That's what I figured...they have 3 different sets of OEM offered on Ron Ayers; STD, OB 0.0025 & OB 0.0050...I ordered standard rings, but intetested if anybody has bored the jugs and what their results were?
RC

 

You're gonna hate me for this, but this is where I bought my pistons.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JE-PI...spagenameZWD1V

 

Killer, you did good bro! I know cuz that's where I bought mine too

$240 pistons & pins
$40 skirt coat
$46 thermal crown barrier
$24ish shipping
11.5:1 compression...priceless!

 

Scored walls at high revs and temps, we had one stick. Call JE and make sure they work with the stock bore.

 

Will do!

 

pulled valves outta heads tonight...look at the caked carbon on the intake valves...wonder what caused that?

Also, is there an easy way to remove the inner & outter spring seats and stem seal from the valve guide?

 

Got those valve stem seals out...little buggers only needed the right touch

Here's my 1st Int. Port Polish attempt...whattcha think? Bowls haven't been done yet...got called in for dinner

 

Looks good so far, what are you doing just removing the casting marks and blending the ports or are you doing something more radical.
I know that you are supposed to leave the intake with a 80 grit rough finish and the exhaust side gets polished.

 

IMHO 80 grit is all you need cuz anything lower just takes off the alum way too fast. Honda's already done all the hard work engineering the ports, so I'm not changing them much just opening them up so the new pistons can breath...in and out!

I will polish the exhaust ports to a near mirror finish after I port them so no carbon can stick to them while exiting the combustion chamber. The combustion chamber will get the same treatment...

 

Looks great, Rick!
You just need to blend the bowl areas in. I'm impressed!
It's much more satisfying to be able to say you did it.

The buildup on the back of the intakes is normal. A product of crappy pump gas and the oil that naturally runs down the valve stems, through the guides. The valves are hot, so the oil and gas residue burns and sticks there.

I have always wondered about the polished exhaust port thing. Sure you want them smooth, but as soon as they get coated with carbon soot, the surface finish doesn't matter.

If you can get some pins made ~.010 smaller than the PAIR ports an insert them through the top of the heads, and bond them in with JB Weld it cleans up the bowl of the exhaust port. Put JB Weld in the holes and on the pins, then wipe off the excess. Make the pins short enough that the dowel that locates the valve cover still fits (~2" long). Put them in before porting and blend them to the bowl.

And BTW, the pitting in the exhaust seats and valve faces is minimal. You won't have to sink the valves much to get good, clean seats.

 

Thanks Man! I'm thinking that the carbon will have a hard time sticking to the polished surface of the ext ports...we'll see!

The exhaust valves are toast, so will order 4 new ones...cleaned the intake valves with a drill

 

Here's an intake valve before & after cleaning photo

 

here's some before & after bowl shots

 

ext ports & int ports before & after porting

 

Dang that sucker was on there! Had to resort to Liquid Wrench to brake her loose

Going to the machine shop this week to be lightened & rebalanced (if needed)...note the 3 balancing holes already there.

 

I plan on turning down some aluminum to plug the pair hole, and blend it so it is as if the hole was never there.

I put my valves in the drill press to spin them to ensure they were straight, and to clean them. It worked very well.

 

Will it help my performance to plug the PAIR hole in the bowl?

 

The performance should be the same weather you plug it in the bowl or otherwise... Altough the bowl might turn out nicer without it and that could possibly affect combustion? Seems unlikely though...

It saves some hassle plugging things on the inside though... just rip off anything pair related...

 

I see it as the hole causes minimal turbulence when the pair is disconnected.

 

Thanks man!

 

Yep, I agree it's a pretty big hole in the bowl, so it could easily cause some drag on gases flowing out...

Thanks,
RC

 

Apparently plugging the PAIR port makes no difference on the dyno.

 

How about the ole buttdyno
RC

 

Rick,
Did you do some polishing on the deck surface? I'm concerned that it may not be flat.
I only sand the deck with 800 grit wrapped over a 1-2-3 block (precision ground machinist tool.

the deck needs to be extremely flat, right to the edge of the combustion chamber. If it's not, get it milled.

The ports and combustion chambers are beautiful!

 

Thanks, I hit the deck with scotch guard to clean it up a little and will confirm it's flat before bolting the heads back on
RC

 

Scotch brite by hand is okay, but don't use a die grinder with a rotoloc on aluminum. Its too aggressive.

 

Thanks Bill, I found I could do a lot by hand cuz the amul is so soft...eased the short side radius in the bowls by hand and was relatively quick and very productive
RC

 

What I am noticing is that there isn't really a problem with shrouding of the valves in the combustion chambers, and there really isn't a whole lot of work to be done. They are really good combustion chambers from that stand point. The cylinders themselves may cause more shrouding than any other component.

 

Yep, there's a small amt of ext. valve shrouding, but I figured it was minimal so pretty much left it alone cuz I didn't want to inadvertatnly bugger up the seat area

 

hey guys im really new at this internal engine work.

could someone show me an example of a shrouded and unshrouded valve?