shadow623_

Man i have been having a week from hell, my superhawk has been running great since i got it back from the shop until i would say about 2 weeks ago. it is now overheating which right now im not so worried about because today IT WONT START!!!!! i have no idea why i have been riding it fine for the last couple weeks its fresh off a motor swap as the other one blew. so i had a well reputed shop swap the motors for me quite expensive and i have no more money to give them to keep fixing it -_- the bike will turn and turn and turn but wont start after like the third or fourth turn it back fires. i ended up draining my battery today trying to get it started. one thing that has been weird is it will take like 6 or 7 cranks with or without choke on to start it when its cold. it never did that before the shop swapped the motor. i was reading about a PVLIR tube on the bottom of the petcock or in that general area that could be unplugged. but i am baffled i drive it almost everyday since i got it back and boom today all the sudden it doesnt start. yesterday i started it and it was bogging at like 700/800 rpms i gave it a touch of throttle opened the choke a little more then it was fine. and it starts fine once its warm or only sat for a few hours but an overnight sit. its cranking wont start and backfires. HELP FRIENDS

CruxGNZ

What R/R (Regulator/Rectifier) does the bike have? If you still have the stock one, this very well could be causing the issues.

Lets get it running again, then we can figure out your overheating problem.

shadow623_

its the stock R/R i think.. im not 100% sure does that just go bad overnight? the funny thing is before the motor swap i never had any issues with the bike. i lost compression in the front cylinder so i just swapped motor instead of rebuild. besides the fact the people i talked to who did the motor swap was microbore in n.syracuse not that it matters but he told me there could be water in the gas drained some fuel no water. how does one tell if the R/R is bad without replacing it? i wont be home till later so i cant say for sure if its the stock one but im about 90% positive because the previous owner a 9 year owner who said it was bone stock when i bought it. so id say 95% i have the "****" R/R

shadow623_

also wont start with a jump either.

CruxGNZ

You got some reading to do my friend. Here is a link to our Knowledge Base about the R/R Click here.

When you get to your bike, check to see what R/R you have. If it's stock or even a later model stock R/R (the one with cooling fins), you will want to test it to see if it has failed. The link I provided above will have all the information you need.

shadow623_

i have read online the R/R will cook and once that cooks the battery cells will get shot. someone who had a similar issue was told to replace R/R and battery and it was fixed. i might give that a shot im charging the battery overnight and gonna see if it starts tomorrow. im very new to the bike world. this is actually my first bike i love it to pieces but it sure can **** me off

smokinjoe73

Check that there is gas in the tank, check the fuses, basic stuff. Are you using the choke?

Does it not fire at all? Have you checked spark? The RR regulates voltage bleed off so may kill the battery, but doesnt sound like this.

Be careful jumping with a car battery since that can fry stuff and cause more problems.

Have you spoken to the shop that installed it?

Check battery connections. There is a lot of dumb stuff they could've not tightened. If it died 2 weeks after a motor swap, then that was one bad swap. Swapped mine a couple years ago and have had no issues.

Talk to the shop and nicely ask them to make it right.

shadow623_

any recommendations on which R/R to buy as well? i want to make sure im getting a quality one so i dont have to go through this again.

shadow623_

i was using a battery charger to jump it and it will very slightly fire then shut off. since i got it back it will fire then stall fire a little longer stall. then finally fire for 5 seconds i tap the throttle and its good to go. i know irridium plugs which is what our bike takes dont typically go bad considering their graded for 100k +, i talked to the shop he said water in the gas besides that i had to bring it back to him which is 30 mins away and the closest person with a truck or trailer is 50 miles from me. i already brought it back for overheating @smokingjoe you were on that other forum had to pay for a new rad cap after i paid 1800$ for the full motor swap new fluids and plugs. it has ran fine minus the last like 4 or 5 days just starting i just did a chain swap on saturday to a new x ring chain from DID and as stated everything rides fine once its started but starting it after sitting overnight is like pulling teeth its the worst right now.

shadow623_

so from what i read highly recommended to get a MOSFET which are not a direct fit so i need some splicing and it wont fit as snug as the OEM one if i understand properly. thats a good write up i might run that route just sick of dumping money into the VTR

shadow623_

just bought a new R/R its off a YZF-R1 2005.

NZSpokes

Ok, check basics first.

Check fuel delivery, pull a fuel line of a carb and get a bit of hose onto the the vacum port of the petcok valve. When you suck on the vacuum line fuel should gush out the fuel line.

Get a long screw driver and look between the motor V from the RH side. There are little screws in each carb float bowl. Undo them a little and fuel should flow out. Not lots but 1/4 cup.

Borrow a stroboscope/timing light for a car. Get a car close to the bike and put the power leads on the car and the plug sensor on one of your leads. This will show if you have spark. Or just get a spare plug, pull a lead, rest it against the motor and crank the motor. Again should show a spark.

shadow623_

Little above my technical abilitirs lol im new to motorcycles. It looks like a stock r/r says SH 6XXX2 its gray has fins like others ive seen online and looks a litle covered in something yellow almost looks like melted plastic or something gunky not sure how to describe till I rip it apart tomorrow. Fuel is coming from the petcock with and without choke on check that earlier ill have to check float bowls and im gonna call the place tomorrow to make aure they synced carbs and cleaned them. Thanks for the help ill keep you posted

Kurt999

There shouldn't be anything melted over the reg rec so this is suspect. Don't get anything that came out of it on your fingers if it's like a paste-I read years ago that some sealed automotive components have nasty stuff in them. If it's the plastic plug that has melted then I reckon you have found your fault. Unplug the reg rec, fully charge the battery and start the bike. It should run but beware you will not be charging the battery so don't go for a long ride.

Don't forget that your plugs may now be fouled- you can clean them with carb cleaner and gently with an old toothbrush. And spin the motor over in 5 second bursts for a minute or so with the plugs out, choke off, throttle closed, and the vac line disconnected or pinched off from the fuel tap and having drained the carbs with the screws in the side of the float bowls. This will purge any excess fuel from the cylinders. T.hen plugs in and fire her up

Report back when you've done

bzera

R/r problem definately. Make sure you cut away all your burnt/melted wires when you put in new r/r. Probably going to hAve to directly wire it or get a new plug to wire from place called eastern beaver?

shadow623_

well i charged the battery overnight fully and still wouldnt even come close to starting with choke on.

shadow623_

backfiring isnt as loud but deff not starting.

shadow623_

and just so everyone knows i paid 1800$ for him to do a motor swap nothing else thats unreal. i thought he wouldve done carbs and stuff but he didnt. im going to take my carbs off clean them replace my R/R and battery over the course of the next week. ill keep you guys posted

jerryh

Why not fix RR and battery then see?

shadow623_

Alright so I have the whole top half of thw bike off I have full access to carbs. Where should I start?

shadow623_

I am just doing what I can while I wait for it. Should be here froday

shadow623_

Is there supposed to be a metal/aluminum piece behind my r/r between the r/r and the frame? Also is a fan that was glued to it that's what that yellow adhesive is. It looks like a shitty ebay r/r part # SH693-12

shadow623_

No melted wires either on the r/r

shadow623_

Gas leaked out of float bowls carbs look pretty clean from what I can see

CruxGNZ

Do you have a multimeter you can use?

shadow623_

not on me i have a buddy thats good with bikes. im meeting up with him friday at his place and were gonna try and figure this thang out. thanks for the support guys but i cant do it by myself lol

shadow623_

one more thing. as far as gunky substance goes in my float bowls is that a possible issue caused to not starting?

CruxGNZ

So, is there crap in the carbs or no? If so, that can cause issues as well. If the bike's carbs havn't been touched since new, a good cleaning is in order.

If you're wondering, you needed the new R/R MOSFET unit anyways

Do you and your buddy know how to test the R/R currently on the bike?

shadow623_

No I bought a new r/r and tore my.bike down yesterday. I found a random vaccuum line I think near the gas tank that has nowhere to be plugged in

bzera

Make sure you find the right spot for all of the vaccum lines. Your bike won't run right without then properly connected.

Gunk is not good in bowls. Definately clean out your carbs. Jets n all.