sprocket combination for track/street
01-13-2007, 11:28 PM
#1
Senior Member
SuperBike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,011
sprocket combination for track/street
looking to change the gearing when I order some parts for the bike soon. I believe marmalade was using +2 rear, I know some others have done -1 front And maybe a few -1/+1... what have people's impressions been for what they're running? I'd imagine -1/+1 is gonna be real wheelie happy
01-14-2007, 04:53 AM
#3
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: MICHIGAN
Posts: 731
I have +2 in the back and I love it. I would say -1 in the front would be ideal to give you a 15/41 gearing which is a tad bit shorter than the +2 in the back and it is cheaper too since you are only changing the small sprocket.
01-14-2007, 12:00 PM
#6
Hmm?
SuperBike
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: San Gabriel Valley
Posts: 2,069
01-14-2007, 12:07 PM
#7
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 1,802
I'm running 15/43 (-1/+2) and I love it aside from the wildly inaccurate speedo and odometer readings. It's the best bang-for-the-buck mod you can make to a Super Hawk in my opinion. Because the Hawk is overgeared stock and has an overdrive 6th gear, I seriously doubt whether top speed is reduced--not that it matters anyway. I would imagine this combination would be best for most racetracks, too.
01-14-2007, 12:31 PM
#8
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Gainesville FLA.
Posts: 3,844
I'm running 15/43 (-1/+2) and I love it aside from the wildly inaccurate speedo and odometer readings. It's the best bang-for-the-buck mod you can make to a Super Hawk in my opinion. Because the Hawk is overgeared stock and has an overdrive 6th gear, I seriously doubt whether top speed is reduced--not that it matters anyway. I would imagine this combination would be best for most racetracks, too.
01-14-2007, 04:48 PM
#9
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Merritt,MI.
Posts: 474
[ Although it was a lot easier to do 2nd gear wheelies with the 15/43.[/QUOTE]
Thats what I'm looking for!!!!!!!!!!!
killer5280 sum of all parts advertised it as correcting your factory speedo settings? this is not correct?
[/QUOTE]Thats what I'm looking for!!!!!!!!!!!
killer5280 sum of all parts advertised it as correcting your factory speedo settings? this is not correct?
01-14-2007, 05:02 PM
#10
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Gainesville FLA.
Posts: 3,844
01-14-2007, 05:03 PM
#11
Senior Member
SuperBike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,011
dropping your gearing lower is gonna make it read even higher. unless your speedo is already reading low it's only gonna make worse. the top speed is definetely gonna be dropped with -1/+2. Just +2 I bet it's about the same
01-14-2007, 05:05 PM
#12
Hmm?
SuperBike
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: San Gabriel Valley
Posts: 2,069
I think they're claiming that because the speedo is supposedly off by a certain percentage, and the change in gearing would move it "off" towards a more correct number. Without crunching the numbers for proof, they're claim is more of a general statement.
01-14-2007, 05:29 PM
#13
Senior Member
SuperBike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,011
that's impossible since speedo's read high and lowering the gearing makes the speedo read higher so it'll be off by a higher percentage. I'm 100% positive about this
01-14-2007, 05:59 PM
#15
Hmm?
SuperBike
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: San Gabriel Valley
Posts: 2,069
Oh right. Sorry...total brain fart on that one. That's what happens when you haven't been riding on a bike with a speedometer for awhile. :P
01-14-2007, 06:04 PM
#16
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Houston,Tx
Posts: 267
I switched to a 16/43 when I was living in town but now that I've moved out further(47 miles one way) I'm gonna switch back to a 16/41 , to get some better fuel mileage. Although 2nd gear wheelies are fun as all get out.
01-14-2007, 06:21 PM
#17
Senior Member
SuperBike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,011
01-15-2007, 06:53 AM
#19
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 428
-1 in the front makes a huge improvement with no ill effects.
-1/+2 makes your bike wheelie like crazy, but you must shift often. In either configuration top speed is not reduced, maybe even increased. If you are drag racing -1 is your best bet because anything lower puts 1st gear too low. My box of stock/spare parts was stolen so I'm stuck with -1/+2, oh well.
-1/+2 makes your bike wheelie like crazy, but you must shift often. In either configuration top speed is not reduced, maybe even increased. If you are drag racing -1 is your best bet because anything lower puts 1st gear too low. My box of stock/spare parts was stolen so I'm stuck with -1/+2, oh well.
01-15-2007, 07:59 PM
#22
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 428
My next change is going to be 15/56. 15/41 is a good combo to launch, you float 1st and second and can shift hard to third. 15/43 puts 1st pretty low and the rev limiter comes pretty fast. If not timed perfectly and the rev limited is hit the bike falls flat on its face. With 15/56 I'm going to start in 2nd and be hammering the red-line in the traps. With a bone stock motor 15/43 gears put my VTR at 11.09. This all depends on what you want.
15/41 will put a grin on your face, 15/43 will scare and sometimes annoy you but if like wheelies is a good start. Its all about what type of riding you do.
15/41 will put a grin on your face, 15/43 will scare and sometimes annoy you but if like wheelies is a good start. Its all about what type of riding you do.
01-15-2007, 08:03 PM
#23
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 428
btw,
-1 in the front is equivalent to +2.7 to +2.9 teeth up in the back (whatever your final drive ratio is rear teeth divided by front teeth)
also, going up in the back is a lot easier on the chain. the only drawback is a heavier chain and if you go up more than two you need a longer chain.
Don't go below 15 in the front because of excessive chain wear and bind.
-1 in the front is equivalent to +2.7 to +2.9 teeth up in the back (whatever your final drive ratio is rear teeth divided by front teeth)
also, going up in the back is a lot easier on the chain. the only drawback is a heavier chain and if you go up more than two you need a longer chain.
Don't go below 15 in the front because of excessive chain wear and bind.
01-16-2007, 12:57 PM
#24
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 158
I love 15/43. (and I tried 15/41) I definitely do not think that it makes the bike "wheelie prone"; I think it makes it just right. You have to actually TRY to wheelie it in 2nd, it doesnt just lift up. (In 1st it will, but it will stock too) And on the highway, it runs around 5k at 80-85, which I also think is perfect, better than stock. Top gear roll-ons are MUCH better.
IMO, 15/43 is the gearing the vtr should have, from the factory; I think they gear it way too high. C'mon, a 1000cc v-twin, light, and torquey?! it should WANT to wheelie all over the place!!
But like Speed_Demon said, if you really like wheelies, its a good place to START; I want to try a 44 or 45 in the back...
01-16-2007, 11:53 PM
#25
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 428
All the local stunters have pizza pie rear sprockets like 60+ teeth. I was talking to one of them and told him lowering the front changes the ratio 3 times faster than the rear and every tooth has more effect than the last. He nodded like it was a great idea. I told him he should run a one tooth front. He actually had to think about it for quite a while before getting a confused look on his face. Twas priceless. Not the sharpest tool in the shed.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Shane702
Technical Discussion
8
04-19-2013 05:02 PM
