seb421

Basicaly i have been following this procedure

NOTE:-
If you do decide to follow my instruction's you do so at your own risk!
As far as I can be sure you won't have any problems if you follow them correctly, but I can't be held responsible if something did go wrong as I'm sure you'll appreciate!

The problem with not removing the cam covers (well one cover anyway) is you may be at TDC but not on the compression stroke, in which case the cam chain will jump over the cam sprockets and you will then have a lot bigger job on, than just changing the CCT's, as you will have to re-set the valve timing!

The following imo is the quickest and safest way I've found to replace the CCT's

(1) Remove seat

(2) Disconnect block connector on end of wiring from fuel tank (located under-seat in front of battery box)

(3) Unbolt fuel tank, turn fuel tap off with 8mm open end spanner and disconnect all hoses noting where each one goes first (use masking tape and write on it if you won't remember) then lift off tank (easier to do when tank is nearly empty)

(4) Remove air filter box lid and air filter, then remove the two air intake trumpets, (noting where each one goes as they are different lengths) cover the intake holes of each carb with a clean rag so nothing can fall in there, next remove the screws holding the air box to the carbs and disconnect the breather hoses then remove the air box itself

(5) Remove the spark plugs and cover holes with clean rags

(6) Remove the two caps from the alternator housing (left-hand side of bike when sitting on it) be very careful removing the center one as it's made of very soft material

(7) Using a socket and tee bar in the center hole of the alternator cover turn the engine over (anti-clockwise) until the timing mark 'RT' lines up with the mark on the alternator cover which can be seen in the 2nd hole of the alternator cover

(8 ) Remove the rear cam cover (it's much easier than the front one) also note models with the pair system will have a metal locating dowel between cylinder head and cam cover, not applicable on UK models

(9) Now looking at the camshafts, the lobes should be facing to-wards each other, if not turn the engine over one full turn (360 degrees) until the 'RT' mark is re-aligned, they should now be facing to-wards each other and the marks RI and RE on the camshaft sprockets should be level with the top part of the cylinder head and will be facing away from each other, you are now ready to remove the rear CCT

seb421

(10) Unscrew the small bolt in the end of the rear CCT (beware a small amount of oil will run out) and turn the screw head inside clockwise to fully retract the plunger of the tensioner with a small screwdriver, (Haynes manual show you how to make a simple tool to make life easier) holding the small screwdriver in place undo and remove the tensioner, you can then release the tension slowly (especially if you intend to re-use them) and remove the screwdriver

(11) Clean off mating surfaces, fit new gasket and new CCT, (they come already retracted) once fully tightened up you can release the CCT plunger making sure it unwinds slowly until full tension is released, then remove tensioning tool and re-fit sealing washer and bolt, then re-fit cam cover. REMEMBER TO TAKE THE METAL CAPS OFF THE OLD CCT PLUNGER HEADS AND FIT ONTO THE NEW ONES, AS THE NEW ONES ARE NOT SUPPLIED WITH THEM!!!!!!.

(12) Now turn the engine over anti-clockwise 450 degrees (one and a quarter turns) until the 'FT' mark lines up with the mark on the alternator cover, you are now ready to remove the front CCT using the same procedure as the rear, without the need to remove the front cam cover

(13) Re-fit everything else in the reverse order of removal, I use a little thread lock on the screws that hold the base of the air box to the carbs.

Once you have finished re-fitted the CCT's, before putting it all back together turn over the engine 3 or 4 complete turns using the socket and tee bar (anti-clockwise) just to make sure everything is turning freely before you start the engine!


The problem i have is that i missed out a bit from the above and assumed that when the tension was off the rear valves they would be off the front too, so i removed the front CCT as well as the rear i noticed the front chain was tight and wasnt slack like the rear, then i read on and noticed i was suppoed to only do the front after fitting the rear and then rotateing the crank 450 degrees.

at this point i was realy pissed off withh my self.

so then i thaught well noting has moved and the crank hasent been moved so in therey the chain should not have moved too,
so i then refitted the CCT to the front.

so im now waiting for the CCT's in the post. and can hopefully continue with out the timing being out on the front.

will the timimng be okay? as i think all i have done is de-tenshiond the front cam then put tenshion back onto it, its not been rotated or moved so im thinking the timing shouldnt be out now, should it?

So far ive changed the Plugs, Cleaned the carbs out, Cleaned the filter it was well clogged with flies and gunk, changed the oil filter, tho ive no oil yet to put back in , and removed the Rear CCT

L8RGYZ

I've only done this once & I pretty much stumbled thru the process. Mine jumped timing simply from removing the cct while the valve(s) were open. Others more experienced will weigh in, I'm sure, but I think if a valve is open when you remove the cct, meaning its spring is compressed, that it may/will(?) jump timing when the spring de-compresses.

I would not try to start it unless you are sure the timing is right. I tried to turn the crank by hand and realized things would not move very far. That's when I realized the timing was off. I believe you would be ok if you can turn the crank by hand at least 2 full revolutions.

My feeling (as a mechanical novice) is that you should always spin the crank by hand when replacing the ccts before actually starting the bike. This could eliminate a lot of heartache. Once you hit that starter button, if the timing is off, I think the valves get bent.

Little_Horse

if you didn't hear the chain slip on the cam gear teeth you are probably alright. Even if it did it would just run funny, it shouldn't blow up valves because it will only be off a tooth or two if it did slip.

lazn

Turn the engine over by hand a few rotations before trying to start it!! that way you can feel if there will be problems rather than smash your valves.

You may find that you need to completely re-time the front.

trinc

at this point i'd pull the valve covers and verify the cam positions. another hours work will give you piece of mind. at that point you can check the chain tension between the cams. don't feel bad... a lot of people have done the same thing.

tim

seb421

removing the front cam cover will be a right pain i think?

the back one is easy obuviously but i was hoping to not have to remove the front

off top of your head what needs removing to take it off?

lazn

well whatever it involves it is much easier than a rebuild with new valves

seb421

yeh i guess it would be, bt ive not got a clue how to re set the timing on the front any one help? sorry if i sound thick as ****.

seb421

i have the back one alligned up spot on but i dont know about the front at all what it should look like etc with the marking or what they should be at.

RK1

Been a while since I did it- don't remember all the details but- once you've removed the rear cam/valve cover and determined it is at the proper TDC, there is no need to screw with the air box, front valve cover etc. to know the front cylinder is at proper TDC.

trinc

download the service manual.

there is a mark on the left case cover ( under the screw ) and there are marks on the cam gears that you line up with the plane of the head.

it is a VERY easy to check. loosen the oil cooler and you can work the cover out the front. the adjustment is a bit of a trick because you have to loosen the cam chain, move cam then tighten the chain again... which will probably cause the cam(s) to move. so just keep at it and note how many teeth it seems off after tightening it up.

with manual CCT's is easy to tighten & loosen the chain, if you have the auto ( stock ) ones you'll need to make a key to back out the adjuster.

note: you can go from the top side but thats a boat load of work. removing the airbox, carbs, & shield...

tim

lazn

That is if you do the rotation of the engine.. he forgot that step and just removed the CCT.. So umm front would have definitely not been at TDC when he did that.

As far as how hard it is to remove the front cam cover, I don't know as I have only ever removed the rear one.

HondaJim

Just remove the oil cooler bolts as mentioned before and you can pull the front valve cover. When the flywheel mark is on FT and the front cylinder is at TDC the cam sprocket marks FI and FE should line up even with the head.

My rear cylinder jumped one tooth because of a tensioner going out. Even with the tensioner fully removed from the engine I could not get the cam sprocket to turn. I ended up removing the sprocket and reinstalling in the correct position to get it retimed.

Myself, I'd pull that front valve cover to have the piece of mind it's correct.

trinc

he's new to this... to clarify.

you unbolted the cam which the sprocket is attached. you rotate them in 1 piece.

tim

bikerpiker

Hi mate ,

I followed the above procedure on the uk firestorm forum ,i'm no expert ,but thankfully it all went ok

I also done the cct modification which keeps the tensioner spring operated at the same time
http://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewto...=3179&start=90

HondaJim

Nope, I unbolted the cam sprocket from the cam, rotated the sprocket to the correct time, lined the cam up with it, and rebolted the cam sprocket. No need to remove the cam.

Jim TT