Hey everyone. I recently finished up my naked bike conversion, I haven't updated the build thread in a bit but it's done. When I started it up I had filled the engine oil till it was over the sight glass by a little bit to try and account for the zx7 oil cooler.
After the engine had run for about a minute I heard a sound kinda like a light knock or a loud tick that matched the engine rpm and increased in speed and volume when I gave it some throttle.
I shut off the bike and checked things over. There were no leaks or anything but the oil level was down and didn't come back into the sight glass till I put almost a litre of oil in.
I might be being paranoid but I just rebuilt the motor 3000km ago with new auto ccts and I would hate to have spun the bottom end bearings or skipped a tooth on the timing or something.
Has anyone got any insight or experience that might help?

 

How does the new unit's volume compare to the old? Adjustments would be made up or down as needed.

 

I don't really have a means of measurement and google is not cooperating but it's an eight row cooler and i would say it holds a little less than a litre of oil. I added about 3/4 of a litre and let the bike sit over night. Now the oil level is halfway between the sightglass lines

 

I can tell you I have been running the zx7 cooler for 10 yrs with no problem. The sump holds plenty of oil and I really dont think the cooler can hold even half a qt. Lots of bikes/quads use that size cooler with similar capacities.

 

Thanks smokinjoe I realise I probably panicked for no reason, but I guess it's better to be safe than sorry when it comes to engine knock. One of the mechanics at work suggested that I check the oil for bits of bearing and if it's ok then to turn the motor over with the starter and the plugs out to make sure everything is lubed before trying to start it again

 

Thats not to say you don't have reason for concern, just not about the oil cooler.

 

I ran the bike again today. No pieces of anything in the oil and it turned over smooth by hand. No slop or weird noises from the bearings so I turned it over a bit with the ignition off then started it. it ran for a minute and died. I'm pretty sure there's water in the fuel from being stored with a mostly empty tank for 6 months. While it was running though I got a better listen to the noise and it sounds like valves not bearings. So that's a bit of a relief.

 

So now you drain the bowls and tank? Have you changed the oil?

If its been just sitting the top end could be dry. Let it warm up, a little valve noise is not an issue cold.

 

Ya like I said before I probably justy panicked a little. Thanks for the moral support though. I was losing it for a little while there lol. I did i change the oil when I was screening it and right before I started it up the first time after installing the cooler. The water in the fuel happened to me once before and I diluted it with new gas then it ran like a top. So I'm hoping for that again

 

Hey Quill, post some pics of the mounted oil cooler.

 

Hey here are the pics of my mounted oil cooler. my memory failed me before its a 7 row cooler not an 8 row but that's not really critical info anyway. the mounting bracket was one of the side radiator mounts that i modified to work.



that looks like a leak that the camera flash revealed. there were no drips or anything but i haven't had it running very long yet.



i noticed today as i was messing around with the bike that if i put it in gear and hold the clutch i can't push it. Like the clutch isn't disengaging. could this be causing it not to start when it's in neutral?

 

Does it not even turn over when in gear clutch in? That would be the clutch switch on the perch if I am not mistaken. (bike doesnt want to turn over in gear and launch you)

Thats a nice mount spot, I was hell bent on avoiding the hot exhaust but in reality thats the better spot. I have mine way up by the steering head like a conventional rad but honda left no room up there.

 

It turns over but it won't fire more than a couple times in a row. It's probably water and I'm going to have to stop being lazy and drain the carbs and at least a little of the tank. I was just thinking that the added resistance from the clutch would stop it from being able to start. I have another build thread called "another naked firestorm" that has some more pics. I did the front radiator conversion so there wasn't room in the stock location for the oil cooler.

 

One good thing on the VTR that my 09+ years newer GL1800 does not allow me to do which sucks.


On the VTR after a oil and filter change you can turn the bikes key to the on setting and the thumb kill switch in the off position.


Then turn the motor over using the bikes starter until the Red oil light on the speedo cluster goes off, now you have a fully pressurized and lubed motor ready to fire up!


This work well when messing with drained oil lines and oil coolers because you will know when that red oil light goes out you know the lines and the larger cooler have been filled and under pressure ready to go.


If the Red oil light does not go off recheck your oil level in the motor and add oil till it reaches the middle line on the inspection glass and try again.


SIRR1

 

Thats a great tip. Cheers

 

Helps to fill the filter before installing it, you won't hardly lose any oil if you hit the mark and spin it on

 

NZ, you get the tip of the day award. Never attempted that. Like all good ideas it seems simple and obvious after you hear it.

 

Not to quibble, but that is SIRR1's tip. NZ just commented on it.

Good tip SIRR1!

 

Unreal, what is NZ doing taking credit? WTH? Whats next, he is gonna start selling it to other members. Geesh!