Sprockets??
#1
Sprockets??
I am thinking my next mod will be the sprockets, Is the stock sprockets 16 teeth in the front and 41 in the rear? I want to make sure that mine is stock before I change them. Also I was thinking 15 in the front and 43 in the rear? is that about normal or what do you guys have. I still wanting it good for on the road and trips. But want just a little more grunt down low, and this will be a cheap way to do that. thanks!
#2
My suggestion is that you get a 43 tooth rear, leave the front alone, and see how you like it. A 43 tooth rear sprocket gives you about 4.5% more rpm per road speed, but it is a difference you really notice, at least I did. Still leaves you with about 68-69 mph at 4000 rpm and 75 mph without breaking 4500 rpm, after which the motor starts to feel busy/buzzy to me.
Thje 15 front/43 rear might be the best set up for racing, but can leave you a bit buzzy on the freeway and cut down your mpg.
My 16/43 set up just feels right to me. It feels better around town and still gives me 45 mpg on the freeway at 70-75 mph.
Thje 15 front/43 rear might be the best set up for racing, but can leave you a bit buzzy on the freeway and cut down your mpg.
My 16/43 set up just feels right to me. It feels better around town and still gives me 45 mpg on the freeway at 70-75 mph.
#3
I purchased a 15T and a 43T for mine a few months back... Originally installed the 15T, then added the 43T... I rode for about 2 weeks, and in the interest of bringing RPM's back down some to conserve gas when riding to/from work, I put the 16T front back on... So I'm currently running 16/43 combo...
This works very well... I changed them in the first place because I didn't feel like the bike had enough 2nd gear power wheelie power. But then after having the 15/43 on there, it wasn't like the bike just stood up with no effort in second, so I opted to change the front back. That dropped the RPM's some, which helps the gas mileage, but the bike still feels stronger down low than stock gearing....
For the low cost of sprockets, you could go either way.... The reason i chose to leave the back at 43T was because changing the front sprocket literally only takes 3-5min and no stands required. So if for some reason, I'm going to be doing lots of around town light to light showing off or something, I can swap that 15T back in, but since I live in a rural area, lots of long roads, and 10+ miles of straight road into town, the lower rpm's help out.
I say order them both, and find the combo you like. they are CHEAP. I think i spent 40'ish on both from DK
This works very well... I changed them in the first place because I didn't feel like the bike had enough 2nd gear power wheelie power. But then after having the 15/43 on there, it wasn't like the bike just stood up with no effort in second, so I opted to change the front back. That dropped the RPM's some, which helps the gas mileage, but the bike still feels stronger down low than stock gearing....
For the low cost of sprockets, you could go either way.... The reason i chose to leave the back at 43T was because changing the front sprocket literally only takes 3-5min and no stands required. So if for some reason, I'm going to be doing lots of around town light to light showing off or something, I can swap that 15T back in, but since I live in a rural area, lots of long roads, and 10+ miles of straight road into town, the lower rpm's help out.
I say order them both, and find the combo you like. they are CHEAP. I think i spent 40'ish on both from DK
#4
Thanks a ton guys, that helps a lot. I also noticed that one of the tensioner bolts on the rear is all rounded out. So I will need to get another one of those. But ya I think 15 and 43 will be my choice from what I have heard, and if the 15 is too high on rpm's for driving then I can just take it off and replace it back, thanks!!
#5
I still don't understand what is wrong with stock gearing. I've never had a problem with it. After 45k miles I've never found myself in a situation where 1st gear was too high and 2nd too low. Of course I'm in the mindset that I very rarely negotiate a curve that requires first gear, so I just go faster and keep it in 2nd.
Speaking of chains and sprockets, it's time for a new set for me. The rear AFAM looks good but the front is pretty much toast after 20k miles. This is pretty much as expected for a 520 conversion. The RK chain has done pretty well, and although I have a few tight spots I've had to adjust the chain very little since it's initial stretch after I installed it. The Scottoiler continues to do its job very well.
I just ordered a 520 kit with Supersprox Stealth and the DID 520VM chain for $220 from Drive Systems USA (www.drivesystemsusa.com). These sprockets are comparable in quality to AFAM but should last a little longer because the rear teeth are steel. The rear sprocket uses an aluminum carrier and Ti rivets to hold the two together. Should be pretty blingin'....yo!
Speaking of chains and sprockets, it's time for a new set for me. The rear AFAM looks good but the front is pretty much toast after 20k miles. This is pretty much as expected for a 520 conversion. The RK chain has done pretty well, and although I have a few tight spots I've had to adjust the chain very little since it's initial stretch after I installed it. The Scottoiler continues to do its job very well.
I just ordered a 520 kit with Supersprox Stealth and the DID 520VM chain for $220 from Drive Systems USA (www.drivesystemsusa.com). These sprockets are comparable in quality to AFAM but should last a little longer because the rear teeth are steel. The rear sprocket uses an aluminum carrier and Ti rivets to hold the two together. Should be pretty blingin'....yo!
#6
I still don't understand what is wrong with stock gearing. I've never had a problem with it. After 45k miles I've never found myself in a situation where 1st gear was too high and 2nd too low. Of course I'm in the mindset that I very rarely negotiate a curve that requires first gear, so I just go faster and keep it in 2nd.
Speaking of chains and sprockets, it's time for a new set for me. The rear AFAM looks good but the front is pretty much toast after 20k miles. This is pretty much as expected for a 520 conversion. The RK chain has done pretty well, and although I have a few tight spots I've had to adjust the chain very little since it's initial stretch after I installed it. The Scottoiler continues to do its job very well.
I just ordered a 520 kit with Supersprox Stealth and the DID 520VM chain for $220 from Drive Systems USA (www.drivesystemsusa.com). These sprockets are comparable in quality to AFAM but should last a little longer because the rear teeth are steel. The rear sprocket uses an aluminum carrier and Ti rivets to hold the two together. Should be pretty blingin'....yo!
Speaking of chains and sprockets, it's time for a new set for me. The rear AFAM looks good but the front is pretty much toast after 20k miles. This is pretty much as expected for a 520 conversion. The RK chain has done pretty well, and although I have a few tight spots I've had to adjust the chain very little since it's initial stretch after I installed it. The Scottoiler continues to do its job very well.
I just ordered a 520 kit with Supersprox Stealth and the DID 520VM chain for $220 from Drive Systems USA (www.drivesystemsusa.com). These sprockets are comparable in quality to AFAM but should last a little longer because the rear teeth are steel. The rear sprocket uses an aluminum carrier and Ti rivets to hold the two together. Should be pretty blingin'....yo!
Here is one good reason the stock gearing may not work well:
Everyday I ride in stop and roll traffic on the freeway. I constantly have to clutch it to keep from rolling too fast. I would LOVE to be able to just roll in 1st in traffic a little slower. I cry in my helmet everyday thinking about how my fellow riders in CA get to roll right through it.......lucky bastards!
#7
Ah, see I live in an area where there is no traffic. Still, if you idle at 6mph with stock gearing, switching to 15/43 will put you idling at 5.4mph. I really don't think it's going to matter much....IMO.
#8
I will probably change the gears anyway for what it's worth. Thanks Hawkrider. It seemed like a long time you were away!
#9
Yeah, 3 weeks plus. It was a well-needed vacation. Work is going to change again for me in about a month - back to rotating shiftwork. Just when I was starting to enjoy my weekends too.....
#11
I run 15/43, as per another forum member's suggestion (thanks Killer...) - I am strictly a recreational/ stress relief rider, and when I ride it's usually pretty hard (right Hawkrider???). Anyways, that gearing is a rip - particularly when getting aggressive in corners and doing 100mph wheelies, however it does make the 'Hawk a little more OPEC dependant. But then again, perhaps it's the way I ride too - I'm still getting 100 plus mile per tank. I think getting both sprockets and trying out different combos may be the way to go. Enjoy....
#16
for me i just want to reach the over rev point right at the brake marker at the end of the longest straight. the stock gearing is too short to try & keep it in 5th & 6th is too tall. i could go +1 more ( for a -1/+3 ) if i wanted it perfect.
i should go 0/+3 for the street then -1/+3 for the track.
i did buy the vortex set on ebay... last time i got the CAT5 rear & think they suck just as much as the regular ones.
now that i'm getting better at keeping my chain clean i need to spring for good sprockets. even the t6 hardened aluminum don't last long. i'm pretty ham fisted though.
tim
it is cool though to unplug the speedohealer and see over 170mph !!!
i should go 0/+3 for the street then -1/+3 for the track.
i did buy the vortex set on ebay... last time i got the CAT5 rear & think they suck just as much as the regular ones.
now that i'm getting better at keeping my chain clean i need to spring for good sprockets. even the t6 hardened aluminum don't last long. i'm pretty ham fisted though.
tim
it is cool though to unplug the speedohealer and see over 170mph !!!
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