Time for Stage I
01-30-2009, 10:39 AM
#61
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01-30-2009, 11:28 AM
#62
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You're gonna hate me for this, but this is where I bought my pistons.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JE-PI...spagenameZWD1V
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JE-PI...spagenameZWD1V
01-30-2009, 11:34 AM
#63
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You're gonna hate me for this, but this is where I bought my pistons.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JE-PI...spagenameZWD1V
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JE-PI...spagenameZWD1V
$240 pistons & pins
$40 skirt coat
$46 thermal crown barrier
$24ish shipping
11.5:1 compression...priceless!
01-30-2009, 06:09 PM
#66
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pulled valves outta heads tonight...look at the caked carbon on the intake valves...wonder what caused that?
Also, is there an easy way to remove the inner & outter spring seats and stem seal from the valve guide?
Also, is there an easy way to remove the inner & outter spring seats and stem seal from the valve guide?
01-31-2009, 03:08 PM
#67
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Got those valve stem seals out...little buggers only needed the right touch
Here's my 1st Int. Port Polish attempt...whattcha think? Bowls haven't been done yet...got called in for dinner
Here's my 1st Int. Port Polish attempt...whattcha think? Bowls haven't been done yet...got called in for dinner
Last edited by FL02SupaHawk996; 01-31-2009 at 06:34 PM. Reason: added
01-31-2009, 04:43 PM
#68
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Looks good so far, what are you doing just removing the casting marks and blending the ports or are you doing something more radical.
I know that you are supposed to leave the intake with a 80 grit rough finish and the exhaust side gets polished.
I know that you are supposed to leave the intake with a 80 grit rough finish and the exhaust side gets polished.
01-31-2009, 06:33 PM
#69
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I will polish the exhaust ports to a near mirror finish after I port them so no carbon can stick to them while exiting the combustion chamber. The combustion chamber will get the same treatment...
Last edited by FL02SupaHawk996; 02-01-2009 at 03:10 PM. Reason: spell
01-31-2009, 09:14 PM
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Looks great, Rick!
You just need to blend the bowl areas in. I'm impressed!
It's much more satisfying to be able to say you did it.
The buildup on the back of the intakes is normal. A product of crappy pump gas and the oil that naturally runs down the valve stems, through the guides. The valves are hot, so the oil and gas residue burns and sticks there.
I have always wondered about the polished exhaust port thing. Sure you want them smooth, but as soon as they get coated with carbon soot, the surface finish doesn't matter.
If you can get some pins made ~.010 smaller than the PAIR ports an insert them through the top of the heads, and bond them in with JB Weld it cleans up the bowl of the exhaust port. Put JB Weld in the holes and on the pins, then wipe off the excess. Make the pins short enough that the dowel that locates the valve cover still fits (~2" long). Put them in before porting and blend them to the bowl.
And BTW, the pitting in the exhaust seats and valve faces is minimal. You won't have to sink the valves much to get good, clean seats.
You just need to blend the bowl areas in. I'm impressed!
It's much more satisfying to be able to say you did it.
The buildup on the back of the intakes is normal. A product of crappy pump gas and the oil that naturally runs down the valve stems, through the guides. The valves are hot, so the oil and gas residue burns and sticks there.
I have always wondered about the polished exhaust port thing. Sure you want them smooth, but as soon as they get coated with carbon soot, the surface finish doesn't matter.
If you can get some pins made ~.010 smaller than the PAIR ports an insert them through the top of the heads, and bond them in with JB Weld it cleans up the bowl of the exhaust port. Put JB Weld in the holes and on the pins, then wipe off the excess. Make the pins short enough that the dowel that locates the valve cover still fits (~2" long). Put them in before porting and blend them to the bowl.
And BTW, the pitting in the exhaust seats and valve faces is minimal. You won't have to sink the valves much to get good, clean seats.
Last edited by RCVTR; 01-31-2009 at 09:18 PM.
02-01-2009, 02:49 PM
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Looks great, Rick!
You just need to blend the bowl areas in. I'm impressed!
It's much more satisfying to be able to say you did it.
The buildup on the back of the intakes is normal. A product of crappy pump gas and the oil that naturally runs down the valve stems, through the guides. The valves are hot, so the oil and gas residue burns and sticks there.
I have always wondered about the polished exhaust port thing. Sure you want them smooth, but as soon as they get coated with carbon soot, the surface finish doesn't matter.
If you can get some pins made ~.010 smaller than the PAIR ports an insert them through the top of the heads, and bond them in with JB Weld it cleans up the bowl of the exhaust port. Put JB Weld in the holes and on the pins, then wipe off the excess. Make the pins short enough that the dowel that locates the valve cover still fits (~2" long). Put them in before porting and blend them to the bowl.
And BTW, the pitting in the exhaust seats and valve faces is minimal. You won't have to sink the valves much to get good, clean seats.
You just need to blend the bowl areas in. I'm impressed!
It's much more satisfying to be able to say you did it.
The buildup on the back of the intakes is normal. A product of crappy pump gas and the oil that naturally runs down the valve stems, through the guides. The valves are hot, so the oil and gas residue burns and sticks there.
I have always wondered about the polished exhaust port thing. Sure you want them smooth, but as soon as they get coated with carbon soot, the surface finish doesn't matter.
If you can get some pins made ~.010 smaller than the PAIR ports an insert them through the top of the heads, and bond them in with JB Weld it cleans up the bowl of the exhaust port. Put JB Weld in the holes and on the pins, then wipe off the excess. Make the pins short enough that the dowel that locates the valve cover still fits (~2" long). Put them in before porting and blend them to the bowl.
And BTW, the pitting in the exhaust seats and valve faces is minimal. You won't have to sink the valves much to get good, clean seats.
The exhaust valves are toast, so will order 4 new ones...cleaned the intake valves with a drill
Last edited by FL02SupaHawk996; 02-01-2009 at 02:50 PM. Reason: correct
02-01-2009, 03:13 PM
#75
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Flywheel
Dang that sucker was on there! Had to resort to Liquid Wrench to brake her loose
Going to the machine shop this week to be lightened & rebalanced (if needed)...note the 3 balancing holes already there.
Going to the machine shop this week to be lightened & rebalanced (if needed)...note the 3 balancing holes already there.
02-01-2009, 03:54 PM
#76
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I plan on turning down some aluminum to plug the pair hole, and blend it so it is as if the hole was never there.
I put my valves in the drill press to spin them to ensure they were straight, and to clean them. It worked very well.
I put my valves in the drill press to spin them to ensure they were straight, and to clean them. It worked very well.
02-01-2009, 05:39 PM
#78
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The performance should be the same weather you plug it in the bowl or otherwise... Altough the bowl might turn out nicer without it and that could possibly affect combustion? Seems unlikely though...
It saves some hassle plugging things on the inside though... just rip off anything pair related...
It saves some hassle plugging things on the inside though... just rip off anything pair related...
02-02-2009, 06:09 AM
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The performance should be the same weather you plug it in the bowl or otherwise... Altough the bowl might turn out nicer without it and that could possibly affect combustion? Seems unlikely though...
It saves some hassle plugging things on the inside though... just rip off anything pair related...
It saves some hassle plugging things on the inside though... just rip off anything pair related...
02-02-2009, 06:10 AM
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02-02-2009, 08:16 AM
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02-02-2009, 08:20 AM
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Rick,
Did you do some polishing on the deck surface? I'm concerned that it may not be flat.
I only sand the deck with 800 grit wrapped over a 1-2-3 block (precision ground machinist tool.
the deck needs to be extremely flat, right to the edge of the combustion chamber. If it's not, get it milled.
The ports and combustion chambers are beautiful!
Did you do some polishing on the deck surface? I'm concerned that it may not be flat.
I only sand the deck with 800 grit wrapped over a 1-2-3 block (precision ground machinist tool.
the deck needs to be extremely flat, right to the edge of the combustion chamber. If it's not, get it milled.
The ports and combustion chambers are beautiful!
02-02-2009, 08:24 AM
#85
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Rick,
Did you do some polishing on the deck surface? I'm concerned that it may not be flat.
I only sand the deck with 800 grit wrapped over a 1-2-3 block (precision ground machinist tool.
the deck needs to be extremely flat, right to the edge of the combustion chamber. If it's not, get it milled.
The ports and combustion chambers are beautiful!
Did you do some polishing on the deck surface? I'm concerned that it may not be flat.
I only sand the deck with 800 grit wrapped over a 1-2-3 block (precision ground machinist tool.
the deck needs to be extremely flat, right to the edge of the combustion chamber. If it's not, get it milled.
The ports and combustion chambers are beautiful!
RC
02-02-2009, 08:36 AM
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RC
02-02-2009, 08:40 AM
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What I am noticing is that there isn't really a problem with shrouding of the valves in the combustion chambers, and there really isn't a whole lot of work to be done. They are really good combustion chambers from that stand point. The cylinders themselves may cause more shrouding than any other component.
02-02-2009, 08:56 AM
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What I am noticing is that there isn't really a problem with shrouding of the valves in the combustion chambers, and there really isn't a whole lot of work to be done. They are really good combustion chambers from that stand point. The cylinders themselves may cause more shrouding than any other component.
