, it will be expensive.
For airfilters I just run the Honda stock filter. Just make sure you also have the 2 foam "sub-filters" in the airbox also. They are pos. #10 Honda, ATV Parts, Scooter Parts, Motorcycle Parts,CRF,CR,MX Parts, Goldwing parts and go under the rubber blocks that come with the K&N filter.
The HRC kit is almost impossible to find anymore and if you do find one it will be around $225-$250 so it really isn't necessary. If you really want one I can give you a few leads on tracking one down but like I said, it will be expensive.
For airfilters I just run the Honda stock filter. Just make sure you also have the 2 foam "sub-filters" in the airbox also. They are pos. #10 Honda, ATV Parts, Scooter Parts, Motorcycle Parts,CRF,CR,MX Parts, Goldwing parts and go under the rubber blocks that come with the K&N filter.
... i'll go with the 2 keihlin... so i just order 2 of the same correct? maybe i'll just wait to get all the parts to get it all together, as I just won an r/r bid[fh0012] and im still kind of confused if i need to order connectors or if my sh will plug right in.. still waiting for an answer on that part... damn what would myself or people do without you guys!!! you save a hell of a hassle thats for sure.. thanks alot man
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 219
From: Prague - Czech
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 14
Ok, so I decided to document the process... Too much time on my hands, waiting for other parts to come in, liking pictures because words are for panzies, call it what you want but here it is, carb setup à la Mike:
Replacing the #45 pilot jets with #48 (waiting on these parts to come in- Keihin Series 21 jets, correct?)
Alright, I'm guessing that most people who have dug into their carbs this is old news to, and there's a good probability that you shouldn't do things the way that I do, but figured I'd post it up b/c I had a camera anyway.
Mike, thanks a bunch- the explanations all helped, and were spot on in understanding level for someone as inexperienced as me.
Once I get a chance to fire this up, I'm excited to fine tune it. Funny, all of my carb and fuel "mods" entail going back to stock from what the PO installed. I feel like I'm upgrading "yeah, I loaded it with an OEM filter and uninstalled a FactoryPro Kit. Pretty sweet stuff, eh!?"
Replacing the #45 pilot jets with #48 (waiting on these parts to come in- Keihin Series 21 jets, correct?)
Alright, I'm guessing that most people who have dug into their carbs this is old news to, and there's a good probability that you shouldn't do things the way that I do, but figured I'd post it up b/c I had a camera anyway.
Mike, thanks a bunch- the explanations all helped, and were spot on in understanding level for someone as inexperienced as me.
Once I get a chance to fire this up, I'm excited to fine tune it. Funny, all of my carb and fuel "mods" entail going back to stock from what the PO installed. I feel like I'm upgrading "yeah, I loaded it with an OEM filter and uninstalled a FactoryPro Kit. Pretty sweet stuff, eh!?"
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 582
From: Santa Fe, New Mexico
The Keihin P\N is N424-21-48 (the Honda P\N is 99103-MT2-0480) so just type the P\N into google to find the best price (I've seen them anywhere for $5-$15 a piece) or try to buy them locally.
The HRC kit is almost impossible to find anymore and if you do find one it will be around $225-$250 so it really isn't necessary. If you really want one I can give you a few leads on tracking one down but like I said, it will be expensive.
For airfilters I just run the Honda stock filter. Just make sure you also have the 2 foam "sub-filters" in the airbox also. They are pos. #10 Honda, ATV Parts, Scooter Parts, Motorcycle Parts,CRF,CR,MX Parts, Goldwing parts and go under the rubber blocks that come with the K&N filter.
The HRC kit is almost impossible to find anymore and if you do find one it will be around $225-$250 so it really isn't necessary. If you really want one I can give you a few leads on tracking one down but like I said, it will be expensive.
For airfilters I just run the Honda stock filter. Just make sure you also have the 2 foam "sub-filters" in the airbox also. They are pos. #10 Honda, ATV Parts, Scooter Parts, Motorcycle Parts,CRF,CR,MX Parts, Goldwing parts and go under the rubber blocks that come with the K&N filter.
Thread Starter
Banned
MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,942
From: Lake View Terrace, CA
As far as filters go, I noticed you didn't mention K&N. I expect K&N would cause even leaner mixture. I know only a little about these carburetors, but is it possible to raise the needle one position and use main jets a step or two larger than stock to resolve the lean problem?
Personally I tried to get one to work and after 2 years of messing with it, gave it away and went back to the stock filter on the recomendation of a Moriwaki tech and have never looked back.
In my testing, the K&N would give 2-3 HP on the top end but would always cause a approx. 5 HP "hole" somewhere in the powerband.
So that is why I don't recommend them and yes I tried more configureations in those 2 years than you could count....
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,871
From: Phoenix, AZ
7moore7, In your 2nd pic, at the front of the frame and under the airbox (where the snorkel would end at) is differnt than my stock 02' mine is blocked by a part of the plastic under cover. Did you mod this and if so is it recommended? I assumed it was closed off to get warmer air from the motor and less fresh cold from up front... Thanks in advance!
Running a naked style bike changed the airflow dynamics coming into the airbox, which took a little bit of tinkering to get right. Enough to know that the engineers at Honda weren't just twiddling their thumbs when working everything out. Even people with quite a bit of engine mods will find that the most they want to do is cut out the little divider in the snorkle or drill a couple of big holes in the air dam on the filter and add some billett stacks.
How's that for a non-wordy answer?
Thread Starter
Banned
MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,942
From: Lake View Terrace, CA
I personally did not remove that cover- the bike came to me a little bit of a nutcase, so I wasn't even actually aware that the piece that you are talking about existed until just now! Initially I'd say don't mod the airflow into the bike. The big airbox and sensitive carbs seem to do well when they're close to stock unless you have extensive engine mods.
Running a naked style bike changed the airflow dynamics coming into the airbox, which took a little bit of tinkering to get right. Enough to know that the engineers at Honda weren't just twiddling their thumbs when working everything out. Even people with quite a bit of engine mods will find that the most they want to do is cut out the little divider in the snorkle or drill a couple of big holes in the air dam on the filter and add some billett stacks.
How's that for a non-wordy answer?
Running a naked style bike changed the airflow dynamics coming into the airbox, which took a little bit of tinkering to get right. Enough to know that the engineers at Honda weren't just twiddling their thumbs when working everything out. Even people with quite a bit of engine mods will find that the most they want to do is cut out the little divider in the snorkle or drill a couple of big holes in the air dam on the filter and add some billett stacks.
How's that for a non-wordy answer?
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,871
From: Phoenix, AZ
Hm, and the fiche does label it a "heat guard". Perhaps I should look into upgrading my bike back to stock here too, lol!
Bonehead PO... joke's on him though! I know way more about the VTR than he ever came close to...
Bonehead PO... joke's on him though! I know way more about the VTR than he ever came close to...
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 6
From: Central Kansas
HELP!!!!!!!
I've tried to void posting my petty setup questions. You guys on this site are first rate ( as with all honda ownersa former supermagna guy personally )
Now I have to ask for some help. I bought this beast with. Bad driveability issue I eventually traced to the fuel petcock vacum line hooked to the wrong spot. However I already hd the carbs off for inspection. Found a dynojet stage one already done. I did some other mods too while apart. We'll skip jetting and such for now.
Bottom line………front carb slide will not pull up when throttle is opened. Obviously the bike is very down on power and fron cyl runs lean. I just can't figure it out. Diaphram is entact and setup mirrors the rear. I keep thining it has something to do with the sloppy slide drilling this guy did with the dynojet kit. I will take any advice. I am thinking about just plugging the 3rd hole on the assembly that holds the needle.
Slide moves freely and tension is relatively the same as rear. I am pretty well at a loss.
thanks in advance. I promise to post and help other members once I have mastered carb and chassis setup on this beast!
I've tried to void posting my petty setup questions. You guys on this site are first rate ( as with all honda ownersa former supermagna guy personally )
Now I have to ask for some help. I bought this beast with. Bad driveability issue I eventually traced to the fuel petcock vacum line hooked to the wrong spot. However I already hd the carbs off for inspection. Found a dynojet stage one already done. I did some other mods too while apart. We'll skip jetting and such for now.
Bottom line………front carb slide will not pull up when throttle is opened. Obviously the bike is very down on power and fron cyl runs lean. I just can't figure it out. Diaphram is entact and setup mirrors the rear. I keep thining it has something to do with the sloppy slide drilling this guy did with the dynojet kit. I will take any advice. I am thinking about just plugging the 3rd hole on the assembly that holds the needle.
Slide moves freely and tension is relatively the same as rear. I am pretty well at a loss.
thanks in advance. I promise to post and help other members once I have mastered carb and chassis setup on this beast!
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 6
From: Central Kansas
Follow up question……if I plug the front should I plug the rear or just leave well enough alone?
Running 190 jets fron/rear, 4+ ignition advancer, k&n filter, muzzy ti exhaust, rear emulsion tube installed in front, #50 pilots front and rear, two long velocity stacks, needles are set at four spots from top.
Running 190 jets fron/rear, 4+ ignition advancer, k&n filter, muzzy ti exhaust, rear emulsion tube installed in front, #50 pilots front and rear, two long velocity stacks, needles are set at four spots from top.
RUNLEVELZERO #99
SuperBike
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,219
From: Skokie
see red responses below
190 mains IMO are to large and usually the rear is one size larger but it is not essential to be so. The use of the rear needle jet (e-tube) in the front is not normally required. A #50 pilot is too big, at most a #48 is necessary and even the OE #45 can work. Needle height is variable bit the use of one shim is recommended for needle stability. Get rid of the K&N and run the OE filter. The advancer can cause detonation which can be squelched with more fuel but then it will be rich. Higher octane fuel can help this also.
HELP!!!!!!!
I've tried to void posting my petty setup questions. You guys on this site are first rate ( as with all honda ownersa former supermagna guy personally )
Now I have to ask for some help. I bought this beast with. Bad driveability issue I eventually traced to the fuel petcock vacum line hooked to the wrong spot. However I already hd the carbs off for inspection. Found a dynojet stage one already done. I did some other mods too while apart. We'll skip jetting and such for now.
Bottom line………front carb slide will not pull up when throttle is opened. Obviously the bike is very down on power and fron cyl runs lean. I just can't figure it out. Diaphram is entact and setup mirrors the rear. I keep thining it has something to do with the sloppy slide drilling this guy did with the dynojet kit. I will take any advice. I am thinking about just plugging the 3rd hole on the assembly that holds the needle.
U cannot plug the hole for the needle. It sounds like either is occurring: U did not install the slide diaphragm "o-ring" properly in its corresponding circumferential "slot" and thus negative pressure can not occur above and draw up the slide; or, their is a tear, pin hole or separation of the diaphragm (where it attaches to the slide), again making a vacuum above the slide impossible. If the FO did drill an additional hole and installed Dynojet springs, you can temporarily plug and see how it runs (after fixing the diaphragm issue) but since you are already running the longer OE rear velocity stack in the front, you do not need to plug any holes.
Slide moves freely and tension is relatively the same as rear. I am pretty well at a loss.
thanks in advance. I promise to post and help other members once I have mastered carb and chassis setup on this beast!
I've tried to void posting my petty setup questions. You guys on this site are first rate ( as with all honda ownersa former supermagna guy personally )
Now I have to ask for some help. I bought this beast with. Bad driveability issue I eventually traced to the fuel petcock vacum line hooked to the wrong spot. However I already hd the carbs off for inspection. Found a dynojet stage one already done. I did some other mods too while apart. We'll skip jetting and such for now.
Bottom line………front carb slide will not pull up when throttle is opened. Obviously the bike is very down on power and fron cyl runs lean. I just can't figure it out. Diaphram is entact and setup mirrors the rear. I keep thining it has something to do with the sloppy slide drilling this guy did with the dynojet kit. I will take any advice. I am thinking about just plugging the 3rd hole on the assembly that holds the needle.
U cannot plug the hole for the needle. It sounds like either is occurring: U did not install the slide diaphragm "o-ring" properly in its corresponding circumferential "slot" and thus negative pressure can not occur above and draw up the slide; or, their is a tear, pin hole or separation of the diaphragm (where it attaches to the slide), again making a vacuum above the slide impossible. If the FO did drill an additional hole and installed Dynojet springs, you can temporarily plug and see how it runs (after fixing the diaphragm issue) but since you are already running the longer OE rear velocity stack in the front, you do not need to plug any holes.
Slide moves freely and tension is relatively the same as rear. I am pretty well at a loss.
thanks in advance. I promise to post and help other members once I have mastered carb and chassis setup on this beast!
Follow up question……if I plug the front should I plug the rear or just leave well enough alone? see above
Running 190 jets fron/rear, 4+ ignition advancer, k&n filter, muzzy ti exhaust, rear emulsion tube installed in front, #50 pilots front and rear, two long velocity stacks, needles are set at four spots from top.
Running 190 jets fron/rear, 4+ ignition advancer, k&n filter, muzzy ti exhaust, rear emulsion tube installed in front, #50 pilots front and rear, two long velocity stacks, needles are set at four spots from top.
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 6
From: Central Kansas
Thanks for the reply skokievtr!
Since I was visiting inlaws and hiding in the workshop I had done some tinkering before I saw your reply. I went ahead and plugged the third (aux drilled) hole in both front and rear slides. Also removed the inner unit that holds the needle and plugged it. Basically restored the slides to factory.
I was extra careful during inspection and assembly of the front carb slide and diaphram. When assembled I now have some movement of the front slide though not even 1/2 of what the rear has. Test ride yielded predictable results. Running a bit fat on fuel but not that bad. Still lacking power but with some improvement.
I am irritated that the pilot jet sent to me by factory pro is a 50 and everyone recommends the 48. Of course I don't even have the factory 45 thanks to the p/o.
Guess I am gonna tear it all apart again and start over. Not trying to ignore the advice given but nobody likes hearing you have to start from scratch. I hate the thought of ditching the filter and the advancer to go back to stock. I have had good luck with both in the past. The only exception being the super magna which hated aftermarket filters.
I will report back later.
Since I was visiting inlaws and hiding in the workshop I had done some tinkering before I saw your reply. I went ahead and plugged the third (aux drilled) hole in both front and rear slides. Also removed the inner unit that holds the needle and plugged it. Basically restored the slides to factory.
I was extra careful during inspection and assembly of the front carb slide and diaphram. When assembled I now have some movement of the front slide though not even 1/2 of what the rear has. Test ride yielded predictable results. Running a bit fat on fuel but not that bad. Still lacking power but with some improvement.
I am irritated that the pilot jet sent to me by factory pro is a 50 and everyone recommends the 48. Of course I don't even have the factory 45 thanks to the p/o.
Guess I am gonna tear it all apart again and start over. Not trying to ignore the advice given but nobody likes hearing you have to start from scratch. I hate the thought of ditching the filter and the advancer to go back to stock. I have had good luck with both in the past. The only exception being the super magna which hated aftermarket filters.
I will report back later.
Last edited by GGarth; Jul 27, 2012 at 08:49 PM.
Slacker
Superstock
Superstock
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 489
From: San Antonio, TX
Hey Garth, you said earlier that a DynoJet kit was installed previously. But, FactoryPro has the 1.7 kit that is somewhat similar to the DJ installation with a third hole drilled in the slides, but with smaller holes than DJ uses. And with the 50 pilots and rear emulsion tube on in the front, this points toward the FP kit. This kit would also have the air jets drilled larger which would likely necessitate bigger main jets for the fuel.
Did you notice the brand markings on the main jets?
As for the front slide not opening up fast enough, have you done a proper carb synch? Did you check the valve timing and clearances? Compression test?
And, for what it's worth, I have not been able to get my engine to run well with a long stack on the front carb.
Did you notice the brand markings on the main jets?
As for the front slide not opening up fast enough, have you done a proper carb synch? Did you check the valve timing and clearances? Compression test?
And, for what it's worth, I have not been able to get my engine to run well with a long stack on the front carb.
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 14
I personally did not remove that cover- the bike came to me a little bit of a nutcase, so I wasn't even actually aware that the piece that you are talking about existed until just now! Initially I'd say don't mod the airflow into the bike. The big airbox and sensitive carbs seem to do well when they're close to stock unless you have extensive engine mods.
Running a naked style bike changed the airflow dynamics coming into the airbox, which took a little bit of tinkering to get right. Enough to know that the engineers at Honda weren't just twiddling their thumbs when working everything out. Even people with quite a bit of engine mods will find that the most they want to do is cut out the little divider in the snorkle or drill a couple of big holes in the air dam on the filter and add some billett stacks.
How's that for a non-wordy answer?
Running a naked style bike changed the airflow dynamics coming into the airbox, which took a little bit of tinkering to get right. Enough to know that the engineers at Honda weren't just twiddling their thumbs when working everything out. Even people with quite a bit of engine mods will find that the most they want to do is cut out the little divider in the snorkle or drill a couple of big holes in the air dam on the filter and add some billett stacks.
How's that for a non-wordy answer?
Thread Starter
Banned
MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,942
From: Lake View Terrace, CA
Joe Fo Sho
Squid
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 50
From: Cleveland,Oh
shimming question
So how many washers should be under each needle when reassembling? there was one under each needle from factory right? Does one washer equal .010"? It confuses me when it says to achieve .030 and .040 inches higher than stock you remove the washer from front needle and leave it in rear. Also anyone know what the air screws were at from factory?
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 14
Hey gang, So, I performed your recommendations and so far so good. Actually at ~115 hp, I believe that I'm 10 hp over the dyno I did with a K & N and dynojet kit (it was some years ago but I believe it was at 105 hp, at the MOST it was 108hp). I have 1 question for ya'll. The tech, who is VERY knowledgable (has been building race bikes for years for years for many successful people, organizations) noted that everything looked really good accept that he said it was "pretty rich" at idle. I think it was hovering around 8 or 9 when apparently 13 is the magic number. His though before we went through all the test was to lower the needles and turn the mix screws in a 1/2 turn. After all the tests, he seemed very happy with the results and said maybe just turn the screws in 1/2 or even just 1/4 and see what happens. Unfortunatly I didn't bring my tool so couldn't do it on the spot. I'm just wondering what your thought on this are. I know that the bikes like to be a bit rich but is this abnormal given the results look pretty dang good in all other regards? And, would turning the mix screws in a bit affect the results we got negatively in terms of hp or torque? Thanks so much for your time and any imput... Oh yeah, dyno results are attached.
Oh yeah, also, both needles are the same height as I could not really find the right thickness washers (or perhaps too lazy) to get the front a tad lower. If I recall, both are close to .40 above stock. #48 pilots, stock mains and stock filter. Thanks again.
Oh yeah, also, both needles are the same height as I could not really find the right thickness washers (or perhaps too lazy) to get the front a tad lower. If I recall, both are close to .40 above stock. #48 pilots, stock mains and stock filter. Thanks again.
Last edited by strokeburger; Sep 29, 2012 at 10:12 PM.
