track n street
#1
track n street
im new to street bikes. i raced motocross. and am comfortable on the street. i want to build a track and road bike. i cant drag a knee but i can get rubber ***** on my edges of my tire , just hard to find some good twistys in florida. i would like to know some good upgrades for the track. i know my bike dives heavy when i brake and seems soft in the front forks when in a hevy corner. im 185 lbs. so i thought about adding a little more fork oil for now then do a swap. how are stiffer springs in the regular forks with valving. maybe some valving in the rear shock too. its just not as stiff as i would like.i just got some bt003 tires only rode them once till some lady broke my arm with her door. also how about motor work? or am i doing it all to fast money is kinda tight. i would like 11.5 pistons a stg 1 cam and head work. can i still run on pump gas? i have kerker ext and a k&n i know its still slow lol. i really just want it to be responsive on the track cornering now.. my motor build can wait.
sugestions???
sugestions???
#5
unless you are going to race, or get very competitive at the track, your stock bike will allow you to have plenty of fun. I ran Michelin PP 2CTs at the track last year on mine. I set the front up as best it could be by a suspension tuner at the track, and the rear was able to be dialed in reasonably well.
When I bought my SH, it already had jetting and exhaust upgrades done, but it really isn't necessary to have fun at the track. If you are going to get serious, have the front suspension rebuilt (about $800 to be done professionally), and replace the rear shock with something more adjustable. Also put on manual CCTs, and do the intake/jet/exhaust changes. that's about as far as you can take the SH. Beyond that, go with a GSXR750.
When I bought my SH, it already had jetting and exhaust upgrades done, but it really isn't necessary to have fun at the track. If you are going to get serious, have the front suspension rebuilt (about $800 to be done professionally), and replace the rear shock with something more adjustable. Also put on manual CCTs, and do the intake/jet/exhaust changes. that's about as far as you can take the SH. Beyond that, go with a GSXR750.
#6
thanks for the advice
i like to wrench tho lol i might have to do a few things just to try it out.just to see the diffrence.
i like to wrench tho lol i might have to do a few things just to try it out.just to see the diffrence.
Last edited by 4bangeranger; 02-09-2010 at 03:27 PM. Reason: im an idoit
#9
buy a couple more sets of tires then head to Jennings! good form will result in knee dragging. trying to drag a knee with result in bad form, which will lead to crashes.
id say get out to the track first, and get good instruction. once your proficient on the track, then figure out what you want to do to the bike.
do you have your suspension set up right(preload/dampening)?
id say get out to the track first, and get good instruction. once your proficient on the track, then figure out what you want to do to the bike.
do you have your suspension set up right(preload/dampening)?
Last edited by jay956; 02-09-2010 at 09:00 PM.
#11
Do the important stuff first. Get your suspension re-sprung and re-valved, as mentioned above. Then fit CBR brakes to the forks.
These mods are morte important than engine mods in my opinion.
These mods are morte important than engine mods in my opinion.
#12
+1 on waiting for engine mods... & that will only come if you truely love the bike. if your looking for a track weapon a gsxr750 would be a great choice.
the hawk in it best form will never be an SS bike but for my local track, which isn't very technical, it's still a blast to ride... even though it's WAY down on power.
tim
the hawk in it best form will never be an SS bike but for my local track, which isn't very technical, it's still a blast to ride... even though it's WAY down on power.
tim
#13
#14
We've discussed this before, but...
A fork brace is not just a benefit for heavy riders. In fact rider weight has little to do with the function of a fork brace. A brace works by forcing the fork legs to remain parallel. When you are turning the bike the front wheel acts as a gyroscope and resists changes in direction. Torque from the handlebars results in a backward force in one fork leg and a forward force in the other leg. By tying them together, you prevent this scissoring action.
It is an improvement to the handling and steering precision of the motorcycle that is immediately apparent, regardless of rider weight. Very little effect on straight roads - tremendous effect in the twisties.
The stock springs are progressive and overly soft in the initial travel range. Using a constant rate spring for your suited rider weight is a big improvement.
Greg has a good setup for VTR forks and is a straight-up, good guy.
JamieDaugherty's modification to the 600 F4i shock for the VTR, with Racetech valving and shim stack looks to be the best bang-for-the-buck for the rear suspension. Several happy customers there, as well. but this has all been said...
Do these things. You will be happy you did.
A fork brace is not just a benefit for heavy riders. In fact rider weight has little to do with the function of a fork brace. A brace works by forcing the fork legs to remain parallel. When you are turning the bike the front wheel acts as a gyroscope and resists changes in direction. Torque from the handlebars results in a backward force in one fork leg and a forward force in the other leg. By tying them together, you prevent this scissoring action.
It is an improvement to the handling and steering precision of the motorcycle that is immediately apparent, regardless of rider weight. Very little effect on straight roads - tremendous effect in the twisties.
The stock springs are progressive and overly soft in the initial travel range. Using a constant rate spring for your suited rider weight is a big improvement.
Greg has a good setup for VTR forks and is a straight-up, good guy.
JamieDaugherty's modification to the 600 F4i shock for the VTR, with Racetech valving and shim stack looks to be the best bang-for-the-buck for the rear suspension. Several happy customers there, as well. but this has all been said...
Do these things. You will be happy you did.
Last edited by RCVTR; 02-10-2010 at 07:00 PM.
#15
thanks guys i just ordered my fork brace. what spings and valves should i go with???? this is what they say.
Recommended Fork Spring Rate for Racing: 0.945 kg/mm (use closest available)
Stock Fork Spring Rate: .585 kg/mm (stock)
Available FRSP S3534 Series Springs are:
with the G2-R valves in the forks
Hi-Frequency Response Race Rebound Gold Valve
a valve in the rear... on the web it dose not match up to my bike.
then a rebound separator valve.. my total will be $885 with a rebuild kit.. for forks.. should i rebuild my rear too. when its all apart??
how dose that sound to u guys.. i have never set up forks like this before lol.. most i have done was change the springs and seals im my yz 250...
Recommended Fork Spring Rate for Racing: 0.945 kg/mm (use closest available)
Stock Fork Spring Rate: .585 kg/mm (stock)
Available FRSP S3534 Series Springs are:
REAR SHOCK SPRING
Recommended Rear Shock Spring Rate for Racing: 17.88 kg/mm (use closest available)
Stock Shock Spring Rate: 16.4 kg/mm (stock)
Available SESP 80225 Series Springs are:
the recomended springs above.Recommended Rear Shock Spring Rate for Racing: 17.88 kg/mm (use closest available)
Stock Shock Spring Rate: 16.4 kg/mm (stock)
Available SESP 80225 Series Springs are:
with the G2-R valves in the forks
Hi-Frequency Response Race Rebound Gold Valve
a valve in the rear... on the web it dose not match up to my bike.
then a rebound separator valve.. my total will be $885 with a rebuild kit.. for forks.. should i rebuild my rear too. when its all apart??
how dose that sound to u guys.. i have never set up forks like this before lol.. most i have done was change the springs and seals im my yz 250...
#16
Sounds out there. What you do is send HawkRider a PM, tell him your weight and your desires for handling.
Pull the forks off your bike. Package them up good, and send them to Greg and let him work his magic, he might have some that at the house already. If I recall correctly, his posted price was less than $400.
Then, you contact Jamie Daugherty, tell him your weight and ask him to provide the F4i shock (if he has one). I think, but can't recall correctly at this moment, that mine ran $480 shipped to me.
$880 dollars later, you have your front and rear supsension for your bike, built by 2 guys who love their Superhawks and provide a service to the rest of us.
I went a different route for the front, a conversion, but plenty others have testified to the quality of Hawkriders work.
Also, there are plenty of testaments to the work of Jamie.
Pull the forks off your bike. Package them up good, and send them to Greg and let him work his magic, he might have some that at the house already. If I recall correctly, his posted price was less than $400.
Then, you contact Jamie Daugherty, tell him your weight and ask him to provide the F4i shock (if he has one). I think, but can't recall correctly at this moment, that mine ran $480 shipped to me.
$880 dollars later, you have your front and rear supsension for your bike, built by 2 guys who love their Superhawks and provide a service to the rest of us.
I went a different route for the front, a conversion, but plenty others have testified to the quality of Hawkriders work.
Also, there are plenty of testaments to the work of Jamie.
#17
probably what i should do.. but i really love building my own stuff i just need some help with what i need. there is just something about building it yourself that i love. but who knows i might just send it out.. would be the right thing to do.
#18
#19
The Ohlins are good. No one disputes that.
But the DMR F4i conversion and revalve is half the $ and those that have it rate it equal to any aftermarket shock out there.
http://daughertymotorsports.com/
He still hasn't put it on his website, but contact him and he can hook you up.
But the DMR F4i conversion and revalve is half the $ and those that have it rate it equal to any aftermarket shock out there.
http://daughertymotorsports.com/
He still hasn't put it on his website, but contact him and he can hook you up.
#20
You can probably find a good shim stack recommendation with the stock valves and your recommended spring rate here:
http://old.racetech.com/evalving/men...chstreetvs.asp
http://old.racetech.com/evalving/men...chstreetvs.asp
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