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cam issues? ALL HELP NEEDED!!!

Old 05-10-2016, 05:53 AM
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cam issues? ALL HELP NEEDED!!!

hey guys, got a huge issue with the 98 vtr1000. at the moment it will not turn over at all with the starter. i was able to turn the motor over by ratchet at the crankshaft, everything feels really smooth, but i cannot do a full 360 on it. it also makes a clicking noise before it stops rotating. i pulled the valve covers off and found the clicking noise in the front cylinder. please see attached video. i have not pulled anything else apart yet and just wondering what you guys think. first time tearing into the motor so all help appreciated. i will try and get back to the forum as much as i can.

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Old 05-10-2016, 06:05 AM
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Quite possibly a bent vavle. What does your timing look like on that cylinder? Are you running manual or automatic cam chain tensioners?
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Old 05-10-2016, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Meier Link View Post
Quite possibly a bent vavle. What does your timing look like on that cylinder? Are you running manual or automatic cam chain tensioners?
As far as i can tell they are the stock cam chain tensioners. Have not looked at timing yet but ill have to read up on the manual for that. First time having issues and first time for this bike.
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Old 05-10-2016, 06:59 AM
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they are stock cam chain tensioners, seems a little loose. but i cannot get the motor 360 degrees out to mark the ft mark on the fly wheel and then the cam marks to the top of the valve head.
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Old 05-10-2016, 08:14 AM
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What lead up to this? Was it running one day and wouldn't turn over the next or did you experience some sort of failure while running?
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Old 05-10-2016, 08:25 AM
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ran fine no problems. stoped to have dinner, started it back up and had a slight ticking. didnt think anything about it, had no sort of lost power, no backfiring nothing everything was running just fine. i rode home about 20 min. didnt have any issues, no overheating, sound would get a little faster with throttle but nothing too crazy, again no back firing or loss of power. when i got home took my helmet off and looked it over, did not see anything wrong with it. hit the starter and it turned over then almost froze. does not turn over any more.
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Old 05-10-2016, 10:56 AM
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Your cam chain is jumping on the cam gear. That is what the clicking noise is. I can see it happening on the video. Your cam timing is now off and your engine will not operate correctly, because this is an interference engine. "Interference engine" means the valves will hit the pistons if the timing is off.

Three reasons why this is happening.
#1 You bent a valve and this is preventing the cam from turning.
#2 Your cam chain tensioner let go and this is slacking the cam chain causing it to jump on the cam gear.
#3 Timing is off and a valve is hitting the top of the piston preventing you from rotating the engine

I am going to go with #2 & #3. Going off the video and what you wrote, your CCT (Cam Chain Tensioner) let go. You might have got lucky and not bent anything. Only one way to find out though!

Last edited by CruxGNZ; 05-10-2016 at 11:06 AM. Reason: Three for those that are counting
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Old 05-10-2016, 09:22 PM
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I'm thinking all three. The ticking has me thinking the valve might not of been bent during running but possibly enough to chip the valves edge. Hence the clicking he's talking about and it's increase during rpm increases.

I'm still thinking cct failure after rewatching the video. But as stated there's only one way to find out. It's time to get your hands dirty.
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Old 05-11-2016, 11:03 AM
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Just check your valve clearences. If they are WAY off, you probably have a bent valve.
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Old 05-11-2016, 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by blurkx View Post
started it back up and had a slight ticking.
Oops, I missed that. You very well could have bent a valve. Like I mentioned, check your valve clearences.

Worst case scenario, you get a new (used) head off eBay and swap it in. It is not as hard as you may think.
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Old 05-11-2016, 02:32 PM
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Bummer!
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Old 05-14-2016, 12:00 PM
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found it... at least at the moment.

well, finally got some time to pull the bike apart, kind of a nightmare actually but i thats the price you get to have an amazing bike this this!

2 bent valves on the exhaust side of the fwd cylinder. piston looks to be ok. engine rotates freely without any binding or the stopping at one spot.

i did not pull the head off the rear at the moment. what does everyone recommend? i am going to have to replace the valves and gaskets at the moment, should i replace all 4 valves? im not going to say "money is not an issue" but since its off why not or just leave it alone? where do you guys have the best luck for parts too?

i have the service manual so im not afraid to change/replace anything plus with your help i can achieve anything.

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Last edited by blurkx; 05-14-2016 at 12:05 PM.
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Old 05-14-2016, 12:38 PM
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Looks like your CCT broke and let your cam chain go slack and, pistons say hello to valves.

By far, the easiest way is to get a complete head of eBay and swap it in. Don't forget to buy a head gasket. Then buy manual CCT's and follow this tutorial:
www.vtr1000.org ? View topic - Manual Cam Chain Tensioner Installation Guide (MCCT's)

If you want to tackle the head yourself, you will need to take it apart and see what needs to be replaced. Most likely install new guides, seals, and exhaust valves. Download the service manual from our Knowledge Base here. It will tell you how to do everything. You will need several special tools as well.
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Old 05-14-2016, 05:07 PM
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Do everything while you are in there, then never go in there again...

James
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Old 05-14-2016, 05:29 PM
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Haha! What he said.


EDIT: Heres a decent head. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-VTR100...1TBmL0&vxp=mtr

With gaskets and fluids, you could have your bike back on the road for around $200.

Last edited by CruxGNZ; 05-14-2016 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 05-15-2016, 02:19 AM
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That is a decent price for a head, but it is a rear. blurkx needs a front.
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Old 05-15-2016, 10:22 AM
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Whoops! Thanks for catching that Steve. I was multi tasking and missed a small detail.
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Old 05-15-2016, 12:32 PM
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Actually, I believe a rear head could be made to work on the front with a little machining and other work, but I've never seen it done.
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Old 05-15-2016, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by VTR1000F View Post
Actually, I believe a rear head could be made to work on the front with a little machining and other work, but I've never seen it done.
Of course you've seen it done
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ylinder-32687/
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Old 05-15-2016, 04:29 PM
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OK, allow me to rephrase. I don't remember ever seeing it done.

I posted five times in that thread. I'm getting old.
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Old 03-08-2017, 11:55 PM
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well im finally back to getting around to tinkering with my bike. have not done anything yet other than pull out the valves. does anyone know a good source for the buying valves, seals? i see the seals on amazon, and one valve on ebay, i got lucky with my vintage cl450 on honda twins for getting some parts from another member. anyone got 2 exhaust valves and willing to part with them?

i have tools at work and could do the rear to the front but that just seems .... CRAZY!!! not to mention the machinist would have my head for touching his stuff.
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Old 03-09-2017, 10:26 AM
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Honda dealer or an online Honda parts dealer depending on where you are located?
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Old 03-09-2017, 02:16 PM
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I have a head laying around not sure if it is the front or the back but will check if you want.
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Old 03-11-2017, 01:11 AM
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First of all I really wish honda would own up to this. Second the rebuild thread is a little over loaded with info. Third. If you cant find all of your parts for under 100 I can buy a set and mail em to you then you just send the cash to my return address if and when you get em. I forgot what I paid but it was dirt cheap. The thing no one mentions or I dont remember seeing is you need acess to shims and a valve clearence tool. I come from the car world and I just about dont use a clearence tool anymore because almost everything is hydraulic now. I cut my valve stems to match my shims and sure enough after wear in it ticks on one valve so I need a bigger shim. I cant stress enough needing shims and I strongly recommend having a machine seat the vlalves. Doing it by hand is a pain in the rear and not as clean as a machine job. Also A big bolt tapped through the stock tensioner body worked great for me. Dont over tighten and dont forget your NUTS!
There is a great guide by Cybercarl at vtr1000.org he covers everything.
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