Hey guys, I am upgrading my R/R and admittedly electrical is not my strong point. I ended up getting a kit from roadstercycle.com to make it easier on myself but I have an embarrassing question that I need answered. The install will require me to cut the five wire plug from the original harness( going into the old R/R) and connect the three yellow wires into the new provided connector(gray) for the stator( simple enough). I am uncertain what to do with the other 2 wires (a green and a red/white). Do I butt connect these 2 wires to make a circuit or leave them cut and wrapped to prevent shorting? The kit provides the second plug(the black one) for the R/R that goes to the positive and negative battery terminals so I know the 2 wires aren't needed there, but I just want to make sure that I don't disturb some other connection. Thanks for any help you can provide.

 

I think you mean left over wires from the wiring harness that you will no longer use because you are attaching the R/R charge wires directly to the battery now.. YES?
The OEM R/R has a 5 wire plug.. three yellow, and the Red/White and Green wires.

The three yellow wires are the AC unregulated voltage wires from the stator, they can be connected in any order to the new R/R plug.
The other two wires are the charge and ground wires.. .. you COULD connect the new R/R charge wires to these old wires and use the OEM wiring harness.. but I do not recommend it.

You will hear more than one opinion on who to do this. My preference is to bypass the OEM wiring harness for the charge wires and go directly to the battery.
I use 10 ga marine grade tinned wire, splice, solder and heat shrink tube cover a length of wire as long as needed, as short as possible from the R/R to the battery terminals.. Use high quality ring terminals at the battery end either solder them on or use ratcheting crimpers with proper die to correctly crimp the connections in a full 360 deg crimp (so not the cheap plier type crimpers)

Some will add a fuse to the hot 12v charge wire. I do not, yes that means if there is ever a complete short from the MOFSET R/R there is the rare possibility of a fire.
If you wish to add a fuse... use a large pattern ATO style Maxi fuse in a weather resistant holder... put it close to the R/R . Again solder the joints, protect with quality heat shrink tube (I prefer 3M adhesive lined polyolefin tube Product Catalog*3M? Heat Shrink TMW, Adhesive-Lined, Translucent, Semi-Rigid Polyolefin*: Electrical Commercial and Industrial: 3M US )
Mount the fuse holder to keep the wires from chafing and being damaged.

So for those now left over wiring harness green and red/white wires, cut them off and seal the ends.
Use two pieces of heat shrink tube for each wire.

 

Well it seems that when the parts arrived( I posted before they got here) there were instructions that explain what to do with the 2 power wires. They are just to be capped off so as not to short out. I have it mostly set up now, but can't test it until I get a new battery. The unfortunate price of buying something wired generically is that you must find a way to route the excess wire. Not as pretty as it would have been if it were cut to fit the Superhawk, but I will take it.

 

Ah I see, thank you E.Marquez!I had read many threads to find my answer, but it seems that the majority of folks just use the oem wires to power their new R/R. The kit I ordered came with a heavy (10g I believe) positive and ground wire. The positive has a breaker inline. I had been concerned that the 2 original power wires to the R/R might have something else they needed to supply power to, but I guess this is never practiced. I have everything to learn about electrical work.


I did not use the heat shrink (just taped well), but it will be easy enough for me to go back and secure it that way. Thank you for all the info.

 

The OEM R/R charge wires basically "Backfeed" the wiring harness, which down the way is attached to the battery..and therein lies some of the issue... Connecting the R/R directly to the battery will see an increase in voltage directly to the batter vs though the OEM wiring harness.

Same concept is used when we use quality relays to bring battery power directly to the headlights.. That increased voltage will increase light output (at a very small decreased life light span)

 

Very good, thank you again. I will poke around the forum and read up on headlights.

 

Erik is correct in most everything he recommended but maybe a little overkill on component quality for this application though I also solder and heat shrink everything.

As far as the existing pos & neg wires from the old VRR, you can also use them for other circuits. The green wire is a perfect ground for another circuit, and the red/white can supply power to another circuit if you add an in-line fuse to the circuit. Neat thing about DC, the red/white wire was receiving juice from the VRR but since at is other end it is connected through the main switch / fuse to the battery, it is hot only with the ignition on and thus needs no relay for a powered-only-with-ignition-on circuit (if I recall correctly when I did use it and he green wire for another of my 7 or 8 auxiliary power circuits).

 

Not sure what you're implying but I'm interested to hear what components and parts I suggested you would use lesser of?

I suggested quality wire in 10ga, which is appropriate for use based on Sh stator amperage , exposed to heat, the elements, UV light and automotive chemicals. What would you recommend?

I suggested quality terminals either properly crimped or properly soldiered. What would you suggest?

I suggested heat shrink tubing to protect the crimped or soldered joints between the wire insulation and the terminal, I further suggested a common and very basic brand and type to seal that connection from the elements... What you you recomend?

And no, I did not take anything you said poorly...but differing opinions make for good conversation...So please share

 

(See chart below)

12V system the maximum voltage drop should be less than 12 (V) x 3% = 0.36 (V)

Honda VTR1000F alternator output @ 5,000 rpm = 280 watts
280w / 12v = 23.3 amps (13v in-service actual = 21.54 amps)

Voltage Drop = Current x Length x Ohms per foot = 24 amps x 2.25’* x (2.5**/1,000 = .0025) = .135v
.135v / 24a = .0056% =

 

12V system the maximum voltage drop should be less than 12 (V) x 3% = 0.36 (V)

Honda VTR1000F alternator output @ 5,000 rpm = 280 watts
280w / 12v = 23.3 amps (13v in-service actual = 21.54 amps)

Voltage Drop = Current x Length x Ohms per foot = 24 amps x 2.25’* x (2.5**/1,000 = .0025) = .135v
.135v / 24a = .0056% =

 

see attached pdf

 

OK so from all that your implication is 10ga is the overkill part?
And your suggestion that using a wire that is tinned to prevent corrosion is not needed.. cut open some of the OEM wiring that is 10-20 years old anywhere near those connections and see if you hold the same opinion.

Fair enough,, though I use no more than 2% loss not 3% in my wiring designs for a primary power circuit or one that powers lights and other critical components) What is "acceptable" for a manufacture and general use does not equal what is a better design and plan... To each his own.

The run is short choose that the extra 1 up wire size (12ga is the size "required, so I use 10ga on this application) because just like the OEM wiring after time, the wiring will see increased resistance, using a slightly larger wire gauge now has no down sides to the run as the path is easy to make, no appreciable weight or difficulty in install, and no future current load concerns. Absolutely a user could go with 12ga (or 14ga if your ok with 3% voltage loss on the power source for your entire bike)

 

Might want to check that REAL in service voltage again at the MOFSET R/R output wire.. I think you will find it more then 13v