RT fork valves torque...important??? Why?
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Posts: 387
RT fork valves torque...important??? Why?
I want to install my RT Golds tomorrow but don't have access to an inch pound torque wrench. As I see it from all the diagrams and manual, the nut holds the cupped washer down onto a step on the rod. The nut can't go further down. It's getting red loctite...why is it important that it get exactly 30 in/lbs?
I have new seals, oil, dust seals, bushings and guides, and the RT kit. I'd like to finish it in half a day or less.
I have new seals, oil, dust seals, bushings and guides, and the RT kit. I'd like to finish it in half a day or less.
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World Champion
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 105,287
From: Fulton, MO
It's important because:
A) It gives the correct torque for the shim stack
B) The RT valves are aluminum, not sintered iron like the stock valves, and thus can be damaged by overtorquing them.
Do one fork at a time. Make sure both shimstacks are facing down. Are you doing stiffer springs as well, or already have them? I hope so. Which stack do you plan on using?
A) It gives the correct torque for the shim stack
B) The RT valves are aluminum, not sintered iron like the stock valves, and thus can be damaged by overtorquing them.
Do one fork at a time. Make sure both shimstacks are facing down. Are you doing stiffer springs as well, or already have them? I hope so. Which stack do you plan on using?
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Hi Greg.....thanks.
"facing down"? I saw no mention of "facing down" in the instructions...you mean the order of installation? Big ones toward the nut? I got .85 springs...I'm not sure what's in there now as the bike came with a 900lb Eibach spring on the rear (which is now on Reaper's bike...straight trade) and the front is by no means soft...and I weigh 165lbs nekkid.
Stack recommended is c34.
"facing down"? I saw no mention of "facing down" in the instructions...you mean the order of installation? Big ones toward the nut? I got .85 springs...I'm not sure what's in there now as the bike came with a 900lb Eibach spring on the rear (which is now on Reaper's bike...straight trade) and the front is by no means soft...and I weigh 165lbs nekkid.
Stack recommended is c34.
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oh and the HOLE I'm supposed to drill?????
I can do it but Jeez! Location seems to be above the Oring groove on one of the little "clover leaves"...into it's oblong passage. The "instructions" are not clear enough on that.
I can do it but Jeez! Location seems to be above the Oring groove on one of the little "clover leaves"...into it's oblong passage. The "instructions" are not clear enough on that.
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World Champion
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Posts: 105,287
From: Fulton, MO
Yeah, I know. When the entire cartridge is assembled, both shim stacks should be on the bottom of the valves. You didn't say if you're doing compression only or rebound too, so I'm throwing a general statement out there. The check valves go on top.
The hole bypasses the check valve. You have to study the valve carefully to understand how the flow passes through them. The check valve side of the valve body will have a recess in the middle. The shimstack side of the valve will not. It will be flat. Oh, and the size of the hole is very important. If you don't have the right drill bit don't do the install yet.
If you have any more questions you can call me at home tomorrow, but I work until 4pm. PM me if you need further guidance.
The hole bypasses the check valve. You have to study the valve carefully to understand how the flow passes through them. The check valve side of the valve body will have a recess in the middle. The shimstack side of the valve will not. It will be flat. Oh, and the size of the hole is very important. If you don't have the right drill bit don't do the install yet.
If you have any more questions you can call me at home tomorrow, but I work until 4pm. PM me if you need further guidance.
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World Champion
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 105,287
From: Fulton, MO
Here, follow this link:
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/i...showtopic=9493
The VFR forks are VERY similar in construction and this step-by-step will help you. DO NOT do what this guy does and drill the hole in the valve after everything is put back together. Also, use lots of brake parts cleaner and compressed air if you have it. Medical-like cleanliness is important with suspension.
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/i...showtopic=9493
The VFR forks are VERY similar in construction and this step-by-step will help you. DO NOT do what this guy does and drill the hole in the valve after everything is put back together. Also, use lots of brake parts cleaner and compressed air if you have it. Medical-like cleanliness is important with suspension.
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Squid
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 99
From: WA
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ad.php?t=11883
I just did this to. I took some pics, hope they help.
Doug
I just did this to. I took some pics, hope they help.
Doug
Thread Starter
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Superstock
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 387
Thanks again guys....I've prited out both of those threads and have the RT stuff too. I do all my own work and I now have a good idea of the whole process so I should be able to do it in a couple of 3 hours and get those new RC51 brakes and MC on at the same time.
New Pilots this weekend too.........I'll have a hard time not crankin' it over on those new tires......
New Pilots this weekend too.........I'll have a hard time not crankin' it over on those new tires......
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