APE CCT broke
07-03-2010, 10:45 AM
#1
Senior Member
Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
APE CCT broke
I just installed APE CCTs on my bike. I was trying to adjust the tension after I put the bike back together, and the top hex head (not the locking nut) on the bolt came loose from the bolt. It looks like it is held in place by a pin that is pushed into the side of the hex head, but that pin is now sticking out of the hex head, and the head spins freely and doesn't spin the bolt anymore.
Does anyone know a way to fix this? I can think of three possible solutions, but not sure which one, if any, will work.
1. JB Weld the hex head to the bolt. Not sure if this will hold strong enough for me to torque on it.
2. Red Lock-tite. Again, not sure it will hold strong enough, and is it any stronger than JB Weld?
3. Fix the pin on the hex head somehow so that it holds on to the bolt again. Not sure how to do this though.
Any suggestions? Is there anything stronger than JB Weld? Has this happened to anyone else? I'll call APE if I have to, but I'd rather fix what's already on the bike instead of disassemble and reinstall CCTs again.
P.S.: I don't have access to a welder.
Does anyone know a way to fix this? I can think of three possible solutions, but not sure which one, if any, will work.
1. JB Weld the hex head to the bolt. Not sure if this will hold strong enough for me to torque on it.
2. Red Lock-tite. Again, not sure it will hold strong enough, and is it any stronger than JB Weld?
3. Fix the pin on the hex head somehow so that it holds on to the bolt again. Not sure how to do this though.
Any suggestions? Is there anything stronger than JB Weld? Has this happened to anyone else? I'll call APE if I have to, but I'd rather fix what's already on the bike instead of disassemble and reinstall CCTs again.
P.S.: I don't have access to a welder.
07-03-2010, 11:11 AM
#2
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Essex, UK
Posts: 1,707
Off the top of my head - sold as seen - put another nut underneath the 'broken' nut so you can lock them together. use the top one to tighten the tensioner and the new one underneath to slacken
07-03-2010, 01:03 PM
#3
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
If it were mine or a bike I was working on...
The CCT would come off.. I would remove the roll pin, and insert another... if you can not do that... toss the thing in a bag and send it back to APE for a replacment.
Where are you located at? Perhaps someone close can assist.
The CCT would come off.. I would remove the roll pin, and insert another... if you can not do that... toss the thing in a bag and send it back to APE for a replacment.
Where are you located at? Perhaps someone close can assist.
07-03-2010, 05:53 PM
#4
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NY State
Posts: 667
you can buy those pins at a hardware store, I think they are called torsion pins. Bring the APE with you for fit. You could also weld the nut on if you have a welder. I do not think that your 3 solutions will be strong enough.
You could also do the 2-nut thing on the end of the shaft - that is 2 nuts tightened against each other with red locktite. Since it is just an adjuster nut, you could get away with it as a plan-b approach.
You could also do the 2-nut thing on the end of the shaft - that is 2 nuts tightened against each other with red locktite. Since it is just an adjuster nut, you could get away with it as a plan-b approach.
07-03-2010, 07:06 PM
#5
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: May 2008
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 3,451
JB Weld, if left to cure long enough (at least 24 hours) is strong as hell.
If the roll pin isn't broken, you should be able to line it up with the hole in the stud and drive it back in. I would remove the CCT from the engine before trying this though.
If the roll pin isn't broken, you should be able to line it up with the hole in the stud and drive it back in. I would remove the CCT from the engine before trying this though.
Last edited by VTRsurfer; 07-03-2010 at 07:26 PM.
07-05-2010, 09:49 AM
#6
Senior Member
Superstock
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 320
I tried the 2-nut thing (insert jokes below). It worked well enough for me to do the adjustment, so thanks for the advise. I wouldn't have thought of that.
Also, just FYI, the JB Weld wasn't strong enough in this case. I guess it was too thin an application to give it any strength, even after 48 hours and some moderate heat (idling the bike until the bolt was heating up).
Also, just FYI, the JB Weld wasn't strong enough in this case. I guess it was too thin an application to give it any strength, even after 48 hours and some moderate heat (idling the bike until the bolt was heating up).
07-05-2010, 11:34 AM
#7
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Cochrane, AB
Posts: 154
I tried the 2-nut thing (insert jokes below). It worked well enough for me to do the adjustment, so thanks for the advise. I wouldn't have thought of that.
Also, just FYI, the JB Weld wasn't strong enough in this case. I guess it was too thin an application to give it any strength, even after 48 hours and some moderate heat (idling the bike until the bolt was heating up).
Also, just FYI, the JB Weld wasn't strong enough in this case. I guess it was too thin an application to give it any strength, even after 48 hours and some moderate heat (idling the bike until the bolt was heating up).
If the two nut thing worked I would just set it and forget it. For how often you have to adjust them I don't think it would be to big of a deal.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Crashrat
Classifieds
40
10-11-2012 08:25 PM
