05 random stalling at idle
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2
05 random stalling at idle
I am new to owning a superhawk. I have a 2005 with barely over 5500 miles on it. I have put about 500 miles on it so far and it runs great except for the occasional stall at idle.
This only occurs after riding the bike for 10 plus minutes and only when I come to a stop. It idles at 1050 to 1100 rpms. It starts immediately after the stall and the battery seems strong, never slowing a sliver while cranking. I have stopped and cracked the gas tank with an extra key thinking it might be a ventilation problem, but it didn't seem to make any difference.
It had 2-bros pipes on it, so I thought they might be the problem and swapped out the factory pipes. Still have the problem, and am wondering what it could be. Never had this problem with an FI bike.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
This only occurs after riding the bike for 10 plus minutes and only when I come to a stop. It idles at 1050 to 1100 rpms. It starts immediately after the stall and the battery seems strong, never slowing a sliver while cranking. I have stopped and cracked the gas tank with an extra key thinking it might be a ventilation problem, but it didn't seem to make any difference.
It had 2-bros pipes on it, so I thought they might be the problem and swapped out the factory pipes. Still have the problem, and am wondering what it could be. Never had this problem with an FI bike.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
2nd mouse gets the cheese
SuperBike
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,697
From: Beaverton, OR
+1 the hawk has a tendency towards stalling when coming to a stop. Some people found it happened less as the bike increased in miles. Otherwise bumping up the idle speed would be the easiest remedy. Or you could mess with idle mix but thats a fair amount more involved. Every now and then mine still does it but its not very often so I don't care about it.
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 371
From: No longer in 'The Suck'!!!
Ah, the famous Superhawk "Clunk-die" issue. Idle bump (as stated previously), or just deal with it. I have found it does it within the first 2-3 minutes of closing the choke after it warms up, and then is generally fine. Might just be my particular tuning's quirk. Anybody else notice their bike doing this more under a given set of conditions?
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 6
From: CO and CA
S-Hawk stalls waiting at red light
Rode the Hawk today - Chula Vista to Potrero. After 40 miles, sitting at stoplight, ka-chunk, dies. Starts again fine. 10 seconds later, ka-chunk, dies. Then runs fine for two weeks. Tech friend said to re-jet and get a K&N. Probably will set idle up tomorrow. Still, a very small fault on such a great motorcycle. Probably the only fault! BTW - I run the Conti Pilot Road 2's at factory settings (36f, 42r) - rock solid street tires. $269.95/pr at Welcome to Southwest Moto Tires.
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 3,871
From: Phoenix, AZ
Do not start by re-jetting and K&N...
Was your tank pretty full when this happened?
Possibly look up in search PVLIR.
Your carbs, specifically idle jets, may just need cleaning (there's a slight chance you could fix this by running seafoam through a tank of gas).
You may just find that your idle is too low tomorrow... spec says 1200rpm
Do you know what your idle mixture screws are at?
These are just cheapo tests before you go ordering jet kits and such...
Was your tank pretty full when this happened?
Possibly look up in search PVLIR.
Your carbs, specifically idle jets, may just need cleaning (there's a slight chance you could fix this by running seafoam through a tank of gas).
You may just find that your idle is too low tomorrow... spec says 1200rpm
Do you know what your idle mixture screws are at?
These are just cheapo tests before you go ordering jet kits and such...
Administrator
World Champion
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 105,287
From: Fulton, MO
The "clunk-die" is not caused by PVLIR. With PVLIR you drop one cylinder, then the other. Then either the bike will start after some period of time or it won't. Clunk-die comes from a lean condition at idle, corrected by adjusting the mixture screws to somewhere around 2 turns out. The correct setting is dependent on your modifications. Clunk-die also stems from poor synchronization between the carbs. Finally, there is the third stall after hard braking. This is caused by fuel in the front bowl sloshing into the vent line. The smell of gas usually follows and the bike is usually started fine immediately afterwards. The cure is on my website and consists of rerouting the vent lines.
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,109
From: Skurup, Sweden
The "clunk-die" is not caused by PVLIR. With PVLIR you drop one cylinder, then the other. Then either the bike will start after some period of time or it won't. Clunk-die comes from a lean condition at idle, corrected by adjusting the mixture screws to somewhere around 2 turns out. The correct setting is dependent on your modifications. Clunk-die also stems from poor synchronization between the carbs. Finally, there is the third stall after hard braking. This is caused by fuel in the front bowl sloshing into the vent line. The smell of gas usually follows and the bike is usually started fine immediately afterwards. The cure is on my website and consists of rerouting the vent lines.
I'd start with syncing the carbs and doing idle drop to set up your carbs correct at the current configuration... Unless you specifically suspect clogged carbs from the bike sitting...
Also, a sidenote to re-routing those vent lines... A good tip is to cut the end of the line at an angle... That prevents surface tension from holding a drop or two in the end of the line, blocking air...
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
thedeatons
Technical Discussion
14
Jun 21, 2015 09:11 PM
calitoz
General Discussion
7
May 6, 2007 08:28 PM
DaxMiddler
Technical Discussion
8
Apr 28, 2006 03:22 AM
