best torque wrench?
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From: Wekiva Springs (Orlando) FL

best torque wrench?
Ok all you DIY'ers. I'm hoping for a torque wrench for christmas, which is something I've done without all these years. If not, I'll buy myself one at the after-christmas sales. Now that the bike collection is growing, I'm committed to doing as much as I can of the work myself. So the question is, which torque range is going to be most useful. In addition to the Super Hawk, my other bikes are the GL1800 and a Triumph Bonneville. I noticed Sears sells the Craftsman in 3 different ranges, Ithink 10-75, 20-125 and I forget what the other was.
Any other advise on torque wrenches would be much appreciated as well.
Thanks!!
Any other advise on torque wrenches would be much appreciated as well.
Thanks!!
I have a Husky 1/2" adjustable type and am very happy with it... When I was looking for one years ago the Craftsman didn't seem as well made imho and was not warranted forever like their other tools.
Being the tool hoard I am, I have 3 torque wrenches.... a Craftsman 3/8" drive (was my first wrench.. is about 10 years old) a Snap On (1/2" drive for big stuff), and a KS micro torque wrench (For all the inch pound valve stuff).
They all work very well, although you can tell the Craftsman is the cheapest of the bunch, things like the lock is a little sloppy since it's been used alot and the fact it doesn't "click" into each setting... but I still use it a ton, and for the money (easily half the price of the others) it's not a bad first buy.
My big suggestion is to look through the owners manual for a few minutes and record the range of torque setting required for the tasks you can see yourself doing... wheel changes, fork stuff, sprocket torques, etc.... write it all down and make sure whichever wrench you buy covers the majority of what you'll need.
I'd also suggest you look at what sockets you have, and get a head (3/8" or 1/2") drive to work with your other tools.
J.
They all work very well, although you can tell the Craftsman is the cheapest of the bunch, things like the lock is a little sloppy since it's been used alot and the fact it doesn't "click" into each setting... but I still use it a ton, and for the money (easily half the price of the others) it's not a bad first buy.
My big suggestion is to look through the owners manual for a few minutes and record the range of torque setting required for the tasks you can see yourself doing... wheel changes, fork stuff, sprocket torques, etc.... write it all down and make sure whichever wrench you buy covers the majority of what you'll need.
I'd also suggest you look at what sockets you have, and get a head (3/8" or 1/2") drive to work with your other tools.
J.
Get the lower range one. Most of the SH torques are around 20-40...some even less. If you've been wrenching for years you already have a feel for "tight". anything that needs 75 ftlbs you put some muscle into...anything less ...well.....less. Buy the good one.
Agree with Redman.... for the Hawk general stuff seems to be in the 10 - 40 ft/lb range.... although sprockets and rear axle I believe are in the 60-80 range... but check the manual before quoting me there.
J.
J.
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From: Wekiva Springs (Orlando) FL

Cool, thanks. I keep meaning to check the manual, but really for it to be worthwhile I'd have to check all the manuals, so I thought I'd just go with some general guidelines. Looks like I'll be doing the smaller range one. I'd also like to get one of the torque screwdrivers for the inch-pound stuff. Anyone like these? I've seen 'em advertized for gunsmiths, which I could use it for also.
Anyhow, thanks again. Now hopefully the wife took the hint and got me one!!!
Anyhow, thanks again. Now hopefully the wife took the hint and got me one!!!
Craftsman is ok, but the build quality isn't very high. The lock tends to wear out, and the calibration does not remain accurate unless you have a habit of 'relaxing' the wrench by backing the handle out to the lowest setting. My father has one that came apart; our machinist friend reassembled it and had the tool to calibrate it. Error was around +/- 1 lb, which is not too bad. For inch-lbs, I found a brand new CDI (Snap-on bought them) for around $40 on eBay. If you have an obscene amount of money to spend, then invest in the dial-type wrench. I don't believe that I need anything that precise, so I never bought any of those.
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From: Wekiva Springs (Orlando) FL

So the one I got was 20-150 lb-ft. I'm gonna take it back tomorrow and exchange it. So from what everyone is saying, should I go with the 10-100? Seems like a good compromise, and later I can get a inch-lb screwdriver for the small stuff. What about the steering head? Anyone know what that requires offhand?
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