Haha, Marquez, for the sake of discussion, and there's more than likely stuff that I don't know about:

There are definitely levels and types of neglect... bands showing in tires, no headlights, riding angry, not checking brake system, etc. For instance, SmokinJoe would adamantly support adding as many turn signals, lighting systems and horns to the bike as possible, and not doing so is a form of negligent riding. I'd guess that he'd have some level of discomfort riding a stock Honda after building his rolling traffic signal... I'm getting a little off track here. What I mean is that if your brakes aren't working: super dangerous. If your horn isn't working: Less of a big deal. I've never once used mine other than to test if it works. How bad would not syncing the carbs particularly be?

And here's also part of my though process... swapping some pilot jets and shimming the needles will have an effect if the carbs are already sync'd (they may not be), but it's not going to make as big of a difference as adding performance parts or putting carbs from a different bike on. So it's not like it won't run.

I wasn't trying to say not to sync the carbs. And I also pointed out that it is part of the process and should be done as such. I should have added: If you don't have the means or plans to sync them, then don't mess with changing the jets. But I also was under the thought that not syncing them for a time wouldn't be particularly dangerous (again, a properly tuned bike is always safer... not saying that it isn't). Do you think this is a dangerous activity, or just not particularly ideal?

P.S. I'm partially speaking from the idea that the first time I try something like this, it's sometimes easier to brake it down into a couple of steps. One to mod the carbs, one to sync them. Then it's more manageable. Now that I've done it... piece of cake to just pop the hoses on and grab my 7mm socket and fish it into the frame to make any necessary adjustments.

 

Don't worry - I am too old, got too many broken bones, and have already been down a few times. I now have a strict 2 (low-octane) beer limit when I ride.

When I am off the bike - that's another story

When I get all the stuff here and complete this maintenance, I'll report back for other noobs.

 

for bikes being employed on the road, Roger Ditchfield (of Revolution sport within the Britain, for people who are not at home with him) recommends against drilling the additional hole as required the within the DJ kit installation procedure...
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2013 MERCEDES BENZ SL-CLASS

 

I know this is an old thread, but thought I'd try this question anyway....

My storm has been running progressively worse recently, so thought I would try this setup. I'm running Rumus Cans and standard air filter.
So I stripped the carbs and found dynojet needles & extra holes on the sliders.
My question is this....if I want to take the bike back to a stock(ish) platform, can I adjust the clip/washers on the needle, to give the same size as the standard ones?
And if so, what notch would it be?

Thanks

 

Well if you have a DJ Kit you probably have DJ main jets which are different in sizing from OEM and Factory Pro.

If you want to avoid alot of tuning you should probably go to Hawk's setup and epoxy the added hole in the slide, I would get the 48 slo's the stock needles and a couple of washers and be done with it, just follow the thread.

 

Hi
I have the jets and was ready to do the mod including blocking the holes. But my question really is, can I set the clip on the dynojet needles to the same spec as the standard ones, or am I going to have to source originals?
Cheers

 

I have been reading this for a while now and assembling the parts needed to complete this procedure but have a question that perhaps someone here can answer for me.

I purchased a used set of carbs thinking I could make the upgrades on them and just swap out my stock unit. I found a set on Ebay and (not looking close enough at the pics) found out that they are missing the jet needles. I also noticed the float bowl screws have been changed to Allen Heads so now I'm wondering if the P.O. (not who I bought them from) had done some carb work to them.

I also noticed something that doesn't look right. On the rear carb at the intake area where there are 4 small brass tubes, one looks like it's been altered with something that looks like solder. The hole in the tube is smaller that all the others. Here's a few pics to illustrate.



I checked my manual but can't find these little buggers in there. I'm assuming they are factory installed and not replaceable. Has anyone seem anything like this before and if so, any ideas how it happens and is it fixable?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Well not having a crystal ball or wayback machine,,, I can only guess...but it looks like those air jets have been modified, as you observed, soldered and then drilled to a different size bleed hole.. And also correct, they are not available as a service part.

Seeing as they are solder i assume they have a smaller then stock hole.. you could try to heat them and use some desolder braid to wick the solder away... Or get come pin drills, find the correct size of the stock bleed jet and then drill through to that size.

 

E. Marquez, Thanks for your input. I was thinking that if it was solder, I might try melting/desoldering it to see if that helps. It's only on the rear carb and not the front.

I may just keep this carb bank for spares and pull my original ones to modify them since I know they are stock.

Thanks again for your ideas.

 

Ok, so I have completed the following carb changes:

Filled one lift hole on front slide with epoxy
Changed Pilots to #48
Shimmed front needle .04, rear needle .06
Left stock main jets #175 and #178
Fuel screws turned out 2.25 front, 2.50 rear
New OEM air filter

Other mods include:

D&D slips ons with race baffles
TPS set at about 500
Pair disabled with block off plates and all associated CA smog gear removed
4 deg Factory Timing Advancer
Manual CCT
Fresh spark plugs
Operating at about 3600 ft. of elevation.

I haven't balanced the carbs yet but do have them set up to do it. While the carbs were off, I added the necessary vacuum tubes (equal lengths) and a tee off the petcock hose. Since it was a CA bike, I already had the boost joint on the front. Both hoses have been capped off.

When I initially started the bike, I did have to dial up the idle screw to get it to read around 1200 rpm off the bike's tach.

I took it out for a test ride and found that while I have lost some top end speed, it seems a lot smoother throughout the rev range.

I'm wondering if balancing the carbs will help out with the top end or just smooth out the entire range.

From what I've read, it's the main jets that are responsible for top end (7.5K up to red line) performance so I'm wondering if I need to change them out.

If there's something I missing here or if there are any other ideas, I'm open to hearing them.

Thanks!

 

ode to flying low

perception is a slippery slope on which the seat of your pants slides

scientific measurement is the only way to know

a smoother torque curve may seem like a loss of top end.

do you mean miles per hour or acceleration

use of a dyno and sniffer to reach a fair bit above stoichiometric perfection is where the beast likes it. Read the plugs after a proper chop and don't forget to read the electrode, insulator AND ground. If in doubt, they have said for over 100 years "run fat run longer"

Temps should be monitored including the header with one of them fancy hand held infra-red digital thermometers that the Chinese make so cheap and have a cool laser (an IR 12:1 spot ratio is had for $30)

time 50 to 100 with a gps, its so easy

keep track of elevation, dew point, ambient, coolant & fuel temps, relative humidity, fuel quality and octane (stock motors can tolerate pure 87 but may prefer 89 e-10 God forbid e-15)

FR kits with 2 bungs run under 250 are 12v and fit in a tank bag


O' he sayeth from high winged wonder with nay only one prop so keenly aware of surely fowl consequences if it stops

 

Wow What he said!

 

I'll do a plug chop and see what the plugs tell me.

Thanks