Alic

After installing new RT-One Jardines today, I think of re-jetting (after reading some posts on the forum I found that while some people do not re-jet, others eventually have problems and do it). I also have K&N and DynoJET kit installed. Question - since I haven't done this before and don't wanna maste a lot of time - how much should re-jetting at a shop cost?

One authorized Honda shop near me wants $170 for the job - but they don't have a dyno. Mechanic says he's done a ton of these, so he can re-jet without dyno no prob. Is this too much to pay for this kinda job?

P.S.: My hawk sounds like a V-8 truck with these new high-mounts.

Alic

Wow people - slow down, don't over-post in this thread, please!

Anyway - a few things I have noticed since new exhaust installation:

- Engine mis-fires once in a while (esp. when driving in a higher gear at low speed - i.e., in 3rd at 30 mph) - never happened with stock exhaust.

- Engine running temperature is higher! (in moderate stop and go traffic it is now 205 degrees, as opposed to 190).

Are these things expected from a free-flowing exhaust upgrade?

Random

Re-jetting can be done without a dyno, of the person doing the jetting is very familar with the bike/engine. Carbureted V-twin sport bikes are rare enough, that it's damn tough to find a guy who can re-jet/tune a SH without a dyno. The bike's just aren't that common, so mechanic's just don't have that much experience... If they don't dyno it, at least find out if they use an Exhaust Gas analyzer to verify their "seat of the pants" tuning method.

If you really want the most for your money, I'd reccomend going with the dyno tuning. Considering how fricking hard/time consuming it is to get to our carbs, the $250-300 is a reasonable price. Having the dyno to backup their claim, and also let you know how much HP/Torque you're putting down is just a bonus.

Alic

Thanks for the input! I doubled my efforts and found a shop that does dyno tuning. He did a great job and tried a multitude of different settings (total 26 adjustments) of the needle and jets. My main emphasis was driveability (smooth operation, right air-to-fuel ratio, no misfires). I attach the dyno results below. As of now, I have main 190 rear jet and 185 front, with the needle at the bottom clip. He also did a few other things, like new spark plugs, change oil (he strongly advised against fully synthetic on Superhawks), synch carbs, clean air filter. I paid 200$. If you're in central FL area and need a mechanic - PM me for contact info - the guy really knows what he's doing.

P.S.: You can click on the photos of the dyno sheets below to make the image a bit bigger, so that the numbers are legible.

Alic

One of my first vs. one of my last runs. What puzzles me is the lower power at a slower speed, than before re-jetting. However, when I rode the bike, it seemed to have more power even at lower speeds, and was way smoother than before. By the way - all the dyno runs were with new Jardines, K&N and jet kit in place - just different jet settings, hence not a large increase in HP.

Alic

Very first and very last runs. In the bottom is air-fuel ratio.

Alic

The only thing I've noticed now after jetting is that tach needle keeps jumping up and down (+-200RPMs) when at idle. The bike rides smooth though, even at low RPMs.

From the last dyno graph (air-fuel ratio), I see that it could be running a bit rich at low RPMs (the graph really doesn't show that part on the left). I have done some online research and found out that running rich may cause the low RPM "needle hunting". I ride mostly in 4k - 6k RPM range daily, so the air-fuel ration suites me there just fine. Should I be worried about this irregular idling phenomenon?

Random

If you could email me higher resolution photos/scans of those dyno's? I can't really make out much there. I must say, It really bugs me when dyno operators put "speed" across the bottom rather than RPM.

If the engine jumps 2000+ RPM at idle, yeah, somethings wrong there. Sounds like you're running WAY to rich at idle. The extra fuel "stacks" up, and eventually causes the "runaway" engine up to 2000+ RPM once it uses the excess fuel, it slows back down again, only to repeat the cycle. They should fix that, as it will make parking lot manuvers next to impossible with a surging engine.

superbling

Random,

It's a 2 Hundred not 2 Thousand!

Alic,

I have some 2bros highmounts and I'm having problems in the 2-3k range which I attribute to leaness (giving it some choke cures it). What did he change on the pilot jets & a/f screws? I'm very near sea level like you.

Thanks,

Doug

Random

Well, 2K would be one wild idle!

Alic

Doug - I think he left pilot stock, but put a comment - "could use larger". Needle's at the bottom clip; float height is stock. I found this link to some post online - maybe you can attempt some of the stuff this guy's talking about: http://titan.runlevelzero.net/piperm...ne/081185.html


Also, from online search, my 2001 SH has "same main jets as previous model years but has 45 pilot jets and the needles are a different part number to previous models." I can't verify if that's correct.

As for my morning starts, it's been bad and stalling often - esp. at traffic lights after hard breaking. I will adjust the idle screw tomorrow and see what it does. Sometimes I wish I stayed stock - never had any issues whatsoever Thanks for your input, guys!

Random

My bike had a problem with stalling when braking to a stop when cold. I did the "TPS mod" and the problem went away.

Alic

I have adjusted the idle screw, and no problems for now. I warm it up with no choke (30 sec at 2500 RPM, then blip throttle periodically, heat up to 110F), then runs fine.

I will try to do the TPS mod sometime - but for now, my erratic idling problem went away.

It's amazing how much more fun it is to ride, when you don't concentrate on little annoyances like misfire, stalling, etc.

Styx

Hi

How come you call this with TPS a mod, is it not an adjustment like say valve clearecnce?

Hawkrider

Wow, really blew the dust off this thread, eh??? But, to answer your question, it is an adjustment, not a mod.

sevhawk

Wow thats a horrible dyno... no offense LOL the numbers are great but the guy doesnt know what consistancy means... he needs to launch the graph at the same rpms, which he didnt for both the comparison runs... he could have done a little better on smoothening the whole graph out.. ur bike might have liked a richer mixture throughout the a/f graph.... that might have cost a lot of more dyno time... but still, he could have done a little better.

Regardless, congrats, got some decent numbers out of her.